crwoody
-
Posts
507 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by crwoody
-
-
Badly slipping fan belt when wet, causing poor coolant circulation.
-
1
-
-
Looks to me like the original mounting point for the bonnet release lever bracket.
-
I suppose it smells a bit oily but not strong. Looks far too clean to be engine oil.
-
1
-
-
Is this any help, factory fitted pin switch with bracket to operate it fitted to bolts on centre hinge.
-
Looks like diesel to me, or maybe screenwash, can you smell it?
-
Looks to me like it could be simple aluminum corrosion, if it's come from a farm environment with acidic animal waste getting splashed about, that could do it.
To be honest though if that is the case, I'd be more concerned about the condition of the chassis.
-
If you're not too far from Halifax, it's worth giving Michael at Adamson Independent Automotive a call.
He fitted my 2004 90 with a new Clutchfix heavy duty clutch, pressure plate and release bearing, (DMF and cylinder not required.)
I had to leave it with him for a couple of days but ended up very pleased with a job well done for £385 all in.
-
Ah right, often more than meets the eye when there's "history".
Just a case of plod on through then, having said that, there should be no issue with wiring direct and isolating the original wires as you've suggested.
-
I don't know what vehicle yours is but on the Td5 there a light green/black which feeds the washer pump directly from the switch, also connected to a feed from the wiper delay relay, then from the pump, there is a black earth wire connected via one of the headers.
My guess from the way you describe the intermittent nature is the earth may have a bad connection, it's pretty unlikely that a wire in the harness would just break.
-
The Lucas 10AS alarm ECU is a generic unit used in a number of different cars, (Defender, Discovery 2, some Rovers) and as such is fully configurable with the right diagnostic tool.
So yes, the interior light operation, locking and remote locking actions and alarm functionality can all be controlled via a Nanocom or similar.
For example, I've got mine set so that the volumetric alarm is armed when locking with the key fob but not so if I lock it with the key, this is to prevent false triggers if I leave the dogs in the car and/or a window open.
There's a lot of useful info here -
https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/lucas-10as-alarm-nanocom-evolution
I don't know of any current group buys going on just now, the last one I could find was about 2 years ago on Defender2.net
-
Did you replace the pressure plate as well?
I was having problems with my clutch slipping recently but on fitting a new one the old friction plate was hardly worn, it was slipping due to the springs in the pressure plate not applying sufficient clamping pressure.
-
Radio connector, BMW type.
-
As I remember it they screw into tapped holes in the upright ends of the square section bar but didn't quite line up with the rivet holes, it was easy enough to drill the extra holes to suit with careful measuring, then once the top plate was lined up and screwed down, the holes for the rivets can be drilled.
-
I did mine a few months ago, the hardest bit was cutting down either side from the top, really just in terms of accessibility, I ended up using a combination of an angle grinder, "sabre" saw and jigsaw to get in there and to cut the curve profile reasonably accurately, you don't need to be all that precise though because the angled piece that goes over the top covers the top inch or so of the cut edge.
A decent riveter helps too.
I also removed all the seats to make access easier.
-
If the steering is stiff at the same point of rotation on each turn of the steering wheel, I'd say it's most likely a damaged steering box.
-
I've had two Disco 3's a few years ago that both used to do the same, never really took much notice of it until one had the brake servo recall, then I became a bit more aware of it, probably because of the potential brake fade issue the recall addressed.
My 2004 90 does it too, albeit a little more slowly, I can only assume there must be a little bit of by-pass leakage in the master cylinder, or something similar going on with the ABS module.
I've got to keep a fair amount of pressure on the pedal for it to occur, probably quite a bit more than I'd use to apply the brakes normally.
-
You would be alright to use the redundant O/S plug so long as it will only be used to trigger a relay, the relay then feeds the spots from a more substantial supply in the same way that the Boomslang relays do.
-
As Western says, no airbags on Defender to worry about.
Personally, I've never had to resort to a puller to get the steering wheel off so you could get lucky with a wiggle and pull, just one tip though, when you undo the centre nut, just slacken it a couple of turns but leave it on initially, this will help to prevent you from smacking yourself in the face with the wheel when it lets go.
Good luck.
-
1
-
-
42 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
So I need to make the connection to earth for it to think the door is open ?
Correct 👍
-
Yes you're right, the switches are grounded to one side by their individual fixing screws, the switched, (live side,) purple/blue wires, connect together and go back to the 10AS alarm module.
Switch closed with any door open = light on.
-
There are four separate headlight fuses, one for each filament, Fuse 24 is for the RH main beam, they're all in the passenger compartment fusebox, ( by the gear lever.)
-
1 hour ago, Dan D90 said:
Thanks, I can solder OK but I have no clue on the rest of the electronics bit! Running a wire from the battery is starting to look like the easy option
Just make sure you fuse it properly then, 20A should be plenty of capacity but get it as close to the battery as possible to protect the wire and prevent fry-ups.
-
Not sure which version yours is, but the later (2002 on) Td5 takes a feed from Fuse 7 (20A) under the driver side seatbox for the 10AS alarm/locking ECU, (green plastic box, mounted behind the dash binnacle,) via a Purple/Black wire.
Of course, if yours is not equipped with the 10AS then that wire or fuse will probably not be there, however, it shouldn't be too hard to find a permanent (fused) live wire in that area, you don't need a huge current capacity.
If you do have the 10AS it simplifies things somewhat as the central locking logic and drivers are already there, you'll just need to add the door lock solenoids and wiring and get a kit to modify the current alarm module to add an extra relay and a couple of other bits to it, it's an easy modification if you can use a soldering iron.
-
I can't really answer your question conclusively, but it looks exactly the same on my 2004 Def 90, I would assume the bar/hump there to provide some rigidity to the centre part of the seat box.
The front vertical panel of the box is cut away in the centre to accommodate the transmission tunnel leaving only half an inch or so of metal across the middle, my guess is that it would flex under load and allow the middle of the box to sag if the frontal top bar was removed.
1988 110 2.5 Turbo Head Lights on/off
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by crwoody
There should be no 12v feed to any of the lights with the switch in the off position, the ground sides of all the lights are permanently connected to chassis ground and rely on a positive feed from the switch to operate.
Sounds to me like you may have a faulty dim/dip relay with an internal short circuit, I'd start by disconnecting the dim/dip resistor, on the later cars it's mounted inside the front RH wheel arch, I'm not so sure of the location on the earlier cars.
I think most UK car owners have already disabled the dim/dip for reliability reasons as they're not a legal requirement over here, not sure how you stand with that Stateside.