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crwoody

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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. How about wedging a suitably thick screwdriver blade or pry bar (depending on available gap) between the hinge and bulkhead to lever the hinge outwards against the bolt head and jam it enough to stop it slipping while drilling the bolt head out.
  2. How about a leaky diode pack in the alternator? Try loosening the connector for the thick brown wire on the alternator and give it a wiggle on the stud so see if you get any sparks, be careful not to short anything out while loosening it though.
  3. Not too much chance of that.. Nice look though.. B)
  4. Rock sliders with tree bars do it for me too. On the plus side, they really don't look out of place on a defender. On the + plus side they're very handy for fending off clumsily opened car doors in the local supermarket car park.
  5. I like that, similar styling to the D3. Is that a genuine SVX grille or an aftermarket one?
  6. I can vouch for that, mine are also slow to retract, been like it from nearly new when I got it. They tend to get a bit chewed up where they get caught in the door latch, I've just become accustomed to giving them a helping hand to reel in before I close the door, (most times anyway!)
  7. As Western says - stick with the solids, vented discs are vented to get rid of heat when braking hard at a decent speed, off road they will never be turning quickly enough to be effective and if they're full of mud they're no longer vented anyway. Always good practice to replace discs and pads at the same time, however it depends how unevenly the old discs are worn, if the pad surface is still fairly flat it should quickly conform to the new disc surface. EDIT; just noticed, thats my 100th post! do I get a gold star or a badge?
  8. It could be that the wire is trapped somewhere and shorting to earth. Try disconnecting it from the switch to be sure, just unplug the wire from the back of it and see what happens.
  9. The switch is a small sliding jobbie similar to the workings of a door "pin switch", it's mounted on the handbrake lever base (mounting) plate under the rubber gaiter. there's no adjustment as such other than possibly bending the metal lever that operates it. Generally though they seem to suffer mostly from bad connections, either internally, or the spade connector that plugs into it works loose. They can also remain on, if something is blocking the lever and preventing it from releasing fully, the switch often comes on within the first few degrees of movement of the lever.
  10. I changed mine a while ago and also only had the upper and centre parts, I found the existing lower part can be modified by cutting off the top of the section where the centre mounted switch panel goes (went!) I found a good article/thread somewhere giving a step-by-step description of the conversion, (after I'd done mine!) I just had a quick search but couldn't find it, may be on another forum. The other problem is with the vent regulator levers. The old type release by moving the lever to the right while sliding up & down to open/close the vent, with the new ones you pull on the knob toward you to release it so the slot in the facia is narrower, You will either need to - 1. make the slots wider, 2. make the knob narrower, 3. fit the later type regulators, unfortunately the whole inner dash panel is different so you will need that too, or - 4. leave the vents permanently closed. Heres a piccie of the inside of the later dash if it helps.
  11. Sorry to hear your problem live on! I've just been searching around trying to find where I saw an article about cutting a hole in the rear floor to access the pump, plenty of details for 110 but not for a 90 as yet, however I also found a few references suggesting a dodgy fuel filter could be to blame. Could be worth a try - much cheaper than a pump anyway.
  12. There are no keyways machined on the column or boss, just a short tapered section then a splined bit (about 12-15mm dia IIRC) and then a big nut on the end to keep it in place.
  13. I would guess at hours or days rather than minutes, It was one of those things where you suddenly realise it's not there any more! Bit like a headache!! Trouble is, it's not my daily driver so I don't use it that much.
  14. I had the same on mine after disconnecting fuel pipes at the engine to check the pressure while checking on a recent problem. That was also very loud with a kind of whooshing and gurgling sound. Tried the purge procedure too, the pump just ran a lot longer - while still making the noise, but the engine ran OK and eventually the pump noise went back to normal. Can't really say how long it took though. I'm sure the Fuel Purge function will be the same on all Td5's? - Or maybe someone will be along soon to correct me! Theres a thread on here somewhere about accessing the pump on a 90.
  15. Here ya go! - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...oor+hinge\
  16. You mean like this? - I thought this myself a while ago Reasoning was to pack as much grease into the hub as possible thereby leaving no room for mud - never got around to fitting them yet though. Still, silly season coming up and now the weather's better it's time to crack on and get some maintenance done - including fitting my modified flanges.
  17. Sounds like a compressor lubrication problem to me, more than just a bearing, they won't run dry for long! Was the A/C oil recharged with the re-gas? I think you'll find the compressors are specific to the application, I got one once to fit on my td5 with the intention of using for an air compressor but the pulley didn't line up with the existing belt. I managed to get the right one eventually but I've still not fitted it as I still have to figure out how to keep it Lubed. Can't help on part no's though, sorry.
  18. There was a good thread on here recently about this subject, check this out - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...oor+hinge\
  19. The rear bearing on that alternator is a real pain, I had the same on a 300tdi Disco recently also a Magneto Marelli unit. I think the back bearing fails usually because it's quite close to the exhaust. To change the rear bearing the alternator has to be dismantled completely which means unsoldering and removing the diode pack to get to the bearing. I gave up in the finish and bought a new alternator.
  20. I don't want to appear blindingly obvious here, but how about just adding a swingaway wheel carrier when you fit the "new" rear door? Edit Sorry, just re-read the first post, thats me out of ideas then!!
  21. Could well be, I had to replace a 300tdi alternator recently for the same reason. Why not take the fan-belt off and spin the pulleys by hand, you'll soon see then.
  22. I'm not entirely sure if the condition of the key fob battery is too important so long as the transponder inside the fob is OK, in any case if SWMBO's scales were working before you pinched the battery, it should be good enough for the fob anyway. "...... is there any harm in taping the key fob to the ignition barrell?" Having the fob on the keyring is normally good enough, but I dont see why you couldn't tape it to the barrel - or tuck it away inside the casing. Makes the immobiliser a bit redundant though.
  23. Do you have the key fob (2 button plipper) on the same ring as the key. There is a "passive coil" around the ignition barrel and connected to the alarm ECU, it detects the fob to de-activate the immobiser but it's range is very limited, only a couple of inches or so.
  24. How about the earth wire connection on the lamp itself?
  25. With an oil leak from both the Transfer box output and the axle input, I would suggest you check the bearings too, along with the prop shaft U/J's. The seals may be simply worn out due to age and ingress of crud etc. but an out-of-balance prop caused by worn joints can quickly wreck the bearings and seals of the attached shafts at either end. As others have said, changing the seals isn't that much of a job so long as you can get the flange nut undone. (A buzz gun is your friend here!)
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