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The Suffolk Ram

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by The Suffolk Ram

  1. Hi all When I brought my 200tdi it had a faulty odometer (only the ones digit worked so it only read from 100,000 - 100,009 before cycling round again). At the time I put the repair on my to-do list and never got round to it. I checked the MOT records online and found it been broken since at least 2003. I've now installed a new td5 speedo unit and need to change the mileage reading, but I’m just debating what I should get it changed to, the way I see it, I have four options: a) The last reading on my current speedo, 100,007 b) The last reading on my current speedo, plus the mileage I know I’ve done on it (16,092) for a total of 116,099 c) For the unknown years before I brought it between 2003 and 2009 add an average mileage (12,000) for each year along with my mileage for a total of 186,099 d) Just don’t worry about it! I'm not sure how this sits legally, if at all. It might also be worth noting its had a new engine in with an unknown mileage on it. Anybody have any thoughts? Cheers TSR
  2. Thanks for your reply. I’ve not done a lot of car wring jobs like this, so I’m just a bit paranoid about getting it wrong! I now feel more confident, I think I will still try and track down the wires to the fuse box with the multi-meter to be 100% sure and completely put my mind to rest. But I do appreciate all the help I’ve had on this forum! Thanks for your help!
  3. Yeah, I’m just slightly thrown by the difference in wire size (it’s a noticeable difference) on the feeds, with the permanent being bigger than the ignition. But looking at the wire on the old loom I took out, that appears a normal size. I’m beginning to wonder if the wire been replaced at some point or they used a thicker grade for some reason when it was built. Does the td5 dash really draw that much current? It seems quite excessive! When you fitted yours, did you use the existing wire? or did you run a new length in?
  4. That’s exactly what happened to mine, it been acting odd for a couple of days, went to work one morning, didn't notice the large puddle of oil underneath, drove about 10 miles and BAM! The engine started overrunning. It was indeed the turbo seal, oil got into the cylinders, increasing RPM, and gut reaction was to kill the ignition, which didn't do anything, so I stalled it like you did. Unfortunately when it got took back to the garage, massive internal damage had been done to the engine and I had to fit a new one, I Hope that not what’s happened to yours! (although it sounds you stopped your quicker than mine, so it hopefully be fine) Ironically the one part of the engine that survived the best was the turbo!
  5. Hello I started fitting my new dash, and am in the process of identifying all the wires behind the dash. I've found a rubber connector with 9 points on it, the rough pinout is as follows ( '( )' indicates a female connection and 'o' a male). 1--2---3--4--5 ( ) ( ) o ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) o 6---7--8--9 I've managed to work out the wiring is as follows 1 = switch feed from sidelight for gauge lighting 2 = constant 12v (Really fat wire) 3 = earth (also very fat) 4 = switched 12v from ignition, has a seconded short length of wire with what look like a bullet style connector 5 = constant 12v 6 = Fuel gauge sender 7 = temp gauge sender 8 = earth 9 = unknown I trying to figure out what fuse the lives are rated too, as pin 4 wire seems a lot smaller then the constant at pin 2. I’m concerned as the diagram I’m following recommends the switched live be 10amp and constant be 5 each. I don’t want to connect up the new dash and start a fire! I tried looking at the fuse panel, and what it shows does not seem to tally with the actual fuses behind it. I've also tried tracing the actual wire, but finding with my colour blindness it a real struggle to ID the wire colours. I've look at the Haynes 'Book of lies' Manual at the wiring diagrams and can't fathom that out either. My next step was to try using a multi-meter and remove each fuse one-by-one till I found the circuit I needed, although it now getting too dark to work so will have to attempt that tomorrow. Does anyone know what amp fuse the wiring is connected to? I’m also curious to know what the unknown pin does on my connecter. It has a wire coming off but it is not live. Thanks in advance, I’ve been trying to fathom this off and on over the last 2 days as any help would be most appreciated Cheers P.S. forgot to mention, its a '93 200tdi 90 pick-up
  6. Sorry, I should have said it's a 200tdi that i'm fitting the dash to, i was under the impression that the fuel sender wires goes straight from the sender to the back of the dash, but i don't know much about 200tdi wiring. Ah, that make sense, as long as i'm not reading the RAVE diagram wrong, that how i will wire it
