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v8bobber

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  1. Hi all I have recently bought a Td5 Disco which isn't running right in that it will not rev past about 2500-3000 rpm. I have changed the injector loom and cleared out the oil in plugs as this needed doing anyway and changed the fuel filter too. I have checked the ECU and there is no oil in it. The vehicle starts and idles nicely and it is only when you try to take the revs past 2500 then it plays up. From much Googling it seems that it could either possibly be the wastegate modulator or the fuel pump on its way out. I have a nanocom which shows no faults stored. Any experiences of this? Cheers, Dave
  2. I am thinking that I might have a problem with the wastegate modulator on my Disco Td5. I know it's only £20 for a new one but seems pointless changing it without seeing that it not working properly first. Is It possible to bypass the modulator to see if it is doing its thing or not? Or will that cause it to go into limp home mode? Dave
  3. Hi, I recently bought a second hand Van Aaken "smart box" and although it looks in good condition I have not been given any fitting instructions by the owner. I know that this particualar box (quite an old one) fits by splicing into the wiring but that's as far as my research has got me. Has anyone got a wiring diagram / fitting instructions for this smartbox? Or possibly one in place that they could note the wiring for me? Hope someone can help
  4. Hi, I done the "search" thing and can't seem the find the answers I am looking for. I am interested having a go at winch challenge events or similar but all the events I have seen seem to be geared up for expensive and modified machines. I spoke to someone linked to the winch scene last week and they advised that I would need 37" tyres, hardened shafts, cage (naturally), twin winches etc etc. Is there not series of events that follows a more "standard" route, with perhaps a limit to tyre size. It would be nice to have a relatively standard 90 with cage and limited mods that I can use for the occasional trialling and winch type events. Do such events exist, or am I looking at having to dive in at the deep end. Dave
  5. They aren't Land Rover springs, i'm sure of that. Yes I know this is LR4x4 forum but I was hoping that someone here might have an idea of a starting point. This is usually the best place for tech problems! Dave
  6. Hi, A mate of mine has a trialler, which is a most definate "bitsa" unfortunately it's getting on a bit, and he broke a rear coil spring at the weekend. We are now trying to identify what vehicle the spring came from, or at least how I could find a replacement. I know that the springs are approximately 5.25 inches across, he reckons about 16" long and the coils are about 10mm thick I am still trying to find out how many coils there are over it's length, Any ideas? Dave
  7. Hi, I have posted on here recently in relation to the different types of engine and the relationship between them and their respective ECUs. I had a 10p engine and was sent a replacement 2nd hand engine which is also has a 10p engine number. However when looking at the replacement engine it appears that the head is different in that it has the head with the enternal fuel rail. From doing some "googling" it seems that this is a later "EU3" head? Would anyone know if this is right? The next question is, if this is the later type engine then does this mean I have to have the later ECU aswell as through previous research, I know that the later engine will not work with the earlier ECU Hope someone can assist Dave
  8. Hi all Tried to get onto the above website after seeing it mentioned in a magazine (was from 2010 mind). The link wouldn't work so I'm wondering whether its just an internet problem or whether the company is still trading. Dave
  9. I think it looks great. Not too sure about the "dame edna everage" rear lights though Dave
  10. That is encouraging. So to summarise then, ANY Td5 will run with ANY ECU as long as I take it to the man with the machine down the road and get it plugged in? Dave
  11. Hi, Thanks for the information. If it is that easy then great! There is a garage down the road which I think has all the kit to do the work. It's literally a half a mile tow down there, or will it run after a fashion? I have heard about injector numbers etc, do you have to physically read the numbers off the injectors or would the garages equipment be able to read this Dave
  12. Hi, I have a 110 with an early "10p" type engine. I can get hold of a later "15p" engine. Will I have any compatibility issues? The ECU is what concerns me most Regards, Dave
  13. I guess the engine number part of it will remain a mystery. It was used by a tree surgeon at one point and his number is still stencilled in the door so I could always give him a ring as I think it's them who have given it the "ten years younger" treatment by putting a galv chassis under it along with the 300tdi and r380. Im quite attached to it so it would be a shame to cast aspersions on its character..... Bizarrely the biggest problem I have now is prising the keys out of my other halfs hands. Who's have thought a 25 year old hi-cap would have so much attraction?! Thanks again Dave
  14. Well, mystery solved. Si, you are right. It looks as if there is a cosha 300tdi but with the original engine number stamped in it. As pointed out, apart from the "J" being on a bit of a gimp. It seems pretty believable. It didn't help the fact that the block is painted red, as per the original 2.5D. I ended up searching through the 90/110 workshop manual and then browsing online at various tdi pictures. I will post what I have found as it might help others.... The easiest way i've found to identify the type is by looking at the manifold side of the engine The picture below is of the 2.5 turbo diesel. It differs from the 2.5 na diesel by having the bolt arrangement (1 blanked and 3 threaded holes near to it) near to the left hand (front) core plug. Below these are the oil pipe unions for the turbo etc, as pointed out by Snagger which aren't on the 2.5na block either. Also, the "face" of this side of the engine where the core plugs are is relatively flat, whereas on the 300tdi........ as mentioned again by Snagger the contours tend to follow the cylinders. The other difference is the presence of additional threaded holes in the block (to the right of the red blanks in the above picture) which are for the 300tdi engine mountings which is only present on these engines. So I can breath easy with regards to having a proper engine, although I still don't know which bloody fanbelt to order. I guess I'll have to order both types and put the "wrong" one on ebay Thanks again Dave
  15. Had a further look and it appears the engine number is the same as the one that is on the logbook. I should have explained that this is an old 110 which was rebuilt at some point in its life with a galv chassis. It had a 2.5na diesel as an original fitment. Either someone has put a 300tdi in it and gone to the effort of stampIng the original engine number in it, or have altered the block to fit the later 300tdi head, turbo and ancillaries. The only thing I can think of is try to find out from someone what features are unique to the 300tdi block to positively identify it..... Any ideas? Dave
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