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crwoody

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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. To the best of my understanding - and I'm happy to be corrected here, the main (injector) fuel pump is designed to deliver fuel at a high pressure and precise timings to the injectors, but is not designed to suck fuel from the tank, so the lift pump has the job of getting fuel from the tank to supply the injector pump. If the lift pump is "dodgy", I would suggest starting or running at any speed where the fuel demand is higher may be a problem.
  2. Hi and welcome. Your experience of the Hi/Lo & Difflock lever sounds about right, they're not very positive, but the difflock light comes on as a result of a switch triggered by the mechanical linkage within the transfer box, so you can be sure it's engaged if it says so. The MPG is not so great compared to a little Euro box car especially at 70, don't forget you've got a 2 ton wardrobe on wheels with a drag factor to suit, if you bumble along with (behind) the big trucks it wont be so bad. Defender heaters are notoriously poor too, there are some threads about it on here though, getting the control linkages right can help a lot. Enjoy it for what it is, despite all the bad points they still put a smile on yer face. EDIT; Forgot to mention before, the drive train clunk is again somewhat "normal" to a degree, there are various reasons for it, normally involving wear and play in various connecting parts, it was one of the things that concerned me when I got my first one. Hopefully your mechanic will be able to put your mind at ease, or at least point you in the right direction.
  3. If the alternator is working properly and connected to the battery, you should see about 14 volts at the battery with the engine running, if the battery is disconnected from the system, the alternator output voltage will rise to maybe 18 volts or so, it probably won't do any harm to the alternator but the rest of your electrics may fry and bulbs go pop! I you're only seeing battery volts of 12v or so, with the alt connected and the battery light is on, then I would say you have a duff alternator. It may be the diode pack that's given up the ghost, or it could just be the brushes that have worn out or become encrusted with crud, either way it's most likely repairable, or of course a replacement would be easier, then you can always repair the old one and keep it as a spare.
  4. Depends what kind of meter you're using, a 21 watt indicator bulb for example is only about 0.5 ohm, your meter may not have sufficient resolution to indicate this correctly, on the other hand of course, you could have a short in the lamp wiring. Try removing the bulb and check the resistance again, if it's still very low it suggests you have a short in the wiring, it's very unlikely that the bulb itself would have gone short circuit.
  5. Like Bosh says, zinc oxide is a no-no but zinc metal itself is a perfectly good electrical conductor with a similar conductivity to brass, so there should be no problems there.
  6. Also, the waste gate lever could have come undone from the diaphragm rod if the lock nut has come loose. That causes a severe loss of oomph.
  7. crwoody

    +VE/-VE

    They are simply abbreviations for positive (+) and negative (-)
  8. crwoody

    HELP!