  7. HI I've going to be making my own harness for a TD5 dashboard, i been spending the last couple of days using a combination of Haynes, RAVE and this guide: http://www.retroanac...g%20Diagram.pdf to work out how the loom wiring all connects together, but I’ve come across something that does not look right. In the RAVE, the fuel earth (slate-black) appears to come into the loom on pin 7, only for it to simply connect to the earth leaving at pin 9 (the same earth that connects to the Fuel, Temp and speedo gauge). Is this correct? it seems odd for the fuel sender earth to have to go all the way to the dash loom simple to be earthed elsewhere. Also, Where i need multiple wires coming off one pin (such as the gauge illumination) i was planning on running one main wire (such as between the connecter plug and the speedo) and tap-soldering into it, will this be ok? I don’t know how land rover actually do it in the proper looms. I've attached the wiring diagram i have made so far, i think it's all correct, but it has been compile from multiple sources Cheers
  8. Thank you for your offer, unfortunately i have already butchered the inside of my defender wiring and fitted a multiplug from vehicle wiring products, so don’t fancy rewiring it again! I've decided to build my own harness for the dash, and will be doing next week once all the parts have arrived. But thanks for the offer anyway!
  9. I think I’ve managed to find something that will fit: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-accessories/0336104/ Looking at the spec, it appears to be roughly the right size to fit in the dash, it does use LED instead but no major issue for me. I managed to find the lamp holder for the fuel/temp gauge (part YAJ100390), I will connect to them using spade connector in a housing to make it more weather proof, likewise the same for the spade on the back of the gauges. Finally I located these: http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=M-53-1&category=ISO%20Connectors&section=CAR%20AUDIO Looks to be about the right size to fit into the speedo. after that all i need is a shed load of wiring, a multiway connector for the other end (going to use the same as Retroanaconda used in his 'fitting a td5 dash' so I can carry on following it for the rest of the fitting) I think that covers everything! I'm now kind of glad I had issues, as otherwise I would not have started going down this route. Won’t know if it all works till I try building it and seeing if it fits in but that all part of the fun!
  10. That exactly what I’m after Retroanaconda, I’m installing a TD5 dash in a 200tdi (i was actually inspired by your online guide). No reply yesterday, so going to give them a ring today, but I’m not hopeful. So yesterday evening i started working out how to build my own harness, i've managed to locate all the parts i need except for the bulb holder for the heated illumination controls (anyone know the part number?). i reckon I’ll be able to do it for about £20-30. a lot cheaper then the £130 for a new row spec loom!
  11. Hi SO here’s the story, I’m in the process of upgrading my 200tdi dash to a td5 dash, i have been getting the parts from over the web and managed to find a wiring loom on landysparepart.com. So I ordered it and waited.... and waited.... and waited some more. When I received nothing, i went on their website and low and behold, the part is now out of stock, they didn’t bother to e-mail me about this, so i guessed it was probably a minor delay, so i gave them another week (I should point out they’ve took the money out of my account for this order). After still no part or response, i decide to contact them, i sent an polite email via their website asking them what the issue was, after hearing nothing after a couple of days I sent another e-mail. Well that was last week, so today I sent another e-mail (slightly less polite, but not rude), but I don’t reckon I’ll hear anything. Has anyone had any experience using this company? do they normally have this bad customer service? I’m now in the process of researching on building my own wiring loom as I don’t think I’m going to get one, I’ve got the wiring diagram for it, just need to find the connectors for the Speedo and bulbs
  12. Right update. The UJs feel pretty solid, tried WD-40 on all the joints and it was a lot better almost back to normal, what should i use to do a proper greasing job? i've got some thick stuff i used on the backs of my brake pads to stop them sticking, would that do? or should i just use the WD them whenever it gets heavy? Hopefully once i've sorted this and got the fuel guage working agian after the tank swap i'll have some troble free motoring for a while!
