v8bertha
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Posts posted by v8bertha
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Isn't it more low down torque on a diesel compared to a petrol?
That's kinda what I was thinking and is now why I'm wondering if the diesel box maybe has stronger components.
Anybody know for sure?
Anybody know if the clutch fork is a weak point like it is on the R380 gearboxes?
I'm assuming the release bearing is ok as I haven't heard any nasty noises.
I think I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and get the box out to see if there is anything obviously wrong with the clutch side of things.
grumble grumble grumble
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Ahhh ha! I knew it! Thanks Chris
I'm now left wondering if maybe the diesel version of the box had uprated componants to cope with the extra grunt over what the petrol engine produced?
I've already replaced the hydraulics and it feels exactly the same (which means the old unit was probably ok!!)
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Me again!
with another long, rambling explanation of a problem!Regular readers of this forum will remember that christmas 2009 saw the gearbox in my Camel freeby go into meltdown mode...
At the time I did a bit of reading and found that the PG1 gearbox was used in all sorts of cars. A friend of a friend was breaking a 1.8 petrol Freelander at the time so I had the gearbox and installed it in the Camel together with a new clutch. Pretty much straight away I had my suspicions that the gearbox must be different because at 70mph the car was doing over 3000rpm. But the car was usable so I lived with it.
Over the past week or so the car has been harder and harder to get into gear, and when sat at traffic lights in 1st with the clutch down, you can feel it trying to drive forwards. It got so bad that I couldn't get the car in gear with the engine running. Knowing that the hydraulics are a known weak point on these cars I changed that and the slave bracket on the gearbox that tends to snap. But unfortunately it's made no difference. I still can't select a gear whilst stationery and have to match engine revs to speed to change gears whilst driving.
Now, those of you who are true geeks
will now be shaking your heads woefully and tutting because the Camel freelander came with the 2lt L series diesel, not the 1.8 petrol. The gearboxes are dimensionally the same and are interchangable. Now I think I know the answer to my question, but I don't know for sure... Is the diesel gearbox "uprated" in any way? Are the rations the same? Is the premature demise of the current gearbox to be expected seeing as it came from a 1.8 petrol?
Or do you thing that my gear selection problems are related to something else altogether?
Cheers chaps
Dan
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A friend of mine has the snap-on puller listed above by fozsug. It makes light work of it and had a drop arm that I'd been beating for hours with various hammers off in just a couple of minutes.
There are some jobs, not many admittedly, where a hammer, however big and beautifully crafted is not the tool for the job
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Just bolt George together and drive that for a while - you know it makes sense!
You're not helping!
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Cheers all for the suggestions, as the law of sod would have it, the problem hasn't re-occurred all week, and seeing as the clutch hydraulics went pop this morning, it's now going to be off the road until the new thingy-bob arrives... 18 months of trouble free motoring and then everything happens all at once!
D
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What "kill switch"?
Did you add this yourself?
Ahhh... sorry, I didn't explain that one. Its a Camel Trophy Freelander. These came with a battery isolator/kill switch...
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Thanks Dave, the battery is, as you mention, absolutely fine.
I will try your suggestions next time the problem occurs
I'm assuming that the positive connection to the battery will go via the kill switch that is located in the scuttle panel (?? between windscreen and bonnet) so it could be this that is causing the problem.
Perhaps I'll remove the switch from the circuit to see if that makes any difference.
Thanks for the suggestions though
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Ignition barrel switch worn out?
hmmm... interesting... how would I test that?
I'm assuming I'd have to make some sort of jumper wire up and when the lights are all dim, connect it up and see if it makes any difference?
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Yup... done that.
Have also been through the fuse box and made sure that everything is pushed in properly.
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Chaps,
I'm never one to have a simple problem, and anything electonical in nature falls in to the category of plain-weird to me, so I'm hoping someone can help me diagnose the problem I'm having, or at least give me some pointers on where to start looking.
The car is a 2l L-series Diesel.
The problem... every now and then I blip the blipper to unlock the car, put key in ignition, turn to position 2 when all the dash lights should come on, but only the battery warning light and oil warning light come on really really faintly... you have to look hard to see that they are on. None of the other lights are on. If I try to start the car sometimes it just clicks very rapidly, other times it spins over merrily but will not start.
Now the weird part... if I keep turning the ignition on and off, eventually I will get the full array of lights and the car will start normally. This has only caused minor annoyance up until now, but this morning it decided to conk out half way round a round-about
The usual ignition on-off game began and after a few mins all the light came on and it started again.So has anybody had this before, and if so what was the cause?
If nobody has had this problem, then how should I go about finding the cause of the fault. As I said, it's very intermittent.
Any helpful hints or offer to come and fix for free will be greatly appreciated
Dan
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Good luck, I look forward to hearing about it
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There is ample opportunity to get off the beaten track and get totally lost for a few days :-)and you can get to some pretty isolated places while still having the benefit of a wal-mart within a couple of hours drive
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You will be sorry you offered!! my I ask how much it cost? which is the first go/no go gate. also did you go for a container or ro/ro I understand if I go container I can take all my overland kit with me but if it's a ro/ro it has to be empty?
We took the REALLY expensive option!