    You've not ended up with Vmax petrol instead of diesel have you?
  9. The pulse generator idea would work, a simple electronic pulse generator will do it, it could take some time though, I don't know the maximum frequency that it could run at, but there is a limit. If you want to increase the mileage a bit it wouldn't be too bad, but to reduce it you'd have to run it all the way up to 999'999 and start again.
  10. If there is a clunk and the lights dim, that sounds like the starter is working (after a fashion,) this suggests that possibly the starter pinion is jamming in the ring gear, either that or the battery is really low. A pain I know, but if the battery is OK, it might be worth removing the starter again and make sure everything is OK inside, was it a new one or recon/secondhand? I would say it's not a problem with the ECU, that would prevent any kind of operation of the starter if it was immobilised, no clicks or clunks at all.
  11. " ... where exactly do i attach it to?? the thick wire attached by a bolt or the thin wire with the connector?? ..." Whatever you do DO NOT connect an earth wire to either of these two, the starter motor earth is normally connected via the engine block, there should be one already connected, you just need to be sure it's secure. If you're getting a clunk noise from the starter motor area, it sounds like at least the solenoid is operating, you need to determine whether the starter itself is doing anything. Do the lights dim at all when the starter is operated?
  12. As above (M&S) The starter solenoid contacts can get pretty badly worn and pitted over time. The problem with simply cleaning them is that if they don't sit level, I.E. they're worn unevenly, the contact disc on the solenoid plunger only makes contact on one side and therefore fails to complete the circuit. I replaced the full contact set on mine a while ago for the same reason. Of course if it's only the relay that's clicking, you have a different (maybe simpler) problem.
  13. As above, (the fanbelt option,) but it helps no end if you have a buzz gun too, the impact action is very good for reluctant nuts where you have limited grip on the shaft it's attached to.
  14. Very unlikely for a relatively small gasket to fail spontaneously, I'd say it's almost certainly the pump. The pump bearing is likely to be on the way out, excess movement here causes wear on the seal, try removing the belt and see if there's any play on the shaft.
  15. Not an uncommon problem I think, because the heater air intake is on the top of the wing, it tends to get a fair bit of water going in there. There should be a rubber "Duck Bill" drainage point on the bottom of the inlet pipe/box under the wing top, these are inclined to get full of crud and block up thus preventing drainage. I'd start there first.
  16. As e4yob says above, the lack of access to the battery is easily solved by adding a connector somewhere accessible, on mine, I fitted an Anderson connector just inside the rear door and wired a set of jump leads to the other half of the connector. (The rear seat was removed merely to gain storage space.) Being a Td5, the only other access problem then was the ECU, but it's not a big deal to remove the seat for the odd time when it might need to be got at.
  17. I had a set of Ford RS2000 Recaro seats in one of my Def'ners for a while, very comfortable to sit in but a pain to get in & out of the car, the trouble is that the seat bases are deeper than the standard seats, add to that the raised seat base bolster and the backwards tilt on the seatbox, it becomes near impossible to get in and get your legs under the steering wheel. Uncomfortable for a passenger with short legs too, they're left with their legs dangling in the footwell and unable to reach the floor.
  18. There is a diode in series with the wire you mentioned, probably in the dash somewhere, (there was a post about this yesterday!) Does the alternator warning light on the dash come on with the ignition off? If so it may be that this extra diode is shorted.
  19. When you say "... its still flapping about ..." do you mean the spring loaded tensioner or just the belt? I think the belt flapping about is not unusual to a degree, more so when the engine is just ticking over, I know my old Td5 used to do it, I've just been out and checked the one I have now and it does it too but a lot less. If it's as bad as you suggest, I think I'd try a new belt first, maybe it's worn unevenly. While you've got the belt off, it's worth checking that all the other pulleys turn easily without any undue stiffness or noise, I've has to replace a few bearings in that area due to water/mud getting through the seals and wrecking the bearings. As for the leak, I have to say I've never had a problem here so I can't say.
  20. I guess you mean "Diode (G182)" (bottom centre,) it will be there in order to block any reverse current flow when the ignition is off. I can't tell you where it would be physically, I would have assumed that it's built-in on some alternators, not easy to tell though, but without that wire connected to the alternator your battery will not charge. The "whistling" noise from the alternator could be due to heavy loading if the battery is badly discharged, I would suggest you put a voltmeter on the battery to check that it's not overcharging.
  21. Or you could wire the spot light relay feed from the main beam switch in the normal way and then fit a seperate dash mounted switch to turn off just the main beam headlights when you don't want them.
  22. Sounds like either the adaptor fittings on the ends of the spindles have come loose or there's just too much play or wear in the cable drive gearboxes. On the gearbox there is back plate which holds the connecting tubes that the cable runs through, if these work loose you'll get a similar effect. If you take the dash top off, you can get to the gearboxes and see what's going on and maybe tighten it all up, it's a bit fiddly but do-able.
  23. That's Land Rovers for you
  24. Last time I had badly wet footwells it was the foam seal around the bulkhead vents at fault. They looked OK at a glance, but a closer look revealed that the strips along the top and bottom had come unstuck, so the foam was sagging down and not sealing against the lip around the bulkhead opening. I also had it gushing into both footwells from the heater "knee level" vents, but that was after some heavy-duty wading when I forgot to shut off the heater.
  25. Yes, there is a wire to a switch on the T/box but it might also be that the switch has come loose and needs adjusting. It's mounted through a threaded hole with an operating pin through the centre of the switch, adjust it by turning the switch body, remember to tighten the locknut after it's in the right place. The switch is just below the hi/lo lever shown as 10 with 2 vertical pins for the wires.
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