bill van snorkle

Unfortunately the stubshaft is about 3 inches too long for my application.

Thanks Dave, I'll give KAM a miss then. You don't make 23/24 spline female/ female cv's by any chance?

Well thankyou for the welcome gentlemen. Quite a nice, friendly and informative forum you have going here. I have spent a couple of evenings reading many of the older threads. Yes I like to change aliases. don't know why, just do. Michele, I don't have any photos of my truck although many have been taken over the years. There is a photo of one of its back wheels on the ''portal'' thread on about page 70 of this forum though. Back on topic. KAMs website doesn't make any claims about their CV's being stronger. Just mention that their fusable stub shafts prevent cv breakage. Would be interested to hear from anyone who has used them in anger. regards.

Thanks Ben. I just discovered this forum by chance when following the ''twist off gone wrong'' link from another site.

Similar but not quite Dolly. I have home made portals on modded Rover axles. When making them up I required cv's with a very short 24 spline stub shaft so chopped the stub off Toyota ones and welded on the female spline from a Salsbury diff side gear to make what essentially KAM now produce commercially. My friends however will be happy to know that replacement cv's are available for their Volvo axles. How about a solution to worn out tie rod ends? particularly the double one for left side on RHD vehicles.

Anyone here have experience with the KAM 24/23 spline female/female cv joint with fusable stubshafts? I modified Toyota cv's to be like that for my front portal boxes, and they have held up fine, but would like an off the shelf option if they were stronger.

Why does LandRover have to resort to using these types of sealants to reduce oil leaks? The Japs don't. The only success I have had removing TDI sumps in situ without destroying them is to ignore the factory workshop manual instructions. You cannot work a sharp blade around the joint with all the carp in the way. Just cook the sealant all the way round with oxy acetelene or a portable butane torch and then the sump can be prized away quite easily.

The plug that secures the detent spring and ball (just behind the difflock light switch) may have been screwed in too far. try backing it off a little with a longish 6 mm allen key. Another possibility is that the short flat difflock lever on top of the output housing has been fitted the wrong way around.

When one looks at a Humvee in the flesh it is difficult to imagine a vehicle so relatively wide and low losing stability in that type of situation.

Every time I have tried tubeless offroad tyres I was always bugged with slow leaks due to clumps of mud, stones,tree bark etc getting between the bead and rim at low tyre pressures. I always use tubes now on Silverstones, Superswampers and Simex, but a couple of tube failures with sudden deflation at 30/40mph got really frightening, so now I glue the tube valve stems to the rim with silastic so that if the tyre is punctured it will deflate more slowly like a normal tubeless tyre.

Thankyou for the info RPR and Dollythelw. will pass it on to a couple of 303 axled vehicle owners I know. I looked at fitting McNamara 35 spline type or landy 101 spindles, custom bottom axles and bored out 110 hubs to 303 boxes once for the possibility of discs and free wheel hubs, but couldn't get the wheel offsets within legal limits. Bill Van Snorkle.

I've played that video 14 times already, and I still failed to find the Hummer connection. Oh well one more try!

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum.Have lurked on others though.Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Dolly, Could you say how much backspacing on a 303 rim is required to clear those calipers? When I looked at doing a similar conversion a while back I couldn't see how it could be done legally over here in Oz. (maximum permitted track increase 2'') Did the ''Rover'' conversion use Rover hubs and spindles? If so axle size would be a bit small. Cheers,Bill Van Snorkle.