crwoody

I think you'll find that since 1995 all vehicles must have an immobiliser by law, my 2001 90 certainly had. On the Defender the module is mounted on the bulkhead tucked in behind the dash, removing the clock unit gives access to it if needed. You'll need a diagnostic utility (I use Nanocom,) to get the ECU to read it's code and pair with it.

I had a very similar fault recently with the starter on my Td5, turned out to be due to badly worn/pitted contacts in the solenoid, sometimes made contact - sometimes not, fitted a repair kit and solved the problem.

400 watts at 12 volts equates to 33 amps, even at 55W per lamp = 220W, that's still over 18 amps - I'd say you need a bigger fuse. (No wonder it's getting hot!)

I think you'll find the orange wire is actually the receiver aerial for the 10AS alarm unit, it just hangs loose from the plug as you found. It sounds like you have a flat battery but it could just be a loose terminal connection on the battery or a loose earth connection from battery to chassis or chassis to engine.

1. The interior lights are switched from the alarm ecu, they need to be set/activated using a plug-in diagnostic utility, Nanocom for example. 2. Doubtful. 3. Never, there will always be something else, it's a Land Rover thing.

Me neither.

Glad to hear you got it sorted. I must admit, I didn't think of trying to do mine in-situ like you did but struggled instead with that top bolt. Anyway, good news and good info too for the next victim of this little problem.

As above, but - be aware that while 2" of movement with the wheels straight ahead is excessive, it is normal to get a fair bit of play with the wheels turned near full lock in either direction, 2" probably not being unusual. If it is in the straight ahead position, it is adjustable.

The cat is on the longer straight bit between the 90° bend and the rear hanger bracket, just after that it bends twice which makes it impossible to get a straight rod in there.

As above - starter solenoid, the contacts get worn/pitted and don't always connect when it engages. You can get a solenoid repair kit, there's an ebay seller doing them. Solved mine anyway.

FridgeFreezer wrote ... A good poking with a stick or bar should do it ... I had the same idea myself a little while ago but I found there is a bend in the pipe which just prevented me from getting anything sturdy enough to do the job in there.

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Fan belt

Replacing the big centre box silencer with a straight through replacement pipe made a big difference to mine. Depending on age, you might want a de-cat pipe too if there's a cat fitted. Both the above create a significant exhaust back pressure which restricts the turbo performance noticeably. Also makes a great noise - if you like that sort of thing

As above really, if you like the look of it, go ahead, but it makes little if any difference to the heater airflow so it's not worth doing for that reason alone. As also said, some of the cheaper ones do fall apart.

" .. there was water coming from under the engine around the exhaust downpipe .. " Could it have been coming from under the heater intake pipe, there is a "duckbill" under there somewhere to let rain water out that's come in through the wing-top vent, that can get blocked. Come to think of it, there's a similar arrangement on the other side too which could explain the "chuffing" noise.

I believe central locking was added as standard on County spec vehicles in 2002 with the dash upgrade and electric windows, but the 10AS alarm ECU, with lock/unlock outputs is the same for both pre 02 and post 02 models, so it's easy enough to add central locking. The rear door is a bit of a pain though - but do-able.

Not so sure about the direct answer to your question - but Is it possible that your friends 90 is fitted with anti roll bars and maybe yours is not? Also the suspension bushes seem have a big part in it too, particularly the front radius arm to axle ones. A 90 I had a while ago had polybushes in which gave it a very firm ride in terms of body roll, whereas the one I got after had the standard (much softer) LR bushes and it rolled a lot more, neither of these had ARB's and both had similar (+2") springs. To be honest, I preferred the ride with the soft LR bushes and the articulation was better too.

I'm not familiar with the workings of the Salisbury axle, but from what you say, I would imagine the hubs are similar to the "normal" ones. Anyway, I had the same problem with a Disco 1 a while back, only one bolt still holding the flange to the hub on one side and two on the other. I got the broken bits out using a 5 mm drill and a screw extractor. To ensure the drill remained centred I drilled though the head of an M6 cap-head bolt until the thread dropped off and then used it as a guide by keeping the flange in place and holding the bolt head in the hole with a screwdriver while I drilled through, once I got the extractor in, the broken off bits of bolt came out fairly easily.

The "30 amp" rating for the relay simply means the current carrying capacity of the contact, so long as it's higher than the actual load you are switching it's no problem, it certainly wont increase the voltage to the lamp which is about the only thing that could make it blow - apart from a faulty bulb etc as Oaksey says. It's not a 6 volt bulb is it? (like a battery hand lamp one.)

One of mine got like that a while back - finally seized up and shredded the fan belt half way across the Severn bridge I would get it sorted ASAP.

Usually the one thats on the tightest angle - in your case the left one as you suggested.

I got one of those a little while ago and while the actual phone holder is pretty good, I found the flexi-bendy bit and the sucker is pants, so I cut off the end with the adjustable holder and attached it to a home-made bracket that's held down by one of the demist vent screws, while the other end simply "wraps under" the dash top. Works for me.

I have no experience of the bonnet mounted carrier, but I would have thought there should be another nut or a spacer further down the stud for the wheel to sit on and the fixing nut to tighten against, It's certainly that way with the door mounted carriers.

Yes, I'd say it sounds like a problem there then. Out of curiosity I've just been out and checked mine, jacked up one front wheel (couldn't be bothered taking the prop off,) handbrake on, centre diff lock engaged and main gears in neutral. I get about 35° of free rotation of the front output shaft by turning the jacked up wheel. Have you tried it with the difflock and handbrake on? you could get misleading results otherwise.