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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. Yes, there is a wire to a switch on the T/box but it might also be that the switch has come loose and needs adjusting. It's mounted through a threaded hole with an operating pin through the centre of the switch, adjust it by turning the switch body, remember to tighten the locknut after it's in the right place. The switch is just below the hi/lo lever shown as 10 with 2 vertical pins for the wires.
  2. The throttle response it deliberately altered through the ECU when low-box is selected. You need to press the pedal twice as far for a given rise in revs. It's supposed to make it easier and smoother to control the power at low speed, it is possible to by-pass the switch though.
  3. Sounds like you need to try it in gear with the difflock off and take a look to see if either of the propshafts are spinning, try it with the handbrake on first though - you don't want to get run over by your own car - it's not very nice. ( don't ask me how I know ) Edit; beaten to it
  4. That could be a bit of a give-away then, sounds like the engine to body earth is coming through the brake cable and any other vague connection it can find. I remember having similar problems with a old Mini many years ago where the throttle & choke cables used to smoke on starting the engine
  5. Not necessarily a fault with the headlight earth wiring specifically. It depends what year car it is, they are wired up differently depending on age/generation. Some (most?) are wired with the main battery earth from battery to chassis and then linked to the engine block, but if it's wired from battery to engine and then to body, the starter will fire up OK but if the connection from engine to chassis/body is loose/dirty/corroded then you could get the symptoms described.
  6. Yes, NanoCom is a Land Rover specific diagnostic tool which can be used as stand-alone or in conjunction with a computer. I've had mine for about 3 years now and never even noticed the "DEF ABS" screen but here it is - So maybe that's your solution.
  7. Just to add to the above, removing the cat / centre box does indeed significantly reduce the back-pressure, this increases the speed at which the turbo spins-up and applies boost so the throttle response in noticeably improved.
  8. I'm not sure about the Defender with ABS (not had one,) but I know that there was a routine on the VagCom software for the Audi A3 I used to have, there was a procedure for running the ABS modulator through it's paces as part of the brake bleeding routine, I suspect that there are places - cavities? within the modulator that need to be emptied of trapped air that can only be done by a diagnostics routine. Of course, I could be speaking into my trousers here, maybe a grown-up will be along shortly.
  9. I had a Superchip tune on my old Td5 along with a straight-through centre section and no cat, it went like the clappers and sounded great No problems at all with the turbo over a couple of years or so including some long trips down through France. (85 - 90 on the autoroutes ) The turbo will only spin up fast enough to achieve the maximum boost pressure, once this is reached the wastegate opens to limit/regulate it so the turbo and engine is "protected" against overboost.
  10. There are four separate fuses, one for each light, (2 x dip + 2 x main,) so four separate wires from passenger compartment fusebox to the lights, not sure what route they take though. Turquoise/Black for RH dip & Turquoise/Pink for LH dip, fuse 22 & 23 resp.
  11. As Peter says - "Dim Dip" - the dipped beam filament of the headlight is fed with a reduced voltage, (via a resistor) when the sidelights and ignition are switched on together.
  12. Sounds like exhaust manifold leaking at one of the cylinder head joints to me. Edit; But then again, on a second listen, there seems to be more going on in there.
  13. That is just sooooo wrong on every level
  14. Nasty - sounds like a bit of quick underwear change moment. Seriously though, it sounds to me that the caliper wasn't tightened up/refitted properly, has it been off recently? I must admit that I've never heard of a caliper coming loose. Generally speaking, the bolts/fixing are fit for purpose so long as the correct torque/ locking method has been applied, on that basis I would not have thought it was worth trying to re-invent the wheel - but I can certainly understand your concern.
  15. Might just be worth checking the engine oil level and see if it smells of diesel - especially if it's a bit high. A number of Td5's have been known to have problems with injector seals which allows diesel into the engine oil, but it could also be a crack in the head.
