crwoody

I've no doubt the UJ failure would have caused the demise of the bearing and seal, as I said before you need to sort it asap, then, hopefully the bearing and seal are all you'll need, apart from a good cleanup. After I drained the crud out of mine, I flushed it with some old engine oil a couple of times to get the worst out before I had it rebuilt, the bearing and seal were the only fatalities.

I had this with my 90 a couple of years ago, it started with a knackered rear prop UJ, (bad vibration but higher frequency than a wheel out of balance.) The unbalanced prop shook the guts out of the axle input shaft bearing and seal intil it spat out most of it's diff oil. Foolishly I ignored it for a bit too long and the diff ended up full of a nasty mud emulsion which caused some wear to the gears and a lot of whining noise. I've had it re-built and added a locker (seemed silly not to while it's in bits,) but it's still noisy, though nowhere near as bad as before. The morale of the story is - get it sorted sooner rather than later, the sooner it's fixed the less its likely to cost.

The important thing to remember about any cb antenna is that the "ground" connection is just that. It's not necesarily earth as such (as in battery earth) but a connection to a "Ground plane", or a conductive mass to form the other pole of the dipole. A radio recieving or transmitting aerial needs two connections in order to complete a circuit, but at radio frequencies the ground side does not necesarily need a good connection to the vehicle (battery) earth so long as it connects securely to a large enough mass at the aerial end, a roof is ideal and aluminium is a good conductor.

If you look in the folder where Nanocom is installed on the PC, normally C:\Program Files\Nanocom, you will find a file called - NANOCOM Map Wizard.exe, double click it and it shows a list of map files and related info, select the one you want and press "Generate Nanocom File", it will then ask where you want to save it. Once saved, you can load it to the Nanocom unit and from there transfer it to the ECU.

IIRC the two on the left side, (looking from the radiator end) go into captive nuts, the other two on the right screw directly in to M8 tapped holes in the cylinder head. Edit; Just been for a look. One on the left into a captive nut, the nut is attached to a bracket off the inlet manifold.

From what I remember from the last 2.5td I had, when they're in place, the edges of the "hot-spots" overlap the edge of the cylinder bore and can't fall out once the head is fitted. As for the grease, ordinary GP grease did it for me, it's only a temporary "glue" and will burn off once the engine is started.

The hazard switch by-passes the normal indicator switch to connect both sides to a permanent live via the flasher. It sounds like your hazard switch has seen better days, a new one should fix it.

Picture 1 is the OBD (On Board Diagnostics) connector to allow diagnostics connection to the Engine ECU which is the silver box under the seat in picture 3. Picture 2 is just one of the "commoning" connectors which is where multiple wires of the same colour/function are connected together, You should find two more of these next to the ECU. Edit; beaten to the post again!

I think it's a "Need to know" thing.

I've had spacers on my 90 for a few years now, no real problems except the wheel bearings take a bit more punishment, but so long as they're kept properly greased and adjusted there's no worries. I fitted mine to maintain a decent lock and clearance after fitting bigger tyres because I wanted to keep my original alloys. (Nothing to do with being Barry!!) To be honest, if you fit wheels with a greater offset to achieve the same thing without spacers, it will stress the bearings and swivels just the same. Thats why I made a point of getting some decent steel spacers, not the alloy ones where the extended stud can strip it's thread and fall out resulting in a wheel coming off.

I once drove mine about a 150 miles or so with the centre diff lock on, (the warning light wasn't working - thats my excuse anyway!) It concerned me at the time about long-term damage/problems but it doesn't appear to have had any ill effects. So long as the tyres are fairly well matched for size/wear, there shouldn't be too much transmission "wind-up".

NFU always gets my vote too, been with them a few years now and never had a problem. (Or a cheaper qoute.)

I've just measured mine (on my td5 90) and they're M16 x 90. (Thats the four bolts holding the front ends of the radius arms to the front axle.) I assume they are all the same.

It was an off the shelf one - from Scorpion IIRC. There are quite a few other suppliers though. Theres no cat on mine, (apart from the lazy sod that sleeps on the bonnet!!)

I don't know about the 2.8 TGV but I can vouch for the effectivenes of the SS centre box replacement on my td5. The turbo spins up more quickly presumably due to the reduced back pressure and results in a more responsive and better drive. I made the mistake of re-fitting the original centre box for a longish trip down through France to the Pyrenees, thinking it would be a more pleasant drive being a bit quieter - I really noticed the difference and couldn't wait to get back home and re-fit the pipe again.

I've stuck mine on the front bulkhead, engine side between the wing & brake servo, not too noisy there! I was going to connect the inlet pipe through the snorkel and run it up to the top but never got around to it, so it's just next to the coolant expansion tank for now. Never had a problem though. I've since added an air reservoir tank, (an old water fire extinuisher) between the chassis rails above the rear propshaft with a separate take-off for tyre inflating or air tools etc.

I've tried loads of different PC based generic OBD2 readers with several different interfaces and couldn't get any sense from any of them on my td5 Defender. The protocol used by LR appears to be very specific and only a dedicated solution would work properly, if at all. (Thats why I bought a Nanocom!) As d1scv says, Nanocom is a good economical solution although limited to td5 vehicles only, but then if you want a reader to work with a wide range of cars (like the AA do for example,) it will cost a fortune.

If you're on level ground with wheels chocked and one wheel lifted with an axle stand under the axle on that corner, I guess that about as safe as you can get it without access to a proper 4 post lift. It's always handy to have an assistant in the car at this stage to pull the handbrake on after you've rotated the prop to get best access to the nuts, (or climb in and do it yourself?) Centre diff lock on if you're doing the front prop. As for the bolts on the gearbox flange, I believe the flange has to come off, then you risk leaking EP90 while you change the bolts. I don't know any other way around this - maybe someone else knows better?

Same as white90, I also use a large syringe but I've replaced the short plastic pipe with about a metre of hose which allows me to thread it between the chassis and floor and use it upright from the side of the car, makes it a lot easier for doing the front and rear axle oils too.

I got mine from here: - http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/c...nders-131-p.asp

Could be a bit tricky with some of the options above, the td5 sump is cast alloy so it's a bit soft. The second option to drill it out and use a bigger plug gets my vote, just so long as you can find a suitable sized plug and a tap with the correct thread. Otherwise it may be a safer bet to just replace it? I've seen a few on eBlag lately, (i've been looking out for one for my spare engine, the old one's got a hole in it!)

There's the secret I think, anticipate slow-downs in advance and ease off the gas to compensate rather than caning it to the red light and stopping with a cloud of tyre smoke - then scream away again, (well, figuratively speaking.) I try to drive my D3 like a truck driver and it definately pays off.

I would be very very happy with 32 mpg, I normally get around 24 - 26 from mine, had it down to about 18 once, (caning it through France at about 80+ though.)

I would assume it's there to keep the centre line of the CV joint in line with the centre of the swivel bearings, having said that, it can't move any more than about 2 or 3 mm, I doubt if thats enough to cause any problems, but who knows? Edit; Les beat me to it !

Yes you can, there's no real problem with doing that except that you may not realize the full power of the amp. Whether you would really notice is another matter though. A higher impedance speaker will take less current from the amp and therefore deliver less power. Its a bit like comparing say, a 5 watt and 21 watt light bulb, they will both operate from 12 volts but the 21 watt one is brighter because the filament is a lower resistance so it draws more current. If you connect speakers of a lower impedance than that stated for the amp you are likely to damage the amp but going the other way isn't a problem. you could always double up on the output of an amp (carefully!) if an amp has a stated minimum load of 2 ohms you could safely connect two 4 ohm speakers to it in parallel. Clive