You can go Ro-Ro but any kit that is in the vehicle is at the mercy of the ships crew. Our shipping agent also said that the shipping company may well turn the vehicle away if its loaded up with anything as they just don't want to take the risk. We also weren't willing to take that risk seeing as we had all our flights booked etc etc, so we booked a container. These come in 3 flavours 20ft, 40ft and 40ft high-cube. A standard 110 should fit in a 20ft. We went for a 40ft high-cube because the camel has got that stupid big roof-rack thing going on, so the extra height provided piece of mind as we knew it would fit through the doors! We could have got into a normal hight container if we'd let tyres down or strapped up the suspension, but it just wasn't worth the agro. It cost us about £3k for the round trip. If you ship in a container you'll also have to list everything thats in there for customs. Remember you are not shipping an expedition prepared Land Rover, but a Land Rover and a very long list of stuff, right down to knives and forks! Your agent in the US will be able to advise on this.
If the US agents fees aren't included in the shipping you'll need to sort this out too. But for the life of me I can't remember what it cost
Taking your own vehicle may be an expensive option, but it's so much more fun! The San-Bernadino mountains offer some pretty cool challenges, and of course if you are willing to travel a bit further then there is that off-roading mecca, Moab
I'm assuming that shipping to the west coast will be more than shipping to the east cost, so you could drive across... follow the old Route 66 or something like that, Sod the cost... just do it!!
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Hi Jason,
We shipped our Camel over to Baltimore in 2007 for a small holiday
* Is this correct? can I just stick my 110 in a container and drive it over there with no issues?
Pretty much, yes. You'll need to sort yourself out with an agent to receive and clear customs at the port of entry and there are a few bits of paperwork you'll need to complete to get the car into the US. You'll also need to provide a bond to say that you'll be taking the car out of the country within 12 months. Our agent put this bond up for us and as we brought the car back to blighty we didn't have to find the money. IIRC it was about £10k. However, I think California has its own laws about vehicles... I could be completely wrong but I vaguely remember reading something about cars having to be registered in California if they are there for any more than 6 months. We were only there for 2-3weeks, but the question was asked my Mr Gun-wielding-Rayban-wearing-Plod.
We used a company called Kingstown Shipping based in Hull to organise the shipping, and an agent in Baltimore to organise the US side of things.
* Has anyone on here done this?
Yes... me & SWMBO
* What about insurance etc is it easier to get US insurance?
You won't get a UK company to cover you over there, you'll need to get US insurance. We got ours from Sunrise who are based in Florida. IIRC it was about £500 for 5 months cover.
* Would I need to continue UK tax/MOT?
Not sure... Mr US-Plod didn't really understand out MOT and V5 etc when we did get pulled over but we worked on the theory that whilst the car isntt permanently exported, its still subject to UK laws. No idea if this is actually the case, but made sense in our minds.
* As the MOT runs out in October would I need to get 12months put on before I go?
As above, better safe than sorry.
If you have any specific questions, feel free to pester me and I'll see what I can do.
Dan
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Total pants! I really feel for you having had a car stolen in the past (a Ford Tincorna many, many years ago).
Perhaps this is a good time to remind you all about that website that was set up as a register of stolen Land Rovers... http://www.mystolenlandrover.com/. I have no affiliation with the site, just seems like a good idea.
Hope you get it back in one piece!
Dan
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LOL... I think I have a key somewhere
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Indeedy he does, but he's gallivanting around Italy at the moment... he says its work, but I don't believe him!
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Sooooper doooper
Cheers chaps... will abuse my paypal account imminently!
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Chaps... any glue experts in da house?
One of my little projects on the Camel Freelander has been to re-create the lightpod setup for the roofrack. I have sourced lights and had mounting rings manufactured and am nearly at the stage where I can assemble all the bits into a working unit. However I now need to stick the aluminium mounting ring to the light lens. The picture shows an original light unit which used steel mounting rings. The gluey bit is highlighted by the red box.
So.... the question... what is the best glue type stuff for sticking aluminium to glass? It needs to fill a gap of about 8mm. It needs to be weather resistant and have a good resilience to vibration. The original appears to use some sort of silicone sealant type stuff and has a very limited amount of squidgyness to it.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Dan
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Hi Chris,
From the picture I'd say you have Brownchurch roofracks, and have the option of added support bars front and read. These (I presume) allow a greater weight than specified in the owners manual to be carried up top by putting some of the load on the body cappings (rear) and windscreen hinge (front). It may be worth an email or phonecall to My Brownchurch to see what the weight and recommended load capacity for their roofracks is.
Hope this helps
Dan
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so will carry out the repairs to the sub frame mounting as advised above by V8Bertha.
Whilst I'm always happy to take the credit for somebody else's good work, I think in this instance K88MUD should take the credit
Glad you're finding the forum useful!
Dan
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We have seen this quiet a few times and the reason is the chassis splits where the sub frame mounts to
As Mr Bean say, its nice to see a proper repair job!
Do have you any idea what causes the chassis to tear apart like that?
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I picked it up on another FL site so as to avoid upsetting any of the mods on here if you pm me I'll forward the link for you to try.
I've often wondered what would happen if things stopped working in the back-door department!!
Post up the link, I'm sure the mods would be more than happy as it could provide some valuable insight to many other LR4x4 members... me included!
Cheers
Dan
with another long, rambling explanation of a problem!
will now be shaking your heads woefully and tutting because the Camel freelander came with the 2lt L series diesel, not the 1.8 petrol. The gearboxes are dimensionally the same and are interchangable. 
The usual ignition on-off game began and after a few mins all the light came on and it started again.
PG1 Gearboxes...
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Under normal circumstances I'd agree with you. But I've replaced the hydraulics with a new part and the symptoms are the same. The hydraulics are supposedly maintenance free and are supplied as a sealed unit (master, slave and connecting pipework, pre filled with fluid).