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crwoody

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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. Mine are about 90mm or 3½ inches in old money. Just big enough to do the job and to use as a step, not too big to get in the way.
  2. Like this? - Then for the rear door, I took the lock apart, bent the lock tab inside, drilled a couple of holes and connected a rod to it : - Then fixed the solenoid below it: - Clive.
  3. To be honest, it was that long ago I can't remember (other than that I got them off eBlagy) but I took a few pictures at the time and they look like the standard standard locking solenoids from almost anywhere - like these - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-2-Door-Cen...alenotsupported ISTR I got a 2 door kit like the one above and then bought an extra single solenoid for the back door. I cheated a bit because I used the existing alarm (it's a 2001 td5) and took an output from it to operate the locks when the immobiliser button is pressed on the keyfob. I also added leccy windows at about the same time, again they were aftermarket ones but came with the proper fitting switches for the later 2002+ dash which I've also added to my 90. Clive
  4. I use a pair of pliers to grip the end of the pin to give it a push, about the last 4-5 mm, dont squeeze too hard though, then use the flat end of the pliers to push it in the last bit. You're right though they're a PITA.
  5. How about adding a decent after-market remote central locking kit? Takes all the strain off the lock barrels and key, I did mine about 4 years ago and they still work fine. Clive
  6. I'm not so sure if they would be available as a separate spare since they appear to be moulded into the door card itself, (someone will surely be along shortly to correct me on this!) I've broken a few of them myself, I managed to fix a couple back on with superglue but in a couple of cases, (in the corners,) I have drilled through the centre and used a big self-tapper, the same size as for the floor panels, to screw into the plastic bush.
  7. I think it must be. My Td5 does it too, more of a groan than a squeek though, squirted loads of WD40 all around the pivot & spring - still the same, i just ignore it now.
  8. I tried the diesel in the oil treatment with my Td5 at the oil last change, (about a litre,) worked well enough for me too.
  9. Mud & crud or the rusultant corrosion is most likely jamming up the linkage. Removing the tranny tunnel is definately the easiest way to get to it, an easy enough job, (so long as all the screw heads are not rusted away.)
  10. Sorry if it's a bit late but it sounds to me like you have a faulty earth connection somewhere around the NS rear light area.
  11. Well, nobodys perfect. Seriously though, I would have thought they would have some sort of solution to the problem, maybe thats why they've not replied yet - they're still looking for the answer?
  12. That makes it clearer. So it's as I found the other day - just enter the code as it appears on the injector and NanoCom does the rest.
  13. Just a quick thought. When I said yesterday that I changed the settings for two of the injectors, I didn't change the injectors physically, just the code values in the ECU to see what effect it had on the numbers reported back on the NanoCom. Clive
  14. Hi Tony, the actual codes of the two injectors I tried changing are - NCNMC and NCNFC. Incidently, when I changed the second one and put in a "C", I inadvertantly put in a lower case "c", when I read it back, I got a completely different code in the third box then? (I dont remember the actual value.) I've just been looking at the "NanoCom Diagnostic Function of the TD5 Engine.pdf" and come across this: - "The TD5 ecu has the READ SETTING and CLEAR SETTING to read and clear the setting. The settings available on that ecu are the injectors codes and the accelerator type, 2or 3 track. The injector codes are composed of 5 characters, 4 literal and 1 that can be numeric or literal. The first 4 characters are coupled two by two and the last one is single (for example NN FG 5 ). The last character can be different because there are 3 types of injectors built from year 1999 up to now. Type 1 Type2 Type3 C M 0 A E 1 B F 2 C G 3 * H 4 * J 5 * K 6 * L 7 * M 8 The Nanocom shows all the 3 possibilities for the last character, but when you modify the code you have to write the code as it is printed on the injector; the Nanocom will automatically check the 5° code." This appears to contradict what I said earlier about entering the fifth digit as a numeric value, (though this seems to work anyway,) but also backs up what I found by just entering the "C" on it's own. Doesn't seem to get much clearer though?? Clive
  15. "Are we saying, that in my case, green top injector, that I enter BE- then GF-then enter just 4 in the third box." Yes, from what I can gather this is correct, having said that, I've just been and checked mine again and having first saved the existing settings file - in case if cock-ups, I changed the settings for two of the injectors, (still on the black tops for now,) the two I changed both ended with C (=2.) On the original read settings they both showed 2-F-C in the third box, I deleted the "-F-C" bits just leaving "2", hit "write settings" and then "read settings" again and it came hack as "2-F-C" just as originally, then I deleted the "2-F-C" again and put in "C" as in the actual code - write then re-read and its back to the original 2-F-C again. It's worth noting that the current NanoCom firmware version is 2.05 (the one I'm now using) and looking at the release notes for it, it says (amongst other things): - "-Wrong correspondence of the 5th digit of the injectors codes of the euro 2 vehicle" Maybe a firmware upgrade would be in order if you haven't already?
