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crwoody

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Posts posted by crwoody

  1. Not really sure if you can deactivate the CDL, the info isn't really clear on that, I've changed a few settings on mine with my Nanocom but never wanted to disable the locking.

    I guess you could always just disconnect pins 2 & 3 of the green plug to isolate it, that would seem to be the most secure way to disable it without fear of a glitch in the 10AS inadvertently driving the lock output regardless of how it's set.

    Lucas 10-AS Alarm ECU Guide.pdf

  2. Usually done with a "Header block", looks like a multi-way connector that's not actually plugged into anything, all the separate wires connect together internally.

    Some are multi circuit where there's more than one circuit in the same block.

    There are quite a few around, some behind the dash and a couple in the seat box next to the engine ECU.

  3. It depends on how it was wired with the Carling switch and whether the original timer module is still there.

    The original Td5 heated windscreen wiring includes a timer relay, the switch is a momentary contact type which provides a brief input to the timer to start it and activate the heater for a short period of time. 

    If there is no timer relay fitted then either type of switch would work the same but it would ideally need to be switched via a normal relay, the screen heater takes a fair bit of current and I doubt the switch contacts would last for long. 

    Also it's not ideal to leave the screen heater turned on for extended periods, that's why there's a timer on the original setup.

  4. Personally, I don't believe the small amount of dissolved adhesive would cause any problems when diluted by a decent amount of fuel in the tank, it's primarily a blend of hydrocarbon resins anyway and should disappear without trace. 

    As to the backing tape, I agree that it "could" get picked up by the strainer, but I would see that as very unlikely with the filter gauze pointing down so as to speak, plus the fact that the strainer is normally far enough above the bottom of the tank to prevent stuff from getting picked up.

  5. That's just a flat battery, enough power to bring on the lights but not enough power to turn the starter which takes a huge amount more.

    Get it on charge for a few hours or so, (depending on what capacity charger you have,) or jump start it from another vehicle if available.

     

  6. The circuit diagram refers to the permanent live feed fuse as -  "F30,  Fuse box Satellite (P109)" so far as I can gather it's in the passenger compartment fuse box, in the single row on the left.

    The switched feed fuse is  "F17, Fuse box passenger compartment (P101)" in the upper right row.

    It's also worth checking the common earth header on the bulkhead, behind the coolant expansion bottle, I've had them come loose before.

    https://www.lrworkshop.com/electrics/defender-2002my/fuse-boxes-earths-and-headers

     

     

     

  7. I had the same reluctance to start with cranking and misfiring issue with mine recently, like yours it would sometimes flatten the battery before I could get it going. It turned out to be a fault with the starter motor, it either had worn motor brushes or a partially shorted armature, I couldn't be sure which but either way it was producing a significant amount of electrical noise when cranking and this was upsetting the crank sensor, I was getting persistent "Noisy Crank Signal" errors whenever I checked. A replacement starter motor solved it immediately for me.

    If you're able to park on a slope or hill, an easy way to eliminate this is to try bump starting it to see if that has any effect.

    Are you able to see if there are any faults logged?

     

     

  8. Yes that makes perfect sense, it's known as "Dim/Dip" and it's where the headlight dipped beam filaments are illuminated at low power, (through a resistor,) when sidelights and ignition are on.

    As far as I know it was introduced due to upcoming regulations some years ago which I believe were never implemented and are not a legal requirement, although the function continued well into the Td5 generations, (my 2004 90 had them.)

    There is a relay which controls this function, on a Td5 it's behind the dash binnacle, it's possible either the relay itself has failed or maybe the resistor has given up. To be honest though, a lot of defender owners have disabled the function either by removing the relay and by-passing it or simply disconnecting the resistor. It looks like yours has pre-empted this and taken it upon itself to self-disable.

  9. On 2/24/2020 at 8:17 PM, isbjorn said:

    This only lets me recline the seat more right? I would rather move the whole seatbase backwards (without lifitng it). Never found the seating position bad, only missing a bit of legroom.

     

     

    Removing the bulkhead allows the whole seatbase to move further back on it's runners, (on a 90 hardtop anyway,) yes it would allow more recline if you wanted to but it doesn't really effect the height other than perhaps reducing it by a mm or two due to the slope of the base.

     

    300F724B-F658-4A82-BCE6-AD29465B011E_1_105_c.jpeg

    296FAFA0-88C6-47AB-B13A-732AF769394A_1_105_c.jpeg

  10. I've had the same problem with my 2004 Td5 90, getting more reluctant to start, sometime running the battery flat in the process. however when it does start, it runs perfectly well.

    I checked with my Nanocom and found it was giving a "noisy crank signal" fault. If i parked on a slope and bump-started it, it would fire up right away but was always reluctant on the starter, hot or cold.

    The fix was to replace the starter motor, although it would spin over normally, I suspect the motor brushes were worn and causing sparking, enough to interfere with the crank signal, the sensor is fairly close and being electromagnetic it's susceptible to such interference.

    It now starts instantly on the first flick of the key, happy bunny now 😊

  11. 17 hours ago, Bigj66 said:

     

    ... Ordinarily, you would expect a fuse to blow if there was even a temporary short to earth but maybe this is just an odd case 🤷‍♂️

    Not necessarily, modern(ish) automotive fuses seem to have a huge overload tolerance, such that rubbing an exposed wire against a dirty or corroded metal surface can cause sufficient electrical disturbance to cause errors in the system but not pass enough current to blow a fuse, depending on what circuit it's connected to of course.

    Similarly, a lot of the sensor inputs into most ECU's operate at a very low power such that a minor leak to earth or to another conductor can cause some unpredictable faults, for example the intermittently self-opening tailgate on my Freelander 2 which turned out to be due to moisture inside the switch in the tailgate handle.

    Or, on one of my previous Td5 90's which would intermittently fail to start with one of the relays making a squealing noise, this turned out to be water ingress (again) into one of the multi-way "headers" under the driver seat box causing electrical leakage between 5V, 12V and ground.

  12. Hi and welcome.

    As you've already alluded to, you really need to see what fault codes are present, anything else is purely guesswork and can end up quite expensive, if it's bringing the MIL on during the fault condition this will be logged and remain in memory even after it's self cleared.

    Even if the in-tank fuel pump isn't running, the engine will still start and run, albeit with reduced power, there is sufficient "lift" from the injectors to allow this.

    If the main relay under the seatbox or the crash sensor on the bulkhead drops out,  the engine will stop but won't put the MIL on, it's the same as switching the ignition off and not seen as an error.

    If the crank sensor failed, that would cause the engine to stop but it's very unlikely to be "self-healing" by cycling the ignition.

    It's always worth checking for any add-on aftermarket alarm wiring or mystery boxes of any kind, these can often make fault finding notoriously difficult.

    as I said before, getting a code reader on there must be the first priority.

     

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