  13. Morning all I've Had one of those months, so far in the last 28 days my wheel bearing has leaked and seals had to be replaced, a UJ went, my fuel tank started leaking and had to be replace and now to top it off my power steering is playing up! It went yesterday as i was driving to work, the steering went from being light to very heavy (to the point of having to use two hands to turn it on a tight cornor) i've checked the fluid level and that seems fine, and the belt to the pump is in ok condition and tight, i've had someone watch the pump as the engine was running and i was putting the wheels lock-to-lock and it was rotating fine, and their is no noise from it to make me think it was slipping. AS i'm turning the wheel, every quater turn or so it goes from heavy to light to heavy agian. Any throughs? Thanks all.
  14. Thanks for all the replys, nice to know i'm not the only one! I have got some new hinges, and looking at the door it does tend to rattle where the pins have worn, so i'm guessing that most likly the problem. Rust wise the door is ok inside (had to remove the panel when the window dropped into the door). I'm going to refurbish all the inners of the door as since i've been slamming, the inner sheet of metal (the piece the window regulator bolts to) has bent so i'm going to take the opentunity to replace all the parts with new ones. hopefully that will solve the problem for good. All i need to do now is find somewhere that sells a screwdriver big enough to undo the screws on the hinges! Thanks once agian for all the help.
  15. Hi I have a 1993 Defender 90 200tdi. After getting it back after having its engine replaced a few months ago i had an issue where the passenger door would open during driving at speed (50-60mph) or taking a right hand corner. this was solved by adjusting the striker plate which had become very worn. A few months later the right had door started doing the same, i did the same and adjusted the striker plate, this solved the issue for a short time before the problem reappeared. You could pull the door closed but it would get stuck on the first 'step' of the catch, if that makes sense, but you could not completly close it, and if you leant on it, or drove it would eventually open. I had to relaly slam the door to get it to close. SO i replace the striker plate and that seemed to solve the problem, you just had to pull the door a little just to get close fully, and all was well. however now the problem has come back, i can close the door, and it will seem fully closed (the door wont move if you try to rattle it and is solid if you push it) only for it to open while driving (sometimes at no speed atall, this morning as i was leaving a supermarket car park the door opened) and the only way to get it to close is to open the door (as it only goes to the first step of the catch) and try closing it agian, which is something you dont want to do at 60mph! I've looked at the lock and it seems to work fine, if i set it with a pen and then try to get it to open, it wont budge, it like the lock just isn't fully engaging when you pull the door closed, but engaged enough to make it look and feel like it is. i've got some new heinges i might try, but just woundered if anyone had any ideas what to do, or experenced this themselves.
  16. Hi thanks for everyones advise and help. cant wait to get this swap done! Cheers TSR
  17. Hi thanks for everyone for their replys, really cleared a lot of things up. these Santana gear-boxes, i assuming their third party manfacturer, whats a good place to get them? Also forgive my ignorance, but i never had a land rover before, driven other 4x4s but not landys. i have got two controls in the land rover i cant identify near the gearlevel (yellow knob and red knob) i have no manual with which to consult. i guessing one if for the 4wd engagment, however someone once told me that landy are alway in 4wd so not sure if this is right. i assuming the other one for high-low range, am i close,? also is there and easy way to tell when they are engaged? (i.e. is up high/disengaged and down low/engaged) i assuming being quite 'clunkly' machines you would know when they were engaged? Thanks for this TSR
  18. Hi Forgive me if this is repetive, i have found similar topics but none which answer my specfice questions. i have both a series 3 and an old dhastisu fourtrak with a 2.8 diesle engine. i am getting the 2.8 put in the series 3 (was a 2.25 petrol but now has either leakly seal or cracked casing, and also fuel problem). what i would like to know is i am planning on using this as a workhorse vechial (pulling livestock trailers etc.) and it may well end up going sort of "off-road". should i keep the exsisting gearbox or put the fourtraks one in instead? At the moment the vechial is tax-free due to age, will this change with the new engine? and what happens regarding q-plating? finally the series has drums all round, would the disks of the dhastisu fit the series, in which case would it be worth having them put in as well? anything else i should consider regarding this type of swap? i not very techie, i know the basics but the in-depth stuff. so if possable keep it simple or explain it Thanks TSR P.S. forgive the spelling Micro$oft word has decided to delete all it dictonarys so untill i re-install it i have no spelling ability. lol
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