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crwoody

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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. A 12v 10W (or 2 x 5W) lamp will draw less than 1 amp, so 2 amps for a pair of 10W will be no problem at all for the wiring or fuses. Don't forget, you'll have 21W lamps for the indicators and stop lights on the same size wiring. I think the original choice of 5W lamps has more to do with construction and use regulations that were relevant at the time.
  2. What you've drawn is pretty much how the pre-made ones come, I contemplated the same myself about 2 yrs ago and came to the conclusion that by the time I'd bought all the individual connectors and relays etc it was a much better use of my time and cash to just buy one ready made. So another vote for the Boomslang loom.
  3. Personally I've never bothered, just get the engine up to temperature, bit of a run and then drain it straight away, leave it for a while to finish dripping. Otherwise add a couple of litres of diesel to the engine oil to thin it, run it for long enough to ensure it's well mixed in before draining.
  4. Well, after much deliberation I finally took the plunge and fitted a pair of gas struts to my Td5 90 bonnet. I know there are kits available for the task, but where's the fun in that The struts I used came off a scrapped Suzuki Swift tailgate which is relatively light and suits the Defender bonnet weight. They came with the brackets for the top end and ball joints for the lower end attached, they don't have the spring quick release arrangement that the European ones have. I made a bit easier to fix to the bonnet and wings by drilling and tapping some steel plates to screw into rather than fiddling about with nuts & washers, then it was just a question of careful measurement and drilling. IMG_2166.MOV
  5. I've been contemplating this for a while, I do have my doubts though that the design of the bonnet hinges are not ideal for a strut assisted opening bonnet?
  6. Yes the fast wipe connects the motor directly via the switch, the slow position connects through the switch but also via a contact on the relay, then on to a separate wire that connects via a resistor fitted internally to the wiper motor. The relay is primarily used for the intermittent wipe delay function but as above power is routed via (I think) a normally closed contact on the relay. wipers.pdf
  7. Th wiper park switch is a common problem with these, there should be 12v power on the White/Green wire to the switch with ignition on, the Black one is ground and the Black/Green should be either 0v or 12v depending on the switch position, (normally 0v if parked.) If the washer is working there will be power to the wiper switch so the wiper should work at least in the fast or "flick" positions, if not, either the contacts on the switch are open/dirty/knackered or the motor is goosed.
  8. They may have improved over the years and I have no recent experience of them but I fitted one to a Td5 Defender 90 a few years ago and have to say I was disapointed with it. It seemed to work quite well at first and would certainly "hold" well although it was a bit tricky to get set up correctly initially, but it used to snatch badly if used as an emergency brake, much less control than the normal drum. What finished it for me though was that the disk got "out of true" after some off-roading, (may have caught it and damaged it slightly although I could net see any damage,) after this you could hear it catching on the pads/caliper while turning so I removed it and re-fitted the original drum. The X-Eng disk brake was sold to me on the basis that "it doesn't get clogged with mud" but to be honest I never really had that problem with the drum anyway, however with the disk pads being relatively small and completely open to all the mud and dirt they seemed to wear a lot quicker than the original shoes which I never had to replace.
  9. Pretty sure this is due to a loose earth connection, possibly the one in the bottom of the seatbox under the engine ECU. Another common dodgy earth point is the one on the bulkhead behind the coolant expansion tank.
  10. The "Oil service" warning will not be reset by simply changing the oil and filter, it needs to be reset electronically by plugging in a diagnostic service device to re-start the countdown to the next service. There may possibly be a way to reset it by pressing buttons in a certain sequence, however, I'm not familiar with the Puma so I'm not certain on that one. Edited to add; the warranty should not be affected so long as you have proof of the service intervention, invoices etc.
  11. If the lit tail lights go off when the brake is pressed that indicates an open earth connection to the rear lights.
  12. Sounds to me like there could be a dodgy earth connection somewhere. Not so sure where though.
  13. Cruise control on a Td5 is entirely integral to the engine ECU with it's electronically controlled fuel injection. So far as I know the 300tdi is purely a mechanical injection pump system, so I'm afraid you'll be out of luck on the Td5 route.
  14. They're M8 x 35 raised head countersunk. I just took one of mine out to check and yes they are tight, had to use an impact driver to loosen it. Just had a thought; they're the same style as the original earlier hinge screws, maybe a source if you've replaced any in the past and kept the old ones.
  15. I'm watching this thread with interest, I quite fancy the ATB's all round, apart from anything else, I suspect the reduction in backlash compared to a standard diff would be a nice improvement.
  16. Agreed, the relay would be easiest, you could connect the coil between the white/green wire on the wash switch and the black/green wire on the rear wipe switch, then link the white/green to one side of the relay contact and the other side to the black/light green wire on the wash switch.
  17. I guess you've got two choices here, either disconnect the rear pump motor from it's existing wires and re-wire it in parallel with the coil of the rear wipe relay, or add an extra relay with it's coil wired to the existing wiper relay and use it's normally-open contact to replicate the existing washer switch. The washer fluid delay is just the time taken to refill the pipe, I believe there's a non-return valve in there somewhere to stop it leaking back but I suspect they get gummed up after a while.
  18. I had something very similar on one of my previous Defenders, IIRC the outer edge is fitted to the tub with two "P" clips which are clipped over the long vertical bar and screwed to the outer edge of the tub, this the allows the guard to hinge out, the inner edge of the guard is then attached using the fixed brackets. It just means you only have to remove one (or two) screws to get to the lights instead of all of them. I'm not a big fan of the light guards myself, I found the ones on the front caused more damage to the wings that the minor "altercation" with the tree would have done and the lights are cheap enough anyway. Each to their own though
  19. The heated seat supply fuses are on the supply side before the switches, link 3 - 60A under the seatbox before the ignition relay and then a second one, fuse 33 - 20A after the relay which feeds both switches, from this point the feed and earth return are common to both seats. This is assuming it's the original wiring and not an after-market add-on. If it's anything like mine, both had failed due to the heater elements being "scrunched-up" and broken under the fabric outer cover, presumably as a result of "wriggly arse syndrome", trouble is, the base and back sections are wired in series so if one fails they both stop working.
  20. My 56 plate Disco 3 is averaging 25.5mpg based on actual tank to tank figures over the last 18 months or so, the rather optomistic on-board computer is showing 28. This is based on a mix of motorway long runs and pottering about around town, if I could bring myself to stick to 60 or so on the motorways I could probably manage 30mpg.
  21. There's always another way! When replacing the standard Defender ball joint, drill and tap a hole in the round steel ball-joint backplate and fit a grease nipple, that way you can ensure it's always lubricated properly and much less likely to wear out. It worked for me anyway.
  22. It won't be the indicator switch and isn't very likely to be the ECU, sounds to me like you have a loose earth connection somewhere. I'd start with the one underneath the ECU in the bottom of the seatbox.
  23. When I found I had a fair bit of play in my Panhard rod bush, I found it was just the bolt that had come loose and worn oval. A new bolt properly tightened fixed it permanently.
  24. Quite normal, the heat from the exhaust tends to rise into the void of the seatbox and then has nowhere to go.
  25. I'd go for whipping the belt off first and checking the idlers and tension pulley bearings, I had all of them fail on mine over time.
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