Jump to content

pw8757

Settled In
  • Posts

    344
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by pw8757

  1. Folks, Changing the A Frame (aka Wishbone) bushes on my 1986 Defender has been a bit of a struggle. The rear Ball Joint joint was proving impossible to shift and I was about to buy a new fulcrum after having tried hammers, an air chisel, heat, WD40 etc. However, I came across this YouTube video which shows some lateral thinking that enables a press to be used (something I thought impossible, because of the structure of the ball joint - cut off the ends of the flanges! A matter of minutes and the ball joint was out. So a real "Hat Tip" to Land Rover Toolbox Videos and I'm posting the link here for all to see if they are in the same predicament! I've had a look on the Technical Archive and can't find a reference to the A Frame Ball Joint. If I've missed one, I'm sure somebody will say!
  2. Confirming Snagger above. You can drive to the MoT centre for your appointment and also to a "place of repair" (which can be your home) if - let's hope not - the vehicle fails. Personally, I gave up on Call Centre insurance companies years ago - their staff tend to have very limited knowledge. I use Peter S Taylor in Hove. They specialise in older and classic cars and bikes, but get excellent prices on all our vehicles. They're also excellent when you need to claim and take all the "music on hold" out of the way!
  3. Mine appeared to be PZ3...... Still had to chop the hinges and grind them though.... Haven't bought the replacements yet, so interested to see the replies about new ones.......
  4. You say you can't TIG weld.....I'm having some success with a Laser product from Machine Mart which is like solder for aluminium. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/aluminium-repair-starter-kit?da=1&TC=SRC-aluminium%20weld You can use a blow torch to join aluminium. I've found it to be strong and effective. Also available (cheaper) on EBay - search under HTS 2000. You'll see videos about it on YouTube as well.
  5. Had a try out with some Nitromors today......seems the most convenient for me - worked well. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll post some pictures of progress!
  6. My Defender (1986 90) "repairs" have developed real mission creep as I've found more and more wrong - including electrolytic corrosion to the seat belt mountings - and I've taken the tub off to fettle it. I'm now considering taking the paint off down to the metal and wonder which might be the best way. Is there a method of media blasting that will not attack the metal? Or is the best way a job lot of Nitromors? Thanks in anticipation.........
  7. Thanks folks! Thought it didn't look right...but understand the reasons why it might have been put in now! (Fires up angle grinder.....)
  8. Whilst working on the Chassis of my 90 I have come across a length of 25mm right angle bar that runs between the chssis rails at the rear, between the cross member and the axle. A new cross member has been put in the vehicle by a previous owner and this appears to have been put in to assist that process. I say that because it is actually too short to be a "proper" part (by about 6mm) and the gaps have been filled with weld. It doesn't appear to have any function and is not strong enough to have structural value. Anyone agree with my analysis? See here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=12430 Or am I wrong? Should it (or another part) go across that space? If so, what?
  9. I popped a link to the picture of it - probably as you say, the front of the A frame. People seem to call it various things....
  10. There is always a scene at the beginning of an episode of "Casualty" when someone is doing something and it is blindingly obvious to everybody watching that he or she is about to suffer a horrific accident. That thought crossed my mind when I removed my (diesel) fuel tank today as part of fitting a new outrigger on the Defender. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=12421 Having come to the conclusion it might NOT be a good idea to set to with the grinder to remove the seized bolts at the rear of the (empty) tank, I thought I'd share the problem and seek advice from those in the know. Any thoughts? It is best to take it to a fuel tank repairer? Fill it with water? Also - having taken off the tub, I've come across the box section where the front wishbone mountings reside. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=12420 It looks very rusty, but wellying it with a hammer hasn't revealed any holes or soft bits. I can't find a repair section like it, but want to ensure I don't have to remove everything again. Should I use sheet steel to make a new one? Or is there a repair section I haven't been able to find?
  11. Great ideas all.....but may I be boring and suggest you think about door locks (5 lever mortice or level 10 security padlocks). Also, fit hinge bolts, so if some ne'er do well cuts your hinge pins the door will stay put. Window locks are also a must, unless like me you never open them anyway, in which case just screw the transoms to the frame. Choose your "exit" door and securely bolt the other one. If you have an "up & over" door, remember the locking system is little more than a latch and easily overcome. Fit bolts in the vertical door sides on the inside to secure the door in the "down position.
