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crwoody

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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. Have you tried NFU? they are usually pretty relaxed about mods and have never charged me any admin fees for changes. Depends where you live though, they can be fussy about what home areas they will cover for. Still worth enquiring.
  2. crwoody

    speedo prob!

    Sounds like the cable was not fully seated at one end or the other, try re-fitting it and make sure the ends are properly located and screwed up tight.
  3. crwoody

    Main beam

    Yes you're right, as Fridge says there's no need to upgrade existing wiring if you're not taking any more power from it, the relay coil only takes a fraction of an amp, nothing to worry about.
  4. crwoody

    Main beam

    The last time I did this, I wired them through a relay from a decent capacity fused live feed, then just took a feed from the main beam circuit to drive the relay coil, also took the lamps earth return direct to chassis too, this way, it keeps them independent of the original light wiring and with no need for an extra switch.
  5. I got two tubes of the JCB blue from the same supplier last year, so they do sell it individually, worth getting in touch with them if you have no joy otherwise.
  6. Depends how quick you are with the swap. Not much in any case as it's fairly high up in the system - so long as you do it while it's cold.
  7. For me, I'd start by checking the prop shaft UJ's. You need to get the car on level ground, chock the wheels securely then take the handbrake off and gears in neutral, then get underneath and shake the prop shafts up/down & side to side at each end to see if there's any play in the joints. If there is, you want to get it sorted sooner rather than later, otherwise you could end up with knackered axle pinion or transfer box bearings and leaking seals.
  8. Sounds to me like the turbo boost had been adjusted too far, the pressure is monitored by the ECU and if it goes over the limit (1 bar?) the ECU goes into "limp" mode until it's shut down and re-started.
  9. On the bottom corners, I ended up drilling a hole through the card from the centre of the original plastic fitting and then used a large stainless self tapper big enough to get a grip on the plastic "socket" bit that's left in the door. It's visible on the outer face of the door card but only in the corner, but then, so are the spot welds on the outsides of the rear panels, It's a Land Rover after all.
  10. If its any comfort, I lived with this same fault on my Td5 90 for 3 years or more and it never got any worse. Sold the car on last year with it still doing it and I suspect it still is.
  11. crwoody

    ECUs

    As you rightly say, the 1999 - 2002 ECU's are non "flashable" but it's still possible to get an upgrade chip fitted inside which is essentially a re-programmed memory replacing the original, I had a "SuperChip" one in my old Td5 90 and it went very well. I got a later (2004) ECU for it after I had a problem with the original one and it was never quite right, it was always looking for inputs which weren't there and ran really rough while cold. Another simple and relatively cheap power upgrade is get rid of the centre silencer box and fit a straight through pipe, it reduces the exhaust back pressure and allows the turbo to spin up more quickly. Makes a good noise too
  12. Try getting someone to gently turn the steering wheel back & forth while you line it up.
  13. The steering damper wont move in or out by itself, the standard one is not spring loaded, otherwise it would create a "bias" to the steering direction. So long as it offers reasonable resistance when pushing it in or out and it's not leaking, it's probably OK.
  14. I did my rear door like this : - Removed lock and drilled out the rivets to open it, removed the lock lever and bent the tab inside : - Drilled a hole through the bottom of the case to pass the operating rod through : - Then stuck it back on the door along with the actuator and adjustable extension rod : -
  15. Shouldn't really be a problem to just "double-up" on the wiring, it's only a permanent live feed and earth after all, so long as the feed is fused and ideally the earth should come from somewhere near the ECU rather than direct to the battery. (To avoid electrical noise issues.)
  16. The purple wire should run directly from the fuse to the diagnostic socket as per the diagram. The headers referred to are connection blocks where a number of wires connect together, looks a bit like a connector plug but not plugged into anything. There are usually several different colours of wires in them and all the wires of the same colour would be connected together but insulated from the other colour "groups". I seem to remember there is one tucked in with the passenger compartment fuse box (above the gearbox tunnel) and a couple more under the drivers seat where the ECU is, I'm not sure where "K109" is but it could be one of those next to the ECU. I hope this helps.
  17. If there's 12 volts getting to pin 16 of the connector and an earth on 4 & 5, I can't really think of anything other than a dirty or damaged connector, It's a bit vulnerable where it's mounted.
  18. There are two fuses in line with the diagnostic connector supply, I suspect one of those will be blown, probably fuse 8 (5 amp.)
  19. Lidl had one on offer recently, very similar spec to the Ctek one but a fraction of the price, might be worth checking if they still have any, I got one the previous time it was offered and it's been very good. http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg//SID-D9738246-79F74F74/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_14694.htm?offerdate=&idcheck=true&ar2
  20. Something wrong there ?? Disco 3 has been out since '04, I can't imagine anyone holding onto stock for 4 years before registering it??
  21. Sounds to me like one of the inlet valves is not closing / sealing properly. First I'd check the valve clearances as Tetsu0san suggests, maybe one's just sticking a bit - or perhaps there's a broken valve spring. What engine is it? EDIT; Just read the thread title properly
  22. You may find, as I did, that the speedo "over-reads" the speed anyway with the standard tyre size on. Comparing the speed shown on the speedo with the value given by a GPS device, mine showed about 10% over, IE. indicated road speed (on speedo) about 33 mph while on GPS at 30 mph, this was consistent throughout the speed range. Fitting over-size tyres simply corrected for this error and meant that the speedo was spot on.
  23. Doesn't really matter how many Amp Hour the new battery is, the alternator will simply put back what everything else takes out, unless of course you've added lots of other electrical goodies. If the total continuous electrical drain on the system exceeds 65 Amps then there will be none left for the battery, that seems unlikely though.
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