steve b

Thanks Muddy , noted to favourites ....just in case Steve

Do you have a link or supplier for these? Steve

I don't think you could knock the ugly off that with a wrecking ball........ Should've have built out of the sun under the shade tree , it might(?) have come out differently...

purple is accessory permanent live (interior lights etc.) Green is ignition live for services Steve

Have you got an ignition live at the flasher relay? Steve

That's good news really - simple to fix and a known failure mode so nothing suspicious to be concerned about. Steve

EN9 is a good higher grade and can be heat treated for added hardness once machined/formed etc. Steve

TD5's are likely to be higher mileage at the cheap end , then there is the price of injector servicing, timing chain and the quality of even OEM stuff (AFM's for example) is variable to say the least. Have you stripped the 200 to fully assess for rebuild ? Steve

Can you show us the mods to run links ? Steve

My guess would be spiralling insurance costs for play day style events, it's the reason a couple of places here in the east have shut to "open" events. Private event hire still happens (usually by invitation to known clients) Steve

That 3 degree's of advance makes all the difference, good to hear it's all good Steve

I would say it's retarded by the sound of the running description ? Is the pump body central on the slots? One other thing to check is the engine stop lever, with no cable and/or return spring it can be partially shut off if not back against the stop. There is a plate on the side of the pump body (2 hex 5/16" head ) that has a pointer and a timing mark on the rotor too but my WSM does not show it Steve

I saw his TR7 (on RRC running gear/chassis) race at Peters Pit AWDC years ago . I liked the Strange Rover too. Steve

Too subtle then, never mind eh

...no point in putting new ones in , just rip the engine out and bin the exhaust. Drain the tank and refill with the correct fuel If the block is cracked it's usually along the section directly under the manifolds. Steve

Agree entirely on the variable quality with replacement springs and dampers . Now you have mentioned the police spec I do remember you mentioning that before. Having built a few RRC's from the chassis up it is surprising just how much mass goes on at the final finish build stage . Steve

They've been putting the time in , that has moved on a whole lot. Is it on the original springs? It looks quite high, although it is still in build so more to add yet. Do you have a first road trip in mind yet? Steve

I know someone with a LWB Santana over in southern Spain , that has a 2.5N/A Rover diesel. The rear brakes are 11" Rover SLS drums , not sure what the fronts are. Leaf sprung with a Rover rear diff and anti-roll bar. Transmission is LT230/LT77. Not sure about the steering box arrangement either. The owner has said there seems to be little knowledge or parts listings locally for him which seems odd as Santana started a long while ago. My thoughts are more local research on parts and mechanical details along with body types (and material - GRP or ally) before jumping in. It may turn out that an Iveco 4x4 van/truck might be a better choice? Welcome to the forum too - lots of camper builds on here to whet your appetite.... Steve

Shared knowledge does it again Nice one Ian Steve

Good to hear it's done the job. By all means hang around and carry on posting pic's Steve

Good to see you here again. The main thing with any engine change or upgrading the current engine is cost against the financial gain in fuel consumption. I sort of still fall on optimising what you have for best economy including tyres that are narrow and entirely road based to reduce drag. In line with that I would say a low boost supercharger might suit your goal for this. @Nonimouse has experience of forced air induction on 4 cyl. petrol engines I think Steve

Probably, but my Tdci experience is limited , not sure there is any other mix point? maybe someone else can chime in ? Good call on draining the oil to check it Steve

The oil around the rocker cover joint is the seal - they do benefit from a small bead of gasket seal in the groove of the cover before fitting the seal , That turbo oil feed leak is it , very hot there so the oil burning off will stink. The washer should be copper or aluminium top and bottom of the banjo. Blanking all the holes from cab to under bonnet or outside is top of the list too , even if it's just duck tape to start with. I like the double cab with just 2 doors , looks very useful and great pic's , thanks. Steve

that's why I said disconnect the turbo to inlet hence removing either excessive breather delivered oil or failed turbo seals, there's not much else to provide engine oil into the inlet, you may be right that it just picked up resting oil from the intercooler built up over time but that too will be isolated. I always have something solid to block the inlet manifold should it take off when doing this test , just in case..... Steve