  16. If it helps, here is some info that Ian (Porny) sent me a while ago when I asked a similar question. The fith code digit on the injector top is replaced with a number as follows: - For early ECU (MSB*****) and black top injectors: A = 0 or 3 B = 1 C = 2 For later green NNN ECU's and green top injectors: E = 1 F = 2 G = 3 H = 4 J = 5 K = 6 L = 7 M = 8 or 0 The number is entered in the third box. (I'm still not sure what the other two digits in the third box mean but after reading it back, I got similar to you - XX*)
  17. I found a standard one works fine for me, but a thick walled socket may not fit into the recess.
  18. As Andy says, the main fixing bolt which holds the tensioner assy to the block is a multi (12) point head. A 14mm 12 point socket fits perfectly, this bolt is a normal RH thread, the other bolt which fixes the tensioner bearing to the arm is a LH thread with a conventional 15mm head. Clive
  19. Is there any sideways movement on the shaft, like this: - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYgX_ThV-PE If not, I would say you could live with it for now. It clearly looks like somethings been though there that doesn't belong, however, the damage is already done and provided it's not out of balance I can't see its going to get any worse.
  20. A NNN500020 will work OK in an earlier td5, I've got one in mine, I replaced mine because the original one died altogether. I also get the "coolant temp circuit current" error along with the other faults, Auto gearbox, air con etc. but I just ignore them now, they don't seem to make any difference. The only problem I got since changing the ECU is that when the engine is started from cold, initially it wont rev up, if you floor the loud pedal it coughs and chugs a bit and chucks out loads of blue/grey smoke, if left to tick over for a minute it then runs normally. I thought the issue with the coolant temp might be related to the problem and replaced the coolant temp sender with a later one but that made no difference. It runs better since having a couple of faulty injectors replaced last week but it still does it a bit. Do you get any running problems with yours?
  21. OK so it cranks for longer, I asked because I had a similar problem with mine recently, to be honest though, it wasn't a sudden change but it was gradually taking longer to start and running a bit lumpy. Mine turned out to be a problem with two of the injectors, it showed on the "power balance" graph on a Nanocom fuelling readout. Might be worth getting some diagnostics done on yours?
  22. When you say it's "getting harder to turn over", do you mean it's turning over more slowly than before, or is it turning over just as quickly but has to crank for a longer time?
  23. POR15 gets my vote, sticks like plop to a blanket even on rusty metal, better still on cleaned metal, followed with a top coat of Chassis Black. Edit; loving the word filter / censor thing - "plop" is not what I wrote.
  24. Water alone would not allow enough current to pass to burn a wire till it smokes unless it's been tracking for some time, sounds like a short somewhere. Were the sidelights on when the smoke started, if not then its only the wiring from the fuse to the switch thats suspect, if it's burnt up to the switch then maybe the faults in there? If the lights were on when the fault ocurred it might be worth looking at the individual sidelights to see if there is any signs of burning on the feed wire at the back of each lamp unit. Sorry I don't have a wiring diagram for that vintage but it's pretty simple from what I remember of the 1989 90 that I had a while ago.
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