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Folks, Changing the A Frame (aka Wishbone) bushes on my 1986 Defender has been a bit of a struggle. The rear Ball Joint joint was proving impossible to shift and I was about to buy a new fulcrum after having tried hammers, an air chisel, heat, WD40 etc. However, I came across this YouTube video which shows some lateral thinking that enables a press to be used (something I thought impossible, because of the structure of the ball joint - cut off the ends of the flanges! A matter of minutes and the ball joint was out. So a real "Hat Tip" to Land Rover Toolbox Videos and I'm posting the link here for all to see if they are in the same predicament! I've had a look on the Technical Archive and can't find a reference to the A Frame Ball Joint. If I've missed one, I'm sure somebody will say!

Confirming Snagger above. You can drive to the MoT centre for your appointment and also to a "place of repair" (which can be your home) if - let's hope not - the vehicle fails. Personally, I gave up on Call Centre insurance companies years ago - their staff tend to have very limited knowledge. I use Peter S Taylor in Hove. They specialise in older and classic cars and bikes, but get excellent prices on all our vehicles. They're also excellent when you need to claim and take all the "music on hold" out of the way!

Very impressive.

Mine appeared to be PZ3...... Still had to chop the hinges and grind them though.... Haven't bought the replacements yet, so interested to see the replies about new ones.......

You say you can't TIG weld.....I'm having some success with a Laser product from Machine Mart which is like solder for aluminium. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/aluminium-repair-starter-kit?da=1&TC=SRC-aluminium%20weld You can use a blow torch to join aluminium. I've found it to be strong and effective. Also available (cheaper) on EBay - search under HTS 2000. You'll see videos about it on YouTube as well.

Had a try out with some Nitromors today......seems the most convenient for me - worked well. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll post some pictures of progress!

My Defender (1986 90) "repairs" have developed real mission creep as I've found more and more wrong - including electrolytic corrosion to the seat belt mountings - and I've taken the tub off to fettle it. I'm now considering taking the paint off down to the metal and wonder which might be the best way. Is there a method of media blasting that will not attack the metal? Or is the best way a job lot of Nitromors? Thanks in anticipation.........

Thanks folks! Thought it didn't look right...but understand the reasons why it might have been put in now! (Fires up angle grinder.....)

Whilst working on the Chassis of my 90 I have come across a length of 25mm right angle bar that runs between the chssis rails at the rear, between the cross member and the axle. A new cross member has been put in the vehicle by a previous owner and this appears to have been put in to assist that process. I say that because it is actually too short to be a "proper" part (by about 6mm) and the gaps have been filled with weld. It doesn't appear to have any function and is not strong enough to have structural value. Anyone agree with my analysis? See here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=12430 Or am I wrong? Should it (or another part) go across that space? If so, what?

I popped a link to the picture of it - probably as you say, the front of the A frame. People seem to call it various things....

There is always a scene at the beginning of an episode of "Casualty" when someone is doing something and it is blindingly obvious to everybody watching that he or she is about to suffer a horrific accident. That thought crossed my mind when I removed my (diesel) fuel tank today as part of fitting a new outrigger on the Defender. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=12421 Having come to the conclusion it might NOT be a good idea to set to with the grinder to remove the seized bolts at the rear of the (empty) tank, I thought I'd share the problem and seek advice from those in the know. Any thoughts? It is best to take it to a fuel tank repairer? Fill it with water? Also - having taken off the tub, I've come across the box section where the front wishbone mountings reside. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=12420 It looks very rusty, but wellying it with a hammer hasn't revealed any holes or soft bits. I can't find a repair section like it, but want to ensure I don't have to remove everything again. Should I use sheet steel to make a new one? Or is there a repair section I haven't been able to find?

Great ideas all.....but may I be boring and suggest you think about door locks (5 lever mortice or level 10 security padlocks). Also, fit hinge bolts, so if some ne'er do well cuts your hinge pins the door will stay put. Window locks are also a must, unless like me you never open them anyway, in which case just screw the transoms to the frame. Choose your "exit" door and securely bolt the other one. If you have an "up & over" door, remember the locking system is little more than a latch and easily overcome. Fit bolts in the vertical door sides on the inside to secure the door in the "down position.

Thanks everyone. Have to say the solution I'm going for is RRR47's above. Have tried the heat, the WD40, vices, wrenches and all. 16 years of corrosion have defeated me. The good news? Always wanted an excuse to get some heavy duty ones and SWMBO agrees......!

Really struggling to get tie rod ends out of steering shaft. Any tips anybody.?

Thanks guys! (.......and I'm sixty this month - who says you're never too old to learn......) So to sum up - slow, gentle, lubricated?