v8bobber

Hi all I have recently bought a Td5 Disco which isn't running right in that it will not rev past about 2500-3000 rpm. I have changed the injector loom and cleared out the oil in plugs as this needed doing anyway and changed the fuel filter too. I have checked the ECU and there is no oil in it. The vehicle starts and idles nicely and it is only when you try to take the revs past 2500 then it plays up. From much Googling it seems that it could either possibly be the wastegate modulator or the fuel pump on its way out. I have a nanocom which shows no faults stored. Any experiences of this? Cheers, Dave

I am thinking that I might have a problem with the wastegate modulator on my Disco Td5. I know it's only £20 for a new one but seems pointless changing it without seeing that it not working properly first. Is It possible to bypass the modulator to see if it is doing its thing or not? Or will that cause it to go into limp home mode? Dave

Hi, I recently bought a second hand Van Aaken "smart box" and although it looks in good condition I have not been given any fitting instructions by the owner. I know that this particualar box (quite an old one) fits by splicing into the wiring but that's as far as my research has got me. Has anyone got a wiring diagram / fitting instructions for this smartbox? Or possibly one in place that they could note the wiring for me? Hope someone can help

Hi, I done the "search" thing and can't seem the find the answers I am looking for. I am interested having a go at winch challenge events or similar but all the events I have seen seem to be geared up for expensive and modified machines. I spoke to someone linked to the winch scene last week and they advised that I would need 37" tyres, hardened shafts, cage (naturally), twin winches etc etc. Is there not series of events that follows a more "standard" route, with perhaps a limit to tyre size. It would be nice to have a relatively standard 90 with cage and limited mods that I can use for the occasional trialling and winch type events. Do such events exist, or am I looking at having to dive in at the deep end. Dave

They aren't Land Rover springs, i'm sure of that. Yes I know this is LR4x4 forum but I was hoping that someone here might have an idea of a starting point. This is usually the best place for tech problems! Dave

Hi, A mate of mine has a trialler, which is a most definate "bitsa" unfortunately it's getting on a bit, and he broke a rear coil spring at the weekend. We are now trying to identify what vehicle the spring came from, or at least how I could find a replacement. I know that the springs are approximately 5.25 inches across, he reckons about 16" long and the coils are about 10mm thick I am still trying to find out how many coils there are over it's length, Any ideas? Dave

Hi, I have posted on here recently in relation to the different types of engine and the relationship between them and their respective ECUs. I had a 10p engine and was sent a replacement 2nd hand engine which is also has a 10p engine number. However when looking at the replacement engine it appears that the head is different in that it has the head with the enternal fuel rail. From doing some "googling" it seems that this is a later "EU3" head? Would anyone know if this is right? The next question is, if this is the later type engine then does this mean I have to have the later ECU aswell as through previous research, I know that the later engine will not work with the earlier ECU Hope someone can assist Dave

Hi all Tried to get onto the above website after seeing it mentioned in a magazine (was from 2010 mind). The link wouldn't work so I'm wondering whether its just an internet problem or whether the company is still trading. Dave

I think it looks great. Not too sure about the "dame edna everage" rear lights though Dave

That is encouraging. So to summarise then, ANY Td5 will run with ANY ECU as long as I take it to the man with the machine down the road and get it plugged in? Dave

Hi, Thanks for the information. If it is that easy then great! There is a garage down the road which I think has all the kit to do the work. It's literally a half a mile tow down there, or will it run after a fashion? I have heard about injector numbers etc, do you have to physically read the numbers off the injectors or would the garages equipment be able to read this Dave

Hi, I have a 110 with an early "10p" type engine. I can get hold of a later "15p" engine. Will I have any compatibility issues? The ECU is what concerns me most Regards, Dave

I guess the engine number part of it will remain a mystery. It was used by a tree surgeon at one point and his number is still stencilled in the door so I could always give him a ring as I think it's them who have given it the "ten years younger" treatment by putting a galv chassis under it along with the 300tdi and r380. Im quite attached to it so it would be a shame to cast aspersions on its character..... Bizarrely the biggest problem I have now is prising the keys out of my other halfs hands. Who's have thought a 25 year old hi-cap would have so much attraction?! Thanks again Dave

Well, mystery solved. Si, you are right. It looks as if there is a cosha 300tdi but with the original engine number stamped in it. As pointed out, apart from the "J" being on a bit of a gimp. It seems pretty believable. It didn't help the fact that the block is painted red, as per the original 2.5D. I ended up searching through the 90/110 workshop manual and then browsing online at various tdi pictures. I will post what I have found as it might help others.... The easiest way i've found to identify the type is by looking at the manifold side of the engine The picture below is of the 2.5 turbo diesel. It differs from the 2.5 na diesel by having the bolt arrangement (1 blanked and 3 threaded holes near to it) near to the left hand (front) core plug. Below these are the oil pipe unions for the turbo etc, as pointed out by Snagger which aren't on the 2.5na block either. Also, the "face" of this side of the engine where the core plugs are is relatively flat, whereas on the 300tdi........ as mentioned again by Snagger the contours tend to follow the cylinders. The other difference is the presence of additional threaded holes in the block (to the right of the red blanks in the above picture) which are for the 300tdi engine mountings which is only present on these engines. So I can breath easy with regards to having a proper engine, although I still don't know which bloody fanbelt to order. I guess I'll have to order both types and put the "wrong" one on ebay Thanks again Dave

Had a further look and it appears the engine number is the same as the one that is on the logbook. I should have explained that this is an old 110 which was rebuilt at some point in its life with a galv chassis. It had a 2.5na diesel as an original fitment. Either someone has put a 300tdi in it and gone to the effort of stampIng the original engine number in it, or have altered the block to fit the later 300tdi head, turbo and ancillaries. The only thing I can think of is try to find out from someone what features are unique to the 300tdi block to positively identify it..... Any ideas? Dave

Yes I did think that too. I don't suppose that there's anyone out there with a 12j engine to see what their engine number looks like? I would also like to find out definitively if it's possible to put the later 300 Tdi parts on the earlier block? If not then I'm guessing the original number must have been overstamped for some reason?