  16. I suppose the best indication that it's working is if you can hear it "roaring" when you rev the engine after being stationary for a long time with the engine ticking over (usually once the temp gauge starts to rise.) The other way is to stick your hand in there and see how many fingers it takes off before stopping. My Td5 used to do this quite regularly when stuck in traffic jams. When on the move though, there is usually enough airflow over the coupling to prevent this. Even if it doesn't get to the fully locked up (roaring) stage, there's usually enough coupling across the viscous unit to provide a fair degree of cooling. If you're not getting it actually overheating, I wouldn't worry too much. I've had one seize up altogether once, but then you get the roaring all the time so its pretty obvious then.
  17. It suggests to me a short to earth somewhere along the wire from the sender to lamp, perhaps one that's aggravated by the movement of the engine when it's running? It's a very simple circuit with a 12v feed to the lamp, a wire from the lamp to the switch then the switch to earth via the engine block, so if the lamp is coming on when it shouldn't it can only be a very few things. Have you tried checking the white/brown wire resistance to earth with both ends disconnected - engine running/stopped? Maybe also to check the pressure switch connector resistance to earth with the wire disconnected, again with engine running/stopped. The only other thing I could think of here is some kind of blockage in the oil feed to the pressure switch but I would have thought that any problem here would have been cleared by removing/replacing the switch and pressure testing.
  18. I can't see how it would do any harm, if the heater is set to cold then there should be no airflow over the heater matrix, so there's no additional cooling to the system anyway. To divert the flow and bypass the matrix would be a nice idea but would require a far more complex valving arrangement, it's debatable whether it would be worth it.
  19. Not a silly question at all. This might help - (From Defender 00MY user manual page 103.) This applies to late 300Tdi's and Td5's, they all have the 10AS alarm ecu.
  20. You can get a plug-to-socket extension cable for the Td5 ECU, so that should save chopping the original loom. As to the relays, I guess they should be easy enough to move, generally just four wires to each one. To be honest though, I had my 90 sat in 3 or 4 feet of water at times, frequently up to the door handles, even floating at one point (until the footwells filled up!) even then it was never really an issue, OK so there was some water in the seatbox afterwards but I just siphoned it out. If the seatbox is full of holes, it might be worth plugging them first though. It appears (on mine anyway) to get in from the top, the cover doesn't even attempt to seal, so once the back of the seatbox is under water it pours in, however, by this time the throttle potentiometer is also under water - so there's another one to think about. Edited to add: - One point to watch out for; next to the ECU there are two (or one, depending on age) connecting blocks or "headers" where there are a number of wires joined together, these are very definitely NOT waterproof and will allow current to pass between some rather sensitive connections when wet - that's the one area I did have a problem with and would not be solved simply by moving the ECU.
  21. " ...They cost themselves a 90 mile recovery......idiots....." Free ride home, must have saved you 3 or 4 gallons of juice - don't knock it
  22. You need the 10AS to operate the LR central locking with a LR keyfob, it also ties in with the Td5 engine ECU and I'm pretty sure it wont work without it . However an aftermarket central locking system can be set up independently of it quite easily, not so sure about getting it to work with an immobiliser though.
  23. I ran my chipped Td5 90 (pre cat) with a straight through system for several years, never had a problem with the Law or MOT's. I did put the centre box back on for a long road trip down to the Pyrenees once, only because I thought the noise might be obtrusive on a long journey, I soon took it back off though when I realised how much difference it makes to the power.
  24. I'm inclined to agree with Western there, however, if you must, for such threading exercises I normally use a length of net curtain wire to push through first, I've not tried it on a chassis though and I would imagine there are plenty of places where it could get snagged.
  25. I would bin the standard Defender screw jack and get hold of a Discovery (1 or 2) hydraulic one instead. The Disco one is shaped at the top to fit under the end of the axle, so you only have to lift a little bit to get the wheel off the ground instead of having to jack the whole body up, fully extending the suspension, before the wheel lifts. They're a lot more compact too.
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