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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. When I found I had a fair bit of play in my Panhard rod bush, I found it was just the bolt that had come loose and worn oval. A new bolt properly tightened fixed it permanently.
  2. Quite normal, the heat from the exhaust tends to rise into the void of the seatbox and then has nowhere to go.
  3. I'd go for whipping the belt off first and checking the idlers and tension pulley bearings, I had all of them fail on mine over time.
  4. Could also be the alternator brushes/carrier pack. I had a similar effect with mine a while ago, when I stripped the alternator afterwards, I found the brush carriers were so full of crud it stopped the brushes sliding properly resulting in insufficient contact with the commutator and little or no charge to the battery.
  5. I think you'll find it's necessary to lift the body off to get access to it, particularly the turbo and exhaust areas, I'm led to believe it's not that hard a job though.
  6. Same as Western, about into the orange section - but the gauge on mine (2001 Td5) always seemed very non-linear, I'd get maybe 150 miles from the 1st quarter tank (from full) but the last ΒΌ might only get me 50 miles. So like yourself, I never really had much confidence in it, to the point where I used to carry a 2 gallon can full - just in case.
  7. They're not actually plugs but "headers" where a number of wires connected to the same circuit connect together.
  8. crwoody

    TD5 EGR

    Depends what year yer Td5 is, 2002 onwards you need the first one to remove the butterfly valve as well as blanking, earlier ones don't have the butterfly valve so the simple blanking plate will do.
  9. Have you tried NFU? they are usually pretty relaxed about mods and have never charged me any admin fees for changes. Depends where you live though, they can be fussy about what home areas they will cover for. Still worth enquiring.
  10. crwoody

    speedo prob!

    Sounds like the cable was not fully seated at one end or the other, try re-fitting it and make sure the ends are properly located and screwed up tight.
  11. crwoody

    Main beam

    Yes you're right, as Fridge says there's no need to upgrade existing wiring if you're not taking any more power from it, the relay coil only takes a fraction of an amp, nothing to worry about.
  12. crwoody

    Main beam

    The last time I did this, I wired them through a relay from a decent capacity fused live feed, then just took a feed from the main beam circuit to drive the relay coil, also took the lamps earth return direct to chassis too, this way, it keeps them independent of the original light wiring and with no need for an extra switch.
  13. I got two tubes of the JCB blue from the same supplier last year, so they do sell it individually, worth getting in touch with them if you have no joy otherwise.
  14. Depends how quick you are with the swap. Not much in any case as it's fairly high up in the system - so long as you do it while it's cold.
  15. For me, I'd start by checking the prop shaft UJ's. You need to get the car on level ground, chock the wheels securely then take the handbrake off and gears in neutral, then get underneath and shake the prop shafts up/down & side to side at each end to see if there's any play in the joints. If there is, you want to get it sorted sooner rather than later, otherwise you could end up with knackered axle pinion or transfer box bearings and leaking seals.
  16. Sounds to me like the turbo boost had been adjusted too far, the pressure is monitored by the ECU and if it goes over the limit (1 bar?) the ECU goes into "limp" mode until it's shut down and re-started.
  17. On the bottom corners, I ended up drilling a hole through the card from the centre of the original plastic fitting and then used a large stainless self tapper big enough to get a grip on the plastic "socket" bit that's left in the door. It's visible on the outer face of the door card but only in the corner, but then, so are the spot welds on the outsides of the rear panels, It's a Land Rover after all.
  18. If its any comfort, I lived with this same fault on my Td5 90 for 3 years or more and it never got any worse. Sold the car on last year with it still doing it and I suspect it still is.
  19. crwoody


    As you rightly say, the 1999 - 2002 ECU's are non "flashable" but it's still possible to get an upgrade chip fitted inside which is essentially a re-programmed memory replacing the original, I had a "SuperChip" one in my old Td5 90 and it went very well. I got a later (2004) ECU for it after I had a problem with the original one and it was never quite right, it was always looking for inputs which weren't there and ran really rough while cold. Another simple and relatively cheap power upgrade is get rid of the centre silencer box and fit a straight through pipe, it reduces the exhaust back pressure and allows the turbo to spin up more quickly. Makes a good noise too
  20. Try getting someone to gently turn the steering wheel back & forth while you line it up.
  21. The steering damper wont move in or out by itself, the standard one is not spring loaded, otherwise it would create a "bias" to the steering direction. So long as it offers reasonable resistance when pushing it in or out and it's not leaking, it's probably OK.
  22. I did my rear door like this : - Removed lock and drilled out the rivets to open it, removed the lock lever and bent the tab inside : - Drilled a hole through the bottom of the case to pass the operating rod through : - Then stuck it back on the door along with the actuator and adjustable extension rod : -
  23. Shouldn't really be a problem to just "double-up" on the wiring, it's only a permanent live feed and earth after all, so long as the feed is fused and ideally the earth should come from somewhere near the ECU rather than direct to the battery. (To avoid electrical noise issues.)
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