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crwoody

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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. I'm afraid it sounds like its coming down to a "Brute Force & Ignorance" approach needed here, with plenty of persuading. I guess the bolts have corroded to the extent where they've become "at-one" with the housing casting, maybe plenty of WD40 and a good "wiggling" might shift it, trouble is of course that you dont want to damage the mounting face by levering it off directly. At least you dont have to worry too much about damaging the housing, assuming your spare is a complete one.
  2. I think you'll find there is a tank breather next to the rear X-member inside the rear passenger side wheelarch, ends up in an inverted "U", could get bunged up with mud, worth checking that out .
  3. Sounds like it could be a blocked fuel filter, (in the drivers side rear wheel arch.) Has it been changed lately? Are there any odd noises from the fuel pump when the problem occurs?
  4. It's 36mm, I got a generic Laser one from my local motor factors (listed as a Ford one if I remember correctly.) You may also need another tool to lock the pulley depending how tight it's been put on. Also bear in mind it's a normal right hand thread not a LH as so many are.
  5. I don't know of any particular year but I would say any after 2002 would be better than pre 2002, thats when they changed from EU2 to EU3 emmissions compliance and changed to a flash programmed UCU, improved injectors and other improvements. They also beefed up the EGR arrangements which I've heard say reduce the performance slightly but can be easily removed. From those I've heard, the later ones seem to run quieter (and smoother?) than the earlier ones.
  6. Depends how quickly the water comes in, a bit of rain water is OK but it can't cope with a proper gush. Thinking about sticking a second snorkel on mine.
  7. You also have an issue where the metal sheet would be a lot thinner than the original glass and would not be held tightly enough by the rubber glazing strip.
  8. "10 minute job" = "kiss of death" Did it again the other day. Oil on the N/S back wheel of my recently aquired Disco (300), "that'll be the drive flange bolts loose, I'll just whip the wheel off and tighten them up", finally got it all back together about 6 hours later after having to remove the hub and drill out 3 broken bolts. Trouble is, yesterday I checked the other side "just to be sure" and found four out of five broken on this side, I think it will have to wait until it gets a bit warmer.
  9. I've had a wing top scoop on mine for a while, doesn't really seem to make much difference though, maybe a slight improvement if travelling at a decent speed but when stopped or going slowly it only hinders the flow as others have said. The other side issue is though, as Hamish Grundy has suggested, even if it does increase airflow, ie. at speed, this could reduce the heater matrix temperature if it's not getting hot enough to start with so you end up with no real benefit anyway. Always good for wetting your passengers feet if you go wading a bit deep and the bow wave comes over the bonnet/wings, best to shut it off first.
  10. I've had this with my td5 90 more or less since I got it from 3 yrs old with about 30'000 miles on it, I still don't know if it's the release or spigit bearing but it only does it from cold for a few seconds and has never got any worse (about 55'000 now) so I will continue to ignore it until something breaks.
  11. As all above, doesn't need one for a UK spec. My 2001 D90 was never fitted with a cat, I fitted a straight-through centre box replacement pipe a few years ago and it's been through 3 or 4 MOT's since then with no problems at all. It makes a noticeable improvement to the turbo response and sounds better too. Clive
  12. crwoody

    Axles

    New happys to all. The axles ......... I guess it really depends on what condition they're in when you get them, obviously the diff oil, one-shot in the hubs and grease in the wheel bearings wouldn't go amiss but if they're late axles that have not been abused, excessive stripping down may just mean a lot of extra work for nothing and sometimes creates it's own problems. Personally my money's in the "don't fix it 'till it's broke" camp (apart from regular lubrication changes.)
  13. Cheers Ian, What a star, you're right on there with the injector coding and Nanocom tune file formats, I've put in the 110 tune files and programmed the injector codes as you suggested, not had time for a proper test-drive yet but in any case I'm still running with the old engine but it runs OK except for the small problem that I've had since replacing the ECU. It will start easily and tick over nice and smooth but with no throttle response until its been running for a minute or two, then it runs and drives perfectly normally (except for the bag of spanners noise), if you floor the pedal during the "warm-up" period it chugs a bit without really increasing the revs and coughs out loads of grey smoke that smells of semi-burnt fuel. It's got a two pot throttle pedal on my truck and it's programmed as such in the ECU, but I get a couple of fault codes 04-03 & 06-03 both listed as "coolant temp circuit CURRENT", I sometimes get "noisy crank signal" too but I guess the coolant temp one could cause the strange cold start fault, maybe the new engine will fix it. By the way, you mention changing the VIN, I know it's logged in the ECU but my version of Nanocom (2.03) doesn't display it anywhere so far as I can see let alone show an option to change it, do you have any suggestions of how to get to it? Thanks again, Clive
  14. Hi all, Due to the untimely demise of the vac pump rotor and my failure to replace the engine oil quckly enough afterwards, I am in the process of replacing the now very rattly td5 engine in my 51 plate Defender 90, however I am a little confused about the codes for the injectors. I know they need the five digit code (stamped on the injector top next to the plug) entering to the ECU for each one, fair enough, I've identified the codes, but looking at the Nanocom read/write settings page, they are shown as a seven digit code grouped in 3 "boxes", eg. [NC] [NM] [2-F-B] the first two groups of 2 are OK but how does the next box relate to the letters on the unit and the fifth digit, maybe it's just me being dim but I can't see the connection. By the way, the new lump is the later 15P engine (out of a Disco 2) replacing the original 10P unit. I've already replaced the ECU a while ago when the original one died with an intermittent fault, the replacement here is also the later type, NNN500020. If anyone can shed some light on this I would be most grateful. Cheers, Clive.
  15. One of the advantages of having rear side windows is the improved visibility when you’re trying to pull out of obtuse angled road junctions, or some off road situations. On the downside, if they’re the factory fitted ones, they can be inclined to leak a bit, especially if you use a jet wash, also, depending on the age / generation they can rattle quite a bit where the sliding glass is not held tightly enough in the runners. I’ve never found security to be an issue with mine; given that you’ll have a nice big window in the back door a couple more won’t make much difference. Clive.
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