Hi, Thanks for the replies, I have checked again today in the hope that I had misread it somehow but no, definitely starts 12J. I will add a picture to see if this will assist. I have also taken a couple of each side of the engine. Hopefully this will assist. Thanks in advance, Dave

Hi, I recently bought a 300tdi 110. Today I have looked at the block in order to get the engine number off it and despite having the obvious external parts of a 300tdi, The block says 12J on it which if I remember correctly is a N/A diesel block. I know that they are similar blocks but would this mean that the "old" block would not be up to the job in hand? It looks to me as if the bits of a Tdi have been bolted on the na block, should i be worried? Dave

Hi All, Has anyone been on the factory tour? We're going to visit relatives up there at some point this year and fancied treating myself to a late birthday present. Would be nice to hear if anyone's been and what they thought of it. It does appear quite expensive but not the type of thing i'm likely to do again! Dave

Hi all, I am in the process of changing the steering linkage (between the steering column and the steering box) and whilst there I want to take the adjust the steering box in order to take the play out. The problem i'm having is that the lock nut and the adjustment "screw" (allen headed) are siezed together so its not possible for me to adjust anything. I don't want to do it later as i've taken the intercooler hoses off to do it. What I need to know is if I can take the adjustment screw / nut out completely so I can free them up in the vice. I don't want to take it out and find that a load of springs / ball bearings spring out! Hope someone knows the answer, Regards Dave

Hi all, I am in the process of changing the steering linkage (between the steering column and the steering box) and whilst there I want to take the adjust the steering box in order to take the play out. The problem i'm having is that the lock nut and the adjustment "screw" (allen headed) are siezed together so its not possible for me to adjust anything. I don't want to do it later as i've taken the intercooler hoses off to do it. What I need to know is if I can take the adjustment screw / nut out completely so I can free them up in the vice. I don't want to take it out and find that a load of springs / ball bearings spring out! Hope someone knows the answer, Regards Dave

P38 v Classic........ I've had both too and they're both special for different reasons but similarly you do feel that you are driving something special no matter which one you drive. Thinking back i spent more time looking after the Classic that i've had to with the P38 (touch wood) The issues I had with the classic (was a '94 Tdi) were mostly metalwork related; rear boot floor, sills, rear chassis and various other little bits like window frames and the like. The Tdi was a brilliant engine, fairplay to it. 30mpg at least, inlcuding when towing a trailer. Alot of the electrics and plastics were fragile mind. My P38 (diesel/manual)has no bodywork issues at all and could be happily described as "mint", i have had minor issues with other items though. Two of the blend motors have been replaced and I have changed all the air springs and shocks as the rear ones were looking a bit ropey. I changed the steering joints the other week along with the steering arms and I replaced all the discs and pads for piece of mind. I've learnt that the "secret" of P38 ownership is to buy the best you can afford and keep right on top of the maintenance. I've kind of resigned myself that it may cost me a little more to keep to up to scratch but I still consider it alot of car for the money. The P38 does pretty much everything I need of it and am still pleased with it. The lure of a L322 grows stronger by the day mind! I don't actually find it that slow either. I certainly find it a step up from the Tdi. When I first got it I found that I was sitting for ages at low revs because of used to having the Tdi have all the torque low down and trickling away at idle. The Tdi is probably my favourite LR engine. I just found that I had to adjust my driving style somewhat with the P38. I do find having to slip the clutch on a steep hill with the trailer on a bit embarrassing mind. I've resorted to using low box! I think that because the P38 is so refined, it feels slower than it actually is. Dave

Hi all, I have recently taken ownership of a Series one which needs a fair amount of work to be done to it until it is roadworthy again. On previous vehicles I have welded patches onto the chassis and my welding is of a fairly good standard, however, on this occasion, I would like to be able to "flush" weld new metal into the chassis in order to leave an invisible repair. I had it in my mind that I could make an accurate template of the area that needed plating and simply seam weld aaround it but I was told yesterday that I should possibly by "joddling" or "joggling" round the edges. However, from all the ones that I have seen, the will only deal up to metal that is up to 1.2mm thick which is obviously far less than Land Rover chassis thickness. Is anyone well versed in this type of repair? Was I correct in thinking that I can simply seam weld a plate in, or is there some other technique that I am not aware of? Regards, Dave

Thanks all, The axles would be going on a Series one which is too far gone to keep original. Plan is to put a Tdi in it and dont fancy the idea of running it through a SWB axle. I would have to modify the axles anyway to fit to the narrow rear springs on the series one so this would not be an issues. A nice spin off would be the bigger brakes. Thanks again Dave

Hi All, I'm looking on ebay at the moment with regards to using the remains of a LWB petrol series 3 to upgrade a series truck. Long story. I have it in my head that the LWB Series trucks had a heavy duty rear axle. Does anyone know if that's the case. I seem to remember that they also had bigger brakes? Anyone care to shed any light on the subject? Regards, Dave