steve b

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Everything posted by steve b

  1. The spring wrapped around the inside of the seal should the be on the oily side of whatever is being sealed - in this case the wheel bearing . I did notice in your pic's in the other thread the seal track on the stub axle looked pretty ropy , a good coating of grease will help make the seal last longer , also have you checked the state of the oil/grease in the CV housing ? - it was a front iirc? cheers Steve b
  2. That's interesting Dave , learnt something on here again ...wandering off a bit , but not the same rules for electric winches ? cheers Steve b
  3. It sounds like the exhaust gasket which is a relatively straightforward and cheap job , I'd do it just to check first . If not then probably the HG . cheers Steve b
  4. What model / year and what sort of transfer box is it ? cheers Steve b
  5. Hi and welcome to LR4x4 The prime suspects would be the rear sliding window runners not draining to the outside and then the roof galv'd section not sealed to the roof panel . The rear quarter windows leak too if the seals fail. That looks a nice truck , how about some more pic's and a little more info ? cheers Steve b
  6. What engine does the IIA have now ? They are one of my favourite Land Rover models , I recently picked up an 88"IIA Hardtop with original diesel to rebuild/preserve , I'll start a thread when the work gets under way . Nice find , looking forward to the pic's cheers Steve b
  7. I've visited a couple of places nearby that use it on large pipework - butt joints around 50mm wide at the top , never had the chance to watch it live though . Do you work in the welding field then Red90 ? It's of endless interest once you get involved Steve b
  8. That looks nice on those 8.25's chicken drumstick , did you get them from L W Vass ? A mate has a set on an old 101 ambulance body which work well enough but look a bit skinny under all that LandRover . Many years ago Staff Dovey had an 80" with a 1t transfer box running on re-cut 900-16 bar grips and fairly low ride height - just high enough to clear the bodywork ...he never seemed to get stuck in that little machine cheers Steve b
  9. I can achieve spray or dip transfer on my 160a snap on single phase in the home workshop - it's just a question of balancing wire speed and amps in one direction or another . Agreed it's easy at work on the end of 500a of Kemppi loveliness on 20mm plate but with a bit of practice it should be possible in a home workshop . What mix is your Ar/CO2 ? somewhere around 5% CO2 should be optimal . cheers Steve b
  10. It should be fine , providing good prep. and technique is applied - as said above vee prep fillet edges to gain full thickness penetration with a good hot root (spray deposition ) then a dip transfer cap , weaving as required . Don't forget the rule of thumb for fillet welds - a 10mm run of 6mm fillet will take a 1t tensile load , so if done well it will be plenty strong cheers Steve b
  11. Good to hear , and original parts retained too cheers Steve b
  12. Is there any form of insulator block between the carb and manifold ? Also , when it stops as you describe how many pumps on the prime lever to get it going ? What happens if you leave it ticking over upon re-start after a run ? cheers Steve b
  13. Thanks , I reckon it's the one then - the picture on Britcar looks right too Steve b
  14. Morning Ralph Could you confirm the part no. for the downpipe for a K / L reg 200 Tdi auto is ESR 2628 ? from Britcar website ? There is no VIN no. as the engine and box are in a LandRover now. TIA Steve b
  15. It could be the chain jumping , or maybe the viscous diff locking , but first check the auto box oil level , warmed up and in park , ticking over ,having been shuttled between D & R . The symptoms suggest oil issues , level and/or quality or possibly a blocked pickup filter Steve b
  16. It could be the transmission brake not releasing fully ? does shudder or clunk when coming to a stop ? Also does it then change up/down through 2/3/4 cleanly? What does the oil on the autobox dipstick smell like ? cheers Steve b
  17. That's why he is going to clean it and inspect it Nick . If all checks out and it was indeed dirt in the taper rollers and it's all smooth with an appropriate amount of backlash and tooth contact there is no reason it should fail . Steve b
  18. I would do that first - it also gives you a chance to look at the outer race rings for the carrier , if all looks good re-assemble with plenty of gear oil and see what you have . If you can dismantle without moving the lockring on the tooth side of the crownwheel you will have an easier time reassembling - knock the roll pin out to allow the cap to lift off leaving the lock nut in place . will be in touch Steve
  19. with a bit of care it is feasible to do it all yourself , it is detailed in the factory workshop manual (got those here ) , the inner taper bearing seat ring can be ground off or buy a set of bearing puller wedge rings . The bearings will almost certainly be available from East Anglia Bearings too . The pinion is 10 tooth . Or get HfH to chuck it together for you ? Really must pop over for a look Steve
  20. It sounds like crud in the taper roller bearings , or flat sided taper rollers , almost certainly rebuild-able given that the gears and splines are in decent shape ,so worth keeping . If memory serves the pinion is 4 splines on early 4.7 : 1 units ? cheers Steve b
  21. Definitely not ok to use gasket sealer on any part of the injector pump , it will get inside and could wreck it cheers Steve b
  22. It's the high current contactors in the end of the solenoid , under the battery cable studs would be my guess , just get a new solenoid if you can find the maker ? or take it to a good auto electric repairer for a new one . cheers Steveb
  23. The Unimog hybrid caught my eye too , I had a quick search but didn't find any thing . It would be good to know more .. cheers Steve b
  24. Yes , but spec'd for the FFR I think , where they would be run on the hand throttle in high ambient temps . For ordinary use it should not be necessary and will suck up HP . A std. set up with all the rad cowling should work very well Steve b
  25. Hi Kevan It sounds unlikely the tyres are at fault in this case . Are all the fixings tight in the steering ? Steering column mountings , column UJ pinch bolts , large nut on the drop arm/shaft , the bolts and support arm for the box itself and then the track-rod pinch bolts and taper retaining nut . Is there side to side body movement when the steering is rocked ? = panhard rod bushes How good is the steering damper ? how much free play is in the steering wheel before the drop arm moves the drag link ( there is an adjuster on the top of the steering box ) ? Is the preload correct on the swivel kingpin's ? cheers Steve b