Christian Eilersen

Metric/imperial swap seemed to be the problem. Turns out I had fine thread (dont know if that is metric or imperial) on the bolts, but larger thread on the caliber bolts on the the other front caliber.. I bought the axle used a couple of months ago - dont know why the guy had different bolts in the calibers.. But now I think I might have ended up with more serious problems... Because I thought the problem was a ruined thread in swiwel, I used a thread tapping tool and cleaned up the thread, still with a fine thread. Now I am stuck - I am neither able to tighten with a metric nor imperial bolt... What to do? Should I use a thread tapping tool and try to reestablish the larger thread or am I totally screwed..? Kind regards Christian

worked like a charm. - thanks alot. kind regards Christian

Hi, I have a problem with one of my front caliper bolts. While putting in new bolts I must have destroyed the thread on one of the bolts. Now the bolt sits in the hole, all the way in, but I am unable to tighten the bolt - It just runs around.. The problem is that I am not able to unscrew the bolt and replace it either. Anyone have a good idea as to how I can "pull" out the broken bolt? Last resort I guess is to take the caliper apart, remove axles, discs etc. and drill the bolt from the other side.. kind regards Christian

Hi Les, Since I have changed the complete front axle, and the vibration was there before and after, I presumed I wasn't looking at any problems there. But ofcourse, it could be that I have tracking or swivel issues on both the old and the new axle - after all, we are talking about Land Rover here :-) I will have a quick look at the tracking tonight - I should be able to check for major tracking issues, with some basic geometri with a piece of string, right? If that doesn't solve anything, I think I will start with having the wheels re-ballanced as Jason suggests, before I throw myself at any complex swivel operations :-) Any suggestions to what might cause my clicking noise? - I realised that if I apply light pressure to the brakes, then there is sometimes a continuing low cliking noise, at the rate of the wheels turning - I guess that definitively concludes that it is the brake pads that is the trouble.. Strange since the pads look fine, and doesn't appear to be loose. /Christian

Hi all, I have 2 problems with my defender 300 tdi from 1995.. Problem 1. The car suffers from a rather strong vibration when driving at approx 70Kph/50mph. The vibration have been there for a while. But seems to have gotten a bit worse lately. At lower or higher speeds the vibration stops. The vibration seems to come from the front of the vehicle. Unrelated to the vibration problem I have changed the folowing during the last month: - complete front axle incl. front dif. - both props with new UJ's in both ends. Have checked both. There are a bit of play at the front of the T-box, but I think it is supposed to be there. - Steering damper, droparm/w. ball joint. The car have relatively new polybushes all around - all seems to be in good condition. As mentioned the above havent had any positive effect on vibration. I have switched wheels front to back, to discover any ballancing issues - with no luck. Problem 2: The car have during the last couple of days picked up a light "click" noise, when applying the brakes or when running over bumps a slow speed. The click only appears once when the brakes are applied - it sounds like the pads are loose, but they seem to sit quite firmly in the calipers. The sound doesnt appear when braking in reverse. The sound seems to come from the front of the vehicle. any ideas on both problems are greatly appreciated Kind regards Christian

Hi all, I am about to change the lower seal on the steering box on my 1994 300tdi defender 90. I am a bit unsure of how the new seals should be fitted, could anyone upload a screenshot from Microcat showing the fitting order? kind regards Christin

The trick is to spray it with normal aerosol, and then use a hard brush to brush the exess paint of. Then repeat the process until you are satisfied with the result. I have seen it once and the result was pretty impressive.. Christian

Hi Les, Just to make sure I dont make any stupid mistakes.. which are which, and what way should they be facing, when I insert them? Sorry for the level of detail required, I am compleetly on new territory here... christian

Hi all, I am trying to fix my leaking 4 bolts PAS-unit om my Defender 90 300TDI from 1994. I got the seal kit (stc2847) and have removed the droparm and flushed to servo oil and old seals from the box. The problem is that the content of the seal kit doesn't quite look like what the PAS unit spit out from the bottom. From the PAS i got 3 old seals/washers: -a flat rubber seal with a metal back plating -a soft rubber seal -a harder rubber seal / dust cap Jeg attached a picture showing the contents of the seal kit - my problems are: - The flat rubber seal with the metal back looks like the old one but the inner diameter seems to small. It slides on the axle from the bottom, but when it reaches the the top where the splines on the axle join, the diameter is to small and I can't push the seal further (I have only tried by hand - but have used quite a lot of force..). - the soft rubber seal looks similar and fits on the axle, but the profile is different. - The dustcap look similar - this should just go on as a finisher after I put the circlip on, right? The rest of the items in the kit, doesnt look like they fit - I guess they are for the other parts of the PAS unit. (I only need to fix the lower axle.) The instructions with the kit is non-existing - could anyone be kind and direct me in the right direction regarding the order these should be fitted, and what way the the go in?? :-) kind regards, Christian

Hi Dave, Thank you for the answer. I will try to get the old arms from the guy that sold me the axle. But I will need another type of bushes for this type of radius arm, wont I? The bushes themselves are too wide now.. christian

Hi, I am changing the front axle on my Defender (300tdi, 90" from 1994), and everything was going juuust fine.. Old axle is of, and I am about to fix the old radius arms to the new axle. The problem is that my radiusarms doesn't fit the new axle, since the front brackets are too narrow. On the new axle the brackets are approx. 48mm wide and on the old one they are approx. 53mm wide. The radius arm itself would fit ok, but I my polybushes adds about 3mm to each side of the arm. On the old axle, that was not a problem, but now I cant persuade the radius arm to go on, not even with brute force. Do I have a wrong axle for my vehicle? Or are there just different brackets? Should I get som other type of bushes, or can I cut some of the polybush and the steel inner tube off, and get the radius arm to fit that way? Any help is much appreciated - I really need the car to be running by the end of the holidays.. :-) kind regards Christian

I actually replaced the original cast iron ones with TD5-hinges. Was just wondering if the aluminium hinges were even better than the TD5-version?

This doesn't seem to refer to the aluminium hinges from Paddock? The Cryotek ones are not really comparable, since they cost 3 times as much.. :-)

Hi Forum, Like so many Defender owners, I am tired of changing/painting the hinges on my Defender once every few months to keep the rust away.. - just to discover the rust is running off the hinges, seconds after I am done.. Just came across these britpar aluminium hinges at Paddock's http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Body_and_Panels/Aluminium_Door_Hinges_with_stainless_steel_hinge_pins_-_Set_of_4.html Have anyone tried these - and are they any good? It still have a steel hinge pin.. how much rust can that produce :-) kind regards, Christian

Hi all, Thank you for an exellent description. Just what I was looking for! I am looking forward to trying this one of the upcoming weekends.. can't go wrong.. :-) thanks a lot. Christian