  12. Thanks everyone. Have to say the solution I'm going for is RRR47's above. Have tried the heat, the WD40, vices, wrenches and all. 16 years of corrosion have defeated me. The good news? Always wanted an excuse to get some heavy duty ones and SWMBO agrees......!
  13. Really struggling to get tie rod ends out of steering shaft. Any tips anybody.?
  14. Thanks guys! (.......and I'm sixty this month - who says you're never too old to learn......) So to sum up - slow, gentle, lubricated?
  15. The expression "High Speed Steel" being a misnomer then? (starts to feel a little stupid)
  16. The title is not a cry of woe because of unrequited love, but more a cry for help over something you would think might be relatively simple. Drill Bits I'm getting to the stage that I think it's me. I have nice, clean drill bits for drilling metal on my vehicle. I don't buy cheap ones, but generally go up the range. However, I find that they are absolutely perfect until I use them for..............drilling metal! At that stage they perform as if they want to be in one of those photos circulated by @youhadonejob on Twitter. Today, as part of cleaning up my rear axle to replace it in the Disco, I came across two sheared bolts that had decided to give up the ghost when I was removing it. I got out my (brand-new) drill bits and set to, intending to drill them out. The job has taken (in all) about six hours and I am now the proud owner of two drill bit sets comprising the very smallest and the largest, with the remainder reduced to being either broken or burnt out. The bearing on my trusty Makita drill sounds rough and as the afternoon wore on I found myself resorting to more and more bizarre methods of getting rid of the pesky sheared off bits of metal. The only good news is that I have achieved the objective and I can replace the bolts when I refit the axle. However, the issue remains. Somewhere in the world, somebody must make decent drill bits, which they then resolve not to sell to Halfords, B&Q, Machine Mart or at motor shows. Can anyone tell me where I can get drill bits which are good at doing what they are meant to do?
  17. I've got two Machine Mart ones, at home and at work. Both are great value for the money. I also have the Machine Mart compressors. The tool I use as well is the air powered version of the ratchet in my socket set. Again cheapo from Machine Mart and a brilliant bit of kit. I would suggest you go with your idea and best wishes!
  18. I've moved this to the rebuilds forum now..............
  19. I just wonder if it might be appropriate for a moderator to change the headline on this thread? I took the time to read it all, but some might not and I would feel a bit worried if it were MY business with that query about it..... (Especially as it appears the owner is a hard worker supplying great products! )
  20. Glad the post generated a bit of interest..............but it just goes to show the right motors, with the history always make money................ (Starts talking up the 1958 Wartburg............)
  21. From BBC News.......http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-coventry-warwickshire-29047632 The very first production Range Rover will be auctioned later. Anyone got about £140k to spend?
  22. I've changed the album settings..........so you should be able to see them now. The chassis picture is before the treatment............
  23. I started to refurbish my V8 Disco 1 some years ago - then work and other commitments took over........... I had got as far as having the engine ported and the chambers reground to generate more performance, coupled with a new high lift camshaft. Taking out the engine had revealed a fair amount of rust - including to the chassis. This was welded - the usual places, bottoms of the A pillars, driver and passenger front foot wells and the bulkhead below the washer bottle carrier as well as the inner wings on both sides. After I'd plated the chassis, it went away for shot blasting. The same place dipped it, galvanised it and powder coated it. (Surprisingly cheaply as I remember!) I got rid of the "torpedo" under-slung LPG tanks as purchased a doughnut tank with a small petrol tank. I'd got as far as refitting the chassis before the programme stalled for lack of time. This weekend, I collected all the components from where they had been salted away around the workshop and sheds and brought them all together. I'm now looking forward to winter evenings in the "man-cave" as everything is cleaned, refurbished/replaced and fitted to the car. I thought I'd let you see some of the photos of the present state of the car and keep people up to date as it progresses..............although it looks like the mother and father of all jigsaw puzzles at the moment! First project (seems to me) will be to get the car's infrastructure - brake pipes, wiring loom, etc into position, followed by refitting the running gear. I'll keep you posted!
  24. pw8757

    Retrim

    I looked at this because I'm interested in new trim as well. See this thread from another forum (Looks as though Sam's has gone to me...........) http://ollr.createaforum.com/general-land-rover-stuff/sams-trim/
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy