crwoody

I made up a 6mm steel plate drilled and tapped m8 to suit the brake lever plate along with a rubber gasket and used that to clamp through the seatbox top, lever on top, plate underneath.

Definitely a boost box, got the same on mine along with a stage 2 Alive tuning re-map, it fools the ECU into seeing a lower boost than it really is. Regarding the handbrake lever, if you have a centre seat then you're pretty much stuck with it, however, if you've a centre cubby box, I would highly recommend getting yourself a Disco2 handbrake lever and mounting it on the top of the seatbox between drivers seat and cubby box, much more user friendly.

If I remember correctly the M8 bolts should go through a fairly substantial steel "L" shaped bracket underneath the seatbox bolted to the chassis.

Yes, the later Puma doors are a straight swap, that's exactly what did with my 2004 90 with rotten door bottoms.

I can't really answer your question but I'd like to offer a word of caution. Anything going astray in the vac pump will eventually end up in the sump mixed in with the oil, particularly small particles, the carbon vanes themselves may not cause too much of a problem but you need to inspect the rotor very carefully. I had one break up a few years ago and it pretty much wrecked the engine with minute very hard shards of the rotor getting through the filters, this all happened in a trip of 100 miles or so. I'd suggest changing the oil & filters a couple of times to flush out any contaminants before running it for any significant time. Good luck with sourcing your parts.

It's most likely an earth fault. Depending on which vehicle, (certainly Td5,) there is a common earth point on the bulkhead, behind the coolant expansion bottle. The lights, ABS module, radio and a few others are grounded there together, a bad/loose connection there will cause this problem.

There's usually a spring clip on the underside of the handle, like in this link - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Door-Window-Metal-Clip-Crank-Retainer-Roll-Up-Winder-Handle-Retaining-Clip-H5/273001177349?hash=item3f90236105:g:WwsAAOSwIFtaRZlM You need a small hooked end device to get under the handle and hook the closed end then give it a pull. I used a length of 2mm galv wire, flattened the end and bent it over to form the hook.

With the wheels straight ahead ONLY, clearance is minimal at this point, at any other position you risk damaging the unit badly by denting the worm and creating tight spots or worse still jamming the whole thing up. Also be gentle with it, tighten only enough to minimise the play at mid point, it will increase anyway as you turn away from centre. Mine suffers from this problem, presumably due to a previous owner setting it in the wrong place, there is a "notch" in the steering with the wheel at about 2 o'clock from centre which is just tight enough to prevent it from self-centering on a modest right-hand bend, very annoying. I've been getting around to replacing the steering box for the last 3 years, oh well - one day.

So far as I remember the 2001 defender with a two-piece rear door, (squared-off bottom corners,) used aluminium angle sections, screwed in from the inside to hold the window in place, sealed with mastic, the later pressed steel door with rounded bottom corners, uses a conventional window seal the same as the front screen. None are actually bonded in the way that "modern" screens are fitted.

I'd say one buzzer and two diodes.

There is a separate feed (fuse 3, 30A) to the headlight flash part of the switch, the main supply to the rest of the light switch is from Link 6, 30A. Both these are in the under-seat fusebox.

A 12v 10W (or 2 x 5W) lamp will draw less than 1 amp, so 2 amps for a pair of 10W will be no problem at all for the wiring or fuses. Don't forget, you'll have 21W lamps for the indicators and stop lights on the same size wiring. I think the original choice of 5W lamps has more to do with construction and use regulations that were relevant at the time.

What you've drawn is pretty much how the pre-made ones come, I contemplated the same myself about 2 yrs ago and came to the conclusion that by the time I'd bought all the individual connectors and relays etc it was a much better use of my time and cash to just buy one ready made. So another vote for the Boomslang loom.

Personally I've never bothered, just get the engine up to temperature, bit of a run and then drain it straight away, leave it for a while to finish dripping. Otherwise add a couple of litres of diesel to the engine oil to thin it, run it for long enough to ensure it's well mixed in before draining.

Well, after much deliberation I finally took the plunge and fitted a pair of gas struts to my Td5 90 bonnet. I know there are kits available for the task, but where's the fun in that The struts I used came off a scrapped Suzuki Swift tailgate which is relatively light and suits the Defender bonnet weight. They came with the brackets for the top end and ball joints for the lower end attached, they don't have the spring quick release arrangement that the European ones have. I made a bit easier to fix to the bonnet and wings by drilling and tapping some steel plates to screw into rather than fiddling about with nuts & washers, then it was just a question of careful measurement and drilling. IMG_2166.MOV

I've been contemplating this for a while, I do have my doubts though that the design of the bonnet hinges are not ideal for a strut assisted opening bonnet?

Yes the fast wipe connects the motor directly via the switch, the slow position connects through the switch but also via a contact on the relay, then on to a separate wire that connects via a resistor fitted internally to the wiper motor. The relay is primarily used for the intermittent wipe delay function but as above power is routed via (I think) a normally closed contact on the relay. wipers.pdf

Th wiper park switch is a common problem with these, there should be 12v power on the White/Green wire to the switch with ignition on, the Black one is ground and the Black/Green should be either 0v or 12v depending on the switch position, (normally 0v if parked.) If the washer is working there will be power to the wiper switch so the wiper should work at least in the fast or "flick" positions, if not, either the contacts on the switch are open/dirty/knackered or the motor is goosed.

They may have improved over the years and I have no recent experience of them but I fitted one to a Td5 Defender 90 a few years ago and have to say I was disapointed with it. It seemed to work quite well at first and would certainly "hold" well although it was a bit tricky to get set up correctly initially, but it used to snatch badly if used as an emergency brake, much less control than the normal drum. What finished it for me though was that the disk got "out of true" after some off-roading, (may have caught it and damaged it slightly although I could net see any damage,) after this you could hear it catching on the pads/caliper while turning so I removed it and re-fitted the original drum. The X-Eng disk brake was sold to me on the basis that "it doesn't get clogged with mud" but to be honest I never really had that problem with the drum anyway, however with the disk pads being relatively small and completely open to all the mud and dirt they seemed to wear a lot quicker than the original shoes which I never had to replace.

Pretty sure this is due to a loose earth connection, possibly the one in the bottom of the seatbox under the engine ECU. Another common dodgy earth point is the one on the bulkhead behind the coolant expansion tank.

The "Oil service" warning will not be reset by simply changing the oil and filter, it needs to be reset electronically by plugging in a diagnostic service device to re-start the countdown to the next service. There may possibly be a way to reset it by pressing buttons in a certain sequence, however, I'm not familiar with the Puma so I'm not certain on that one. Edited to add; the warranty should not be affected so long as you have proof of the service intervention, invoices etc.

If the lit tail lights go off when the brake is pressed that indicates an open earth connection to the rear lights.

Sounds to me like there could be a dodgy earth connection somewhere. Not so sure where though.

Cruise control on a Td5 is entirely integral to the engine ECU with it's electronically controlled fuel injection. So far as I know the 300tdi is purely a mechanical injection pump system, so I'm afraid you'll be out of luck on the Td5 route.

They're M8 x 35 raised head countersunk. I just took one of mine out to check and yes they are tight, had to use an impact driver to loosen it. Just had a thought; they're the same style as the original earlier hinge screws, maybe a source if you've replaced any in the past and kept the old ones.