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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. Shouldn't really be a problem to just "double-up" on the wiring, it's only a permanent live feed and earth after all, so long as the feed is fused and ideally the earth should come from somewhere near the ECU rather than direct to the battery. (To avoid electrical noise issues.)
  2. The purple wire should run directly from the fuse to the diagnostic socket as per the diagram. The headers referred to are connection blocks where a number of wires connect together, looks a bit like a connector plug but not plugged into anything. There are usually several different colours of wires in them and all the wires of the same colour would be connected together but insulated from the other colour "groups". I seem to remember there is one tucked in with the passenger compartment fuse box (above the gearbox tunnel) and a couple more under the drivers seat where the ECU is, I'm not sure where "K109" is but it could be one of those next to the ECU. I hope this helps.
  3. If there's 12 volts getting to pin 16 of the connector and an earth on 4 & 5, I can't really think of anything other than a dirty or damaged connector, It's a bit vulnerable where it's mounted.
  4. There are two fuses in line with the diagnostic connector supply, I suspect one of those will be blown, probably fuse 8 (5 amp.)
  5. Lidl had one on offer recently, very similar spec to the Ctek one but a fraction of the price, might be worth checking if they still have any, I got one the previous time it was offered and it's been very good. http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg//SID-D9738246-79F74F74/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_14694.htm?offerdate=&idcheck=true&ar2
  6. Something wrong there ?? Disco 3 has been out since '04, I can't imagine anyone holding onto stock for 4 years before registering it??
  7. Sounds to me like one of the inlet valves is not closing / sealing properly. First I'd check the valve clearances as Tetsu0san suggests, maybe one's just sticking a bit - or perhaps there's a broken valve spring. What engine is it? EDIT; Just read the thread title properly
  8. You may find, as I did, that the speedo "over-reads" the speed anyway with the standard tyre size on. Comparing the speed shown on the speedo with the value given by a GPS device, mine showed about 10% over, IE. indicated road speed (on speedo) about 33 mph while on GPS at 30 mph, this was consistent throughout the speed range. Fitting over-size tyres simply corrected for this error and meant that the speedo was spot on.
  9. Doesn't really matter how many Amp Hour the new battery is, the alternator will simply put back what everything else takes out, unless of course you've added lots of other electrical goodies. If the total continuous electrical drain on the system exceeds 65 Amps then there will be none left for the battery, that seems unlikely though.
  10. To the best of my understanding - and I'm happy to be corrected here, the main (injector) fuel pump is designed to deliver fuel at a high pressure and precise timings to the injectors, but is not designed to suck fuel from the tank, so the lift pump has the job of getting fuel from the tank to supply the injector pump. If the lift pump is "dodgy", I would suggest starting or running at any speed where the fuel demand is higher may be a problem.
  11. Hi and welcome. Your experience of the Hi/Lo & Difflock lever sounds about right, they're not very positive, but the difflock light comes on as a result of a switch triggered by the mechanical linkage within the transfer box, so you can be sure it's engaged if it says so. The MPG is not so great compared to a little Euro box car especially at 70, don't forget you've got a 2 ton wardrobe on wheels with a drag factor to suit, if you bumble along with (behind) the big trucks it wont be so bad. Defender heaters are notoriously poor too, there are some threads about it on here though, getting the control linkages right can help a lot. Enjoy it for what it is, despite all the bad points they still put a smile on yer face. EDIT; Forgot to mention before, the drive train clunk is again somewhat "normal" to a degree, there are various reasons for it, normally involving wear and play in various connecting parts, it was one of the things that concerned me when I got my first one. Hopefully your mechanic will be able to put your mind at ease, or at least point you in the right direction.
  12. If the alternator is working properly and connected to the battery, you should see about 14 volts at the battery with the engine running, if the battery is disconnected from the system, the alternator output voltage will rise to maybe 18 volts or so, it probably won't do any harm to the alternator but the rest of your electrics may fry and bulbs go pop! I you're only seeing battery volts of 12v or so, with the alt connected and the battery light is on, then I would say you have a duff alternator. It may be the diode pack that's given up the ghost, or it could just be the brushes that have worn out or become encrusted with crud, either way it's most likely repairable, or of course a replacement would be easier, then you can always repair the old one and keep it as a spare.
  13. Depends what kind of meter you're using, a 21 watt indicator bulb for example is only about 0.5 ohm, your meter may not have sufficient resolution to indicate this correctly, on the other hand of course, you could have a short in the lamp wiring. Try removing the bulb and check the resistance again, if it's still very low it suggests you have a short in the wiring, it's very unlikely that the bulb itself would have gone short circuit.
  14. Like Bosh says, zinc oxide is a no-no but zinc metal itself is a perfectly good electrical conductor with a similar conductivity to brass, so there should be no problems there.
  15. Also, the waste gate lever could have come undone from the diaphragm rod if the lock nut has come loose. That causes a severe loss of oomph.
  16. crwoody


    They are simply abbreviations for positive (+) and negative (-)
  17. crwoody


    You've not ended up with Vmax petrol instead of diesel have you?
  18. The pulse generator idea would work, a simple electronic pulse generator will do it, it could take some time though, I don't know the maximum frequency that it could run at, but there is a limit. If you want to increase the mileage a bit it wouldn't be too bad, but to reduce it you'd have to run it all the way up to 999'999 and start again.
  19. If there is a clunk and the lights dim, that sounds like the starter is working (after a fashion,) this suggests that possibly the starter pinion is jamming in the ring gear, either that or the battery is really low. A pain I know, but if the battery is OK, it might be worth removing the starter again and make sure everything is OK inside, was it a new one or recon/secondhand? I would say it's not a problem with the ECU, that would prevent any kind of operation of the starter if it was immobilised, no clicks or clunks at all.
  20. " ... where exactly do i attach it to?? the thick wire attached by a bolt or the thin wire with the connector?? ..." Whatever you do DO NOT connect an earth wire to either of these two, the starter motor earth is normally connected via the engine block, there should be one already connected, you just need to be sure it's secure. If you're getting a clunk noise from the starter motor area, it sounds like at least the solenoid is operating, you need to determine whether the starter itself is doing anything. Do the lights dim at all when the starter is operated?
  21. As above (M&S) The starter solenoid contacts can get pretty badly worn and pitted over time. The problem with simply cleaning them is that if they don't sit level, I.E. they're worn unevenly, the contact disc on the solenoid plunger only makes contact on one side and therefore fails to complete the circuit. I replaced the full contact set on mine a while ago for the same reason. Of course if it's only the relay that's clicking, you have a different (maybe simpler) problem.
  22. As above, (the fanbelt option,) but it helps no end if you have a buzz gun too, the impact action is very good for reluctant nuts where you have limited grip on the shaft it's attached to.
  23. Very unlikely for a relatively small gasket to fail spontaneously, I'd say it's almost certainly the pump. The pump bearing is likely to be on the way out, excess movement here causes wear on the seal, try removing the belt and see if there's any play on the shaft.
  24. Not an uncommon problem I think, because the heater air intake is on the top of the wing, it tends to get a fair bit of water going in there. There should be a rubber "Duck Bill" drainage point on the bottom of the inlet pipe/box under the wing top, these are inclined to get full of crud and block up thus preventing drainage. I'd start there first.
  25. As e4yob says above, the lack of access to the battery is easily solved by adding a connector somewhere accessible, on mine, I fitted an Anderson connector just inside the rear door and wired a set of jump leads to the other half of the connector. (The rear seat was removed merely to gain storage space.) Being a Td5, the only other access problem then was the ECU, but it's not a big deal to remove the seat for the odd time when it might need to be got at.
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