v8bertha

D'oh... Oh yeah! What a plank, sorry!

Errr... 3A is a bearing 😉

Excellent! I'll keep tabs on this thread and go check them out. Cheers 👍

OOOooooo... I'm in a similar situation, differnet tent manufacturer though... Who did you use in the end? Was it made to measure or a set size?

If you mean the flange that the prop bolts on to, yes, you can replace the seal without removing the diff. The trick is to count the number of turns of the bolt when taking it off as there is a crush washer in there between the bearings. Pull out the flange, replace seal, flange back in, do bolt up counting the number of turns again. I believe the crush washer preloads the tension in the bearings, so don't over tighten when doing it back up again. But I'm sure a sensible adult will be along soon if I've got that wrong!

There is a whole selection of different length bolts holding a 300tdi timing cover in place if that helps!

Had the same problem with my 110. I replaced the starter motor and things improved a little bit, but still not enough. So I then ran a new wire from the battery positive to the starter motor... WOW! That fixed it. It now starts on the button, even on cold mornings I wish I'd done this first rather than cough out for a new starter!!

I've been running blue polybushes in the camel for a few years, but for laugh decided to fit gen rubber bushes even though the polys didn't show any signs of being past their best. I've only changed the rear end bushes so far but this has really stiffened up my back end . Agreed with Si tho, its rare that we ever compare new with new, so a proper comparison is difficult. As for the ingress of dirt and water, I've heard this about the cheaper bushes, deflex (???) and the like, but after close inspection of the holes after removing my Polys, I couldn't really see any evidence.

Thanks all... I think I'll look at cleaning/replacing the brush pack first as these are fairly cheap and easy to do. As suggested by Sip, I'm inclined to agree that these things aren't overly accurate and are only there to provide an indication, rather than an exact measurement. Zim... It's a VSR. I'm pretty certain it kicks in at 13.7v, but it's quite possible I'm mistaken! Oh, and not sure if I should admit to this, but making sure the connection is done up, rather than rattling about on the battery terminal helps!! Cheers all

Any alternator geeks out there? I've got one of these National Luna battery monitors mounted on the dash of the 110 On the way home from work this afternoon I was keeping an eye on it and noticed that the reading was fluctuating between 12.6v and 13.6v regardless of whether I has lights/heaters/stereo on. A couple of times the 14.4v led lit up momentarily. Considering my split charge doesn't start split charging until 13.7v, I'm left with a second battery that is now completely flat meaning the heated seats won't work !!! My question is this... is it normal for alternator output voltage to fluctuate or should it be a steady? A cold bum in the mornings is not nice, hence an urgent need to solve this problem! Cheers Dan

Is that snow??? You lucky sods! Funny, I had the same sort of issues when I first started driving the Camel Freelander, which is left hand drive, it felt very odd for a few weeks, but soon got used to it. TBH I couldn't even tell you what side the indicator stalk is on now!

As Blippie said, turn the key twice to lock all the doors

Yup, 'tis an easy fix... done it on both my L series freelanders now. I vaguely remember having to take the side cover off that fixes to the chassis rail too... 3x 10mm bolts IIRC

That's what I'll be doing when we build the new garage... concreted-in/bolt-down ring in the concrete with a hefty chain and padlock. It'll probably only need to go around the tow bar supports. If anybody does try to drag it off the driveway it'll make a hell of a bang and stop them dead in their tracks. Hopefully that would be enough to make them scarpa!!

Will the burger van be there? I've missed Richard's and Ann's cake!

LOL... I thought so... so what kind of example were the towists setting this morning then!!

Whats the law on trailer number plates? I always thought they had to be proper plates conforming to the usual standard, i.e letter spacing, size, colour etc etc rather than the scrawlled paper and marker pen jobs that you see so often these days! Don't get me wrong, I'm no angel and have been guilty of this in the past but if anyone knows for sure what the rules state, post up! Cheers Dan

I guess we were the lucky ones, we got our MSS drawer very cheap It's unfortunate that they are so bloomin' expensive, but you get what you pay for... the quality is excellent and they are proper robust. Ours is the full width version that takes up the whole floorspace in the back of the 110. Just shout if you want measurements. I've mounted it with a 150mm space between the back door. I did this initially because we planned to mount a cooker on the back door. However we never got around to that so although its waisted space now,it does act as a very useful shelf, so I'd definitely recommend leaving a usable gap.

@ejparrot... yeah, hopefully, but 'cos its buried, I won't be able to find out too easily @MrKev... cheers for that. I was looking at them and wondering if the red pull switch could be bypassed?

Cheers for the link Paul, that looks like what I need... just need to find one that doesn't have "Off road" in the title, then it'll probably be cheaper!! Thanks to both of you for confirming that somewhere in the region of 100psi is a good number to have

I have a warn 5gallon air tank buried in the dark depths of the 110 somewhere. The air con pump that fills it is triggered by a pressure switch that was donated to me by a friend. But unfortunately it only seems to fill to about 40psi. Even with my very basic knowledge of these things, that seems a bit low. I've checked the switch and there doesn't appear to be any adjustment screw on it. So I thought I'd treat myself to a new one. But which one??? Does anybody know what the warn tank can take pressure-wise? Obviously I'm not interested in filling it to its maximum and risking blowing the pressure valve every time, but it would be nice to be able to get some proper blow out of it. So I guess what I'm asking in a very long winded way is what's a good working pressure range for a basic on board air setup? Cheers all Dan

<blatent bragging mode> Don't know what all the fuss is about... it was fine when we were there </blatent bragging mode> We only ventured half way up the Dalton Highway and even in glorious sunshine it was easy to see that "getting it wrong" would be disastrous! Haven't seen the proggy yet, will hopefully egt a chance to watch it on iPlayer at some point.

Craddocks had one! I've asked them to get it out first class post, but obviously they can't guarantee that the postal service... and a guaranteed saturday delivery is £45!! So just in case my original question still stands, anybody fairly local that has one knocking about? Terry seems to be getting hard to get hold of these days... I think he's taking early retirement or something!

The pinion bearing has disintegrated, so not sure if that old trick will work in this situation

Indeed, but very few of these companies actually have the stuff in stock, they only get the stuff in from their suppliers when they actually receive an order.