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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. I don't know what vehicle yours is but on the Td5 there a light green/black which feeds the washer pump directly from the switch, also connected to a feed from the wiper delay relay, then from the pump, there is a black earth wire connected via one of the headers. My guess from the way you describe the intermittent nature is the earth may have a bad connection, it's pretty unlikely that a wire in the harness would just break.
  2. crwoody

    TD5 alarm

    The Lucas 10AS alarm ECU is a generic unit used in a number of different cars, (Defender, Discovery 2, some Rovers) and as such is fully configurable with the right diagnostic tool. So yes, the interior light operation, locking and remote locking actions and alarm functionality can all be controlled via a Nanocom or similar. For example, I've got mine set so that the volumetric alarm is armed when locking with the key fob but not so if I lock it with the key, this is to prevent false triggers if I leave the dogs in the car and/or a window open. There's a lot of useful info here - https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/lucas-10as-alarm-nanocom-evolution I don't know of any current group buys going on just now, the last one I could find was about 2 years ago on Defender2.net
  3. Did you replace the pressure plate as well? I was having problems with my clutch slipping recently but on fitting a new one the old friction plate was hardly worn, it was slipping due to the springs in the pressure plate not applying sufficient clamping pressure.
  4. As I remember it they screw into tapped holes in the upright ends of the square section bar but didn't quite line up with the rivet holes, it was easy enough to drill the extra holes to suit with careful measuring, then once the top plate was lined up and screwed down, the holes for the rivets can be drilled.
  5. I did mine a few months ago, the hardest bit was cutting down either side from the top, really just in terms of accessibility, I ended up using a combination of an angle grinder, "sabre" saw and jigsaw to get in there and to cut the curve profile reasonably accurately, you don't need to be all that precise though because the angled piece that goes over the top covers the top inch or so of the cut edge. A decent riveter helps too. I also removed all the seats to make access easier.
  6. If the steering is stiff at the same point of rotation on each turn of the steering wheel, I'd say it's most likely a damaged steering box.
  7. I've had two Disco 3's a few years ago that both used to do the same, never really took much notice of it until one had the brake servo recall, then I became a bit more aware of it, probably because of the potential brake fade issue the recall addressed. My 2004 90 does it too, albeit a little more slowly, I can only assume there must be a little bit of by-pass leakage in the master cylinder, or something similar going on with the ABS module. I've got to keep a fair amount of pressure on the pedal for it to occur, probably quite a bit more than I'd use to apply the brakes normally.
  8. You would be alright to use the redundant O/S plug so long as it will only be used to trigger a relay, the relay then feeds the spots from a more substantial supply in the same way that the Boomslang relays do.
  9. As Western says, no airbags on Defender to worry about. Personally, I've never had to resort to a puller to get the steering wheel off so you could get lucky with a wiggle and pull, just one tip though, when you undo the centre nut, just slacken it a couple of turns but leave it on initially, this will help to prevent you from smacking yourself in the face with the wheel when it lets go. Good luck.
  10. Yes you're right, the switches are grounded to one side by their individual fixing screws, the switched, (live side,) purple/blue wires, connect together and go back to the 10AS alarm module. Switch closed with any door open = light on.
  11. There are four separate headlight fuses, one for each filament, Fuse 24 is for the RH main beam, they're all in the passenger compartment fusebox, ( by the gear lever.)
  12. Just make sure you fuse it properly then, 20A should be plenty of capacity but get it as close to the battery as possible to protect the wire and prevent fry-ups.
  13. Not sure which version yours is, but the later (2002 on) Td5 takes a feed from Fuse 7 (20A) under the driver side seatbox for the 10AS alarm/locking ECU, (green plastic box, mounted behind the dash binnacle,) via a Purple/Black wire. Of course, if yours is not equipped with the 10AS then that wire or fuse will probably not be there, however, it shouldn't be too hard to find a permanent (fused) live wire in that area, you don't need a huge current capacity. If you do have the 10AS it simplifies things somewhat as the central locking logic and drivers are already there, you'll just need to add the door lock solenoids and wiring and get a kit to modify the current alarm module to add an extra relay and a couple of other bits to it, it's an easy modification if you can use a soldering iron.
  14. I can't really answer your question conclusively, but it looks exactly the same on my 2004 Def 90, I would assume the bar/hump there to provide some rigidity to the centre part of the seat box. The front vertical panel of the box is cut away in the centre to accommodate the transmission tunnel leaving only half an inch or so of metal across the middle, my guess is that it would flex under load and allow the middle of the box to sag if the frontal top bar was removed.
  15. crwoody

    TD5 110

    I made up a 6mm steel plate drilled and tapped m8 to suit the brake lever plate along with a rubber gasket and used that to clamp through the seatbox top, lever on top, plate underneath.
  16. crwoody

    TD5 110

    Definitely a boost box, got the same on mine along with a stage 2 Alive tuning re-map, it fools the ECU into seeing a lower boost than it really is. Regarding the handbrake lever, if you have a centre seat then you're pretty much stuck with it, however, if you've a centre cubby box, I would highly recommend getting yourself a Disco2 handbrake lever and mounting it on the top of the seatbox between drivers seat and cubby box, much more user friendly.
  17. If I remember correctly the M8 bolts should go through a fairly substantial steel "L" shaped bracket underneath the seatbox bolted to the chassis.
  18. crwoody

    TD5 110

    Yes, the later Puma doors are a straight swap, that's exactly what did with my 2004 90 with rotten door bottoms.
  19. I can't really answer your question but I'd like to offer a word of caution. Anything going astray in the vac pump will eventually end up in the sump mixed in with the oil, particularly small particles, the carbon vanes themselves may not cause too much of a problem but you need to inspect the rotor very carefully. I had one break up a few years ago and it pretty much wrecked the engine with minute very hard shards of the rotor getting through the filters, this all happened in a trip of 100 miles or so. I'd suggest changing the oil & filters a couple of times to flush out any contaminants before running it for any significant time. Good luck with sourcing your parts.
  20. It's most likely an earth fault. Depending on which vehicle, (certainly Td5,) there is a common earth point on the bulkhead, behind the coolant expansion bottle. The lights, ABS module, radio and a few others are grounded there together, a bad/loose connection there will cause this problem.
  21. There's usually a spring clip on the underside of the handle, like in this link - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Door-Window-Metal-Clip-Crank-Retainer-Roll-Up-Winder-Handle-Retaining-Clip-H5/273001177349?hash=item3f90236105:g:WwsAAOSwIFtaRZlM You need a small hooked end device to get under the handle and hook the closed end then give it a pull. I used a length of 2mm galv wire, flattened the end and bent it over to form the hook.
  22. With the wheels straight ahead ONLY, clearance is minimal at this point, at any other position you risk damaging the unit badly by denting the worm and creating tight spots or worse still jamming the whole thing up. Also be gentle with it, tighten only enough to minimise the play at mid point, it will increase anyway as you turn away from centre. Mine suffers from this problem, presumably due to a previous owner setting it in the wrong place, there is a "notch" in the steering with the wheel at about 2 o'clock from centre which is just tight enough to prevent it from self-centering on a modest right-hand bend, very annoying. I've been getting around to replacing the steering box for the last 3 years, oh well - one day.
  23. So far as I remember the 2001 defender with a two-piece rear door, (squared-off bottom corners,) used aluminium angle sections, screwed in from the inside to hold the window in place, sealed with mastic, the later pressed steel door with rounded bottom corners, uses a conventional window seal the same as the front screen. None are actually bonded in the way that "modern" screens are fitted.
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