steve b

that's why I said disconnect the turbo to inlet hence removing either excessive breather delivered oil or failed turbo seals, there's not much else to provide engine oil into the inlet, you may be right that it just picked up resting oil from the intercooler built up over time but that too will be isolated. I always have something solid to block the inlet manifold should it take off when doing this test , just in case..... Steve

If there is oil in the sump and it turns over ok then trying a re-start with the inlet disconnected from the turbo to isolate the turbo oil leak (and boost) if it has failed should give a decent indication of the rest of the engine state. Was the ignition already off when it stopped "on it's own"? If so that is positive suggesting only a small amount of oil to self fuel , bloody scary when it does happen speaking from experience... Steve

Is everything else normal ? Smoke when driving? fluid leaks anywhere? Normal boost? The seam weld on the exhaust downpipe does rust through with age causing pinprick holes right under the cabin area. Diesel leaking should be obvious , but check around the inj. pump and the wading drain bung hole at the bottom of the timing belt housing. I doubt winter diesel additive would cause any issues Some pic's of your truck in the vast space and skies of Montana would be great Steve

Turners list this as ERC8450 for late 5mb 2.25 and 2.5 diesel. The earlier 3mb 2.25 is 568335 Beru are a good brand. Steve

A few drops left will be fine I'd say , top tip if the head ever comes off again is to remove the block drain then there will be no coolant above the block face. A check of the oil colour after a minute running will confirm oil condition. Steve

Even more interesting then , there were a lot of Land Rovers sold to nearby countries for civil utilities/services and military use - it was covered in "The Last Overland" on TV recently but I can't recall which country it was.... Steve

That's interesting, I thought Falcon's was probably a one off but that looks the same and would appear to be in Oz? Steve

It'll be fine, you were on the ball with the first start up safety. Another step being done eh Steve

Haha , they have the strangest price list system(?) ever - I spotted the rubber 4mm bore turbo to actuator pipe for a 300 listed as £113 +VAT genuine....it's about 80mm long and was fixed with standard rubber pipe Don't write them off completely , things like coil springs and dampers are priced more realistically Steve

Was there much of a price difference between those and genuine? Steve

Welcome to the forum. I don't have any info on your question but @Arjan might have some insight. @Eightpot may also have advice with Africa to Europe imports. Steve

That's possible and easy to get to That could explain the hazards too? Steve

The quality of bulb fit with replacement light units is variable to say the least , glad you found it Steve

The other common point is the earth connection to the inner wing ? If the wiring loom is not clipped up (or broken clips) it can chafe too Steve

Oil pumps move more than one would expect , again from hard bitten experience , thankfully mostly in my (very) younger years but it's hard to forget an oil lake under the 4 poster.... Steve

Painting the block a bright colour is a good thing - as your pic's show - any oil shows up really well. Still a simple fix Ian and looks a cracking build. That oil leak is the supply to the top end so the fact the top was not dry shows your oil pump is tip-top too Steve

That would do it and so much simpler than an upside down HG Steve

From memory it does, there's a tab on the HG with holes in to indicate thickness, again from memory without going to workshop to look it should be behind the inj. pump , as Nick says whatever it is , it's oil under delivery pressure. If it's the wrong way up there will also be a square corner sticking out where the block/head are angled...again from memory ...this sort of thing gets shoved away in the darker archives eh haha Steve

Head gasket on the correct way round? (don't ask how I might have seen this...) Steve

I doubt it , that amount of backlash is normal Steve

The first place to look is the rear axle ball joint - the A frame ball joint , then the prop bolts and then rear suspension bushes Steve

Flux paste usually does it when the wires are a bit old and tarnished. Steve

Have you spoken to Fieldens ? They certainly used to regularly import specialist tyres from the USA.

do let us know how you get on Steve

Welcome to the forum, With the hassle bleeding it I'd say the MC has failed. I'd replace both if you can - TRW are ok A stuck clutch means the drive plate is stuck to the flywheel and can often be freed with some careful driving with the pedal held down and some on/off throttle. See what it's like with a new MC Steve