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steve b

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Everything posted by steve b

  1. Definitely a code brown event . Glad you are ok and as you say a very good reminder how quick things can go wrong . Steve b
  2. Galvanising leaves sharp points and edges which is why I always run the loom down the outside of the chassis ... cheers Steve b
  3. will it start by bridging the battery side of the solenoid to the trigger terminal ? (white red wire) If not then either get that one reconditioned at a good auto-electric engineers or as Ralph says put a new one on cheers Steve b
  4. Are all the lash caps in place on the valves and intact ? If so re-do tappet clearances and try it again , you could well have tight clearances as well as the loose ones . Check the rocker shaft posts are located and fully seated too . Let us know how it goes cheers Steve b
  5. Surely real Land Rovers don't need any identity labels? They stand out from all other vehicles anyway 😊 Welcome to the forum btw Steve
  6. Very nice , but you are still a tart 😊 . They do look like it should have been a factory fit , which I like . I think it's time you turned your attention to the 109..... Steve
  7. Another way could be either acquiring a Hi-cap truck cab lower rear section or chopping your 110 tub off . Then you can tray back or what ever takes your fancy ? The 110 is longer from the rear wheel centre to the rear face of the tub as Mo says . Could be an interesting project either way you go . Keep us posted cheers Steve b
  8. It is tight against the steering arm mount , fitting the pipes with the back plate off is the easiest . I've re-done the pipes before to take the feed into the bottom and re-position the bleed nipple to the top - easier to bleed . To answer your question , assuming you can bleed successfully the brake operation will be no different . Some pictures of it and the truck would be nice cheers Steve b
  9. That's what I'm wondering ? out through the inner wing in front of the bulkhead leg ? I do have some spare 300 manifold stuff if that is what is needed Steve b
  10. Have faith dude , I'm sure some sideways thinking will help Good luck and keep us updated Steve
  11. Philistine ,, you'll be talking about servo power next . Have you hung up your pitchfork so soon ? 😊 To Date I've seen one new Pretender on the road .......so fairly exclusive then Steve
  12. Take it out and check continuity again and while it's out crank it one or two turns with engine stop wire disconnected so it doesn't start , drip tray underneath . This is to check the oil is able to flow to the switch and there isn't a plug of oil sludge in there . As peaklander has said check the engine earth points are in place and maybe put a temporary small earth from engine to battery -ve , that said I assume you just earthed the wire to the engine to check the light function so again earth issues seem unlikely ? Steve b
  13. Ooops , most of us have had an oil moment at some point . The switch goes to ground below around 5 psi , so 12v on the white/brown wire with ignition on is good , touch it to earth to check the light works . It sounds like the old switch was not working if the new one has continuity from the terminal to the outer case . One of my more stupid oil moments was not putting the drain plug in and then trying really hard to fill to level on my Trans-am 455 absolutely years ago , boy did I feel stupid ......... cheers Steve b
  14. Yes , the NRC7573 you mention is in fact NRC7578 😉 - it also has an unreadable FV no. so is ex-MOD . I do have more wheels so as and when I come across readable nos. I'll add to it . Steve
  15. Here you go , some pic's 6.5" rims 5.5" 5" All measured with the edge resting on the outer rolled edge of the rim. Steve
  16. There is an excellent thread on the 900Club forum - you need to join to read it - that details all the various offsets for the 6.5" rims and part nos. for all the other rims . There would appear to be at least 3 tube type 5.5" rims by part no. It was linked on here somewhere a while ago and I saved it to favourites - it's title starts with " Buyers guide land-rover super .....etc." Can't do links - sorry . I'll measure some of mine for you tomorrow cheers Steve b
  17. Oz would be my guess, if I was in an area I didn't know well I'd get in touch with the closest 4x4/LR club or group for some pointers to a decent mechanic . Steve b
  18. I am just utterly staggered , Still , that JLR have taken this direction with the new pretender . I think this could be the end of the Land Rover badge Heritage and very possibly the end of Land Rover as a name in the automotive marketplace . ..............the Nurburgring........... FFS It's a Handbag/manbag , nothing more , and scrap at 10 years old or less When I am fully wound up I'll get off the fence Steve
  19. I think that was when the only type was the spotwelded flange in Dave's pic. If the cast type is present then I leave them as is . Great to hear it's sorted Dave cheers Steve
  20. Yes , the tube inside is reliant on the external braid to work , and that is my No.1 suspect . The Hoses fitted are +4" by the look of it and well routed while the springs and shocks are standard. I'll get some pic's when it is off - all 3 will be replaced at the same time . cheers Steve b
  21. Possible , but it really is gentle offroad if at all . I've always thought of these as somewhat tougher than the factory fit rubber ones, once it is off I will take a closer look at it , these sort of failures interest me . cheers Steve b
  22. I've got a 90 on the lift at the moment with a failed Goodridge braided flexible brake pipe on the rear . It's leaking near the chassis mounting . This is a known truck, the hoses went on when it was built 11 years ago , it does less than 3k a year and no extreme off roading , just a bit of shoot life . Standard suspension set up with the flexi mounted and routed well - not chafing anywhere. Thoughts ? cheers Steve b
  23. They probably mean the stub axle , of this and the hub in a wheel bearing meltdown the stub axle usually gets the worst of it . Get the other three wheels checked really well - have them prise the disc brake pads away from the discs to do the bearing check . As mentioned above going to the earlier oil lubricated set up is a big improvement . Have new brake pads fitted on the axle if there is any doubt about the side that let go - they could well be worn at an angle - and ensure the caliper is checked too . Steve b
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