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crwoody

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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. I've had two Disco 3's a few years ago that both used to do the same, never really took much notice of it until one had the brake servo recall, then I became a bit more aware of it, probably because of the potential brake fade issue the recall addressed. My 2004 90 does it too, albeit a little more slowly, I can only assume there must be a little bit of by-pass leakage in the master cylinder, or something similar going on with the ABS module. I've got to keep a fair amount of pressure on the pedal for it to occur, probably quite a bit more than I'd use to apply the brakes normally.
  2. You would be alright to use the redundant O/S plug so long as it will only be used to trigger a relay, the relay then feeds the spots from a more substantial supply in the same way that the Boomslang relays do.
  3. As Western says, no airbags on Defender to worry about. Personally, I've never had to resort to a puller to get the steering wheel off so you could get lucky with a wiggle and pull, just one tip though, when you undo the centre nut, just slacken it a couple of turns but leave it on initially, this will help to prevent you from smacking yourself in the face with the wheel when it lets go. Good luck.
  4. Yes you're right, the switches are grounded to one side by their individual fixing screws, the switched, (live side,) purple/blue wires, connect together and go back to the 10AS alarm module. Switch closed with any door open = light on.
  5. There are four separate headlight fuses, one for each filament, Fuse 24 is for the RH main beam, they're all in the passenger compartment fusebox, ( by the gear lever.)
  6. Just make sure you fuse it properly then, 20A should be plenty of capacity but get it as close to the battery as possible to protect the wire and prevent fry-ups.
  7. Not sure which version yours is, but the later (2002 on) Td5 takes a feed from Fuse 7 (20A) under the driver side seatbox for the 10AS alarm/locking ECU, (green plastic box, mounted behind the dash binnacle,) via a Purple/Black wire. Of course, if yours is not equipped with the 10AS then that wire or fuse will probably not be there, however, it shouldn't be too hard to find a permanent (fused) live wire in that area, you don't need a huge current capacity. If you do have the 10AS it simplifies things somewhat as the central locking logic and drivers are already there, you'll just need to add the door lock solenoids and wiring and get a kit to modify the current alarm module to add an extra relay and a couple of other bits to it, it's an easy modification if you can use a soldering iron.
  8. I can't really answer your question conclusively, but it looks exactly the same on my 2004 Def 90, I would assume the bar/hump there to provide some rigidity to the centre part of the seat box. The front vertical panel of the box is cut away in the centre to accommodate the transmission tunnel leaving only half an inch or so of metal across the middle, my guess is that it would flex under load and allow the middle of the box to sag if the frontal top bar was removed.
  9. crwoody

    TD5 110

    I made up a 6mm steel plate drilled and tapped m8 to suit the brake lever plate along with a rubber gasket and used that to clamp through the seatbox top, lever on top, plate underneath.
  10. crwoody

    TD5 110

    Definitely a boost box, got the same on mine along with a stage 2 Alive tuning re-map, it fools the ECU into seeing a lower boost than it really is. Regarding the handbrake lever, if you have a centre seat then you're pretty much stuck with it, however, if you've a centre cubby box, I would highly recommend getting yourself a Disco2 handbrake lever and mounting it on the top of the seatbox between drivers seat and cubby box, much more user friendly.
  11. If I remember correctly the M8 bolts should go through a fairly substantial steel "L" shaped bracket underneath the seatbox bolted to the chassis.
  12. crwoody

    TD5 110

    Yes, the later Puma doors are a straight swap, that's exactly what did with my 2004 90 with rotten door bottoms.
  13. I can't really answer your question but I'd like to offer a word of caution. Anything going astray in the vac pump will eventually end up in the sump mixed in with the oil, particularly small particles, the carbon vanes themselves may not cause too much of a problem but you need to inspect the rotor very carefully. I had one break up a few years ago and it pretty much wrecked the engine with minute very hard shards of the rotor getting through the filters, this all happened in a trip of 100 miles or so. I'd suggest changing the oil & filters a couple of times to flush out any contaminants before running it for any significant time. Good luck with sourcing your parts.
  14. It's most likely an earth fault. Depending on which vehicle, (certainly Td5,) there is a common earth point on the bulkhead, behind the coolant expansion bottle. The lights, ABS module, radio and a few others are grounded there together, a bad/loose connection there will cause this problem.
  15. There's usually a spring clip on the underside of the handle, like in this link - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Door-Window-Metal-Clip-Crank-Retainer-Roll-Up-Winder-Handle-Retaining-Clip-H5/273001177349?hash=item3f90236105:g:WwsAAOSwIFtaRZlM You need a small hooked end device to get under the handle and hook the closed end then give it a pull. I used a length of 2mm galv wire, flattened the end and bent it over to form the hook.
  16. With the wheels straight ahead ONLY, clearance is minimal at this point, at any other position you risk damaging the unit badly by denting the worm and creating tight spots or worse still jamming the whole thing up. Also be gentle with it, tighten only enough to minimise the play at mid point, it will increase anyway as you turn away from centre. Mine suffers from this problem, presumably due to a previous owner setting it in the wrong place, there is a "notch" in the steering with the wheel at about 2 o'clock from centre which is just tight enough to prevent it from self-centering on a modest right-hand bend, very annoying. I've been getting around to replacing the steering box for the last 3 years, oh well - one day.
  17. So far as I remember the 2001 defender with a two-piece rear door, (squared-off bottom corners,) used aluminium angle sections, screwed in from the inside to hold the window in place, sealed with mastic, the later pressed steel door with rounded bottom corners, uses a conventional window seal the same as the front screen. None are actually bonded in the way that "modern" screens are fitted.
  18. I'd say one buzzer and two diodes.
  19. There is a separate feed (fuse 3, 30A) to the headlight flash part of the switch, the main supply to the rest of the light switch is from Link 6, 30A. Both these are in the under-seat fusebox.
  20. A 12v 10W (or 2 x 5W) lamp will draw less than 1 amp, so 2 amps for a pair of 10W will be no problem at all for the wiring or fuses. Don't forget, you'll have 21W lamps for the indicators and stop lights on the same size wiring. I think the original choice of 5W lamps has more to do with construction and use regulations that were relevant at the time.
  21. What you've drawn is pretty much how the pre-made ones come, I contemplated the same myself about 2 yrs ago and came to the conclusion that by the time I'd bought all the individual connectors and relays etc it was a much better use of my time and cash to just buy one ready made. So another vote for the Boomslang loom.
  22. Personally I've never bothered, just get the engine up to temperature, bit of a run and then drain it straight away, leave it for a while to finish dripping. Otherwise add a couple of litres of diesel to the engine oil to thin it, run it for long enough to ensure it's well mixed in before draining.
  23. Well, after much deliberation I finally took the plunge and fitted a pair of gas struts to my Td5 90 bonnet. I know there are kits available for the task, but where's the fun in that The struts I used came off a scrapped Suzuki Swift tailgate which is relatively light and suits the Defender bonnet weight. They came with the brackets for the top end and ball joints for the lower end attached, they don't have the spring quick release arrangement that the European ones have. I made a bit easier to fix to the bonnet and wings by drilling and tapping some steel plates to screw into rather than fiddling about with nuts & washers, then it was just a question of careful measurement and drilling. IMG_2166.MOV
  24. I've been contemplating this for a while, I do have my doubts though that the design of the bonnet hinges are not ideal for a strut assisted opening bonnet?
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