konrad96

For what it's worth, I just bought a 2006 td4 freelander 1 and replaced the MAF sensor with a new Bosch one. The car had been sluggish up to 2000 revs, after which it went fine. After fitting the new MAF, the car feels like new - springs away from a standstill with ease. Can't believe the difference. I had been looking up all the Pierburg data beforehand but Land Rover paid a technical research and design team a lot of money to specify the Bosch, so that was what I went for in the end. My reasoning is that if it lasted 11 years from new, my replacement Bosch will do me for the remaining life of the car. BTW when refitting best to fit the bottom torx screw through the hole in the wing behind the front drivers side wheel - access is easy that way.

The various holes in which the link arms locate tend to wear into an oval shape. Which means you have to move the throttle pedal a certain distance before the actual linkage begins to move. If you have all of this ovality throughout the system, it can add up to a lot of play. Also the arms tend to wear at the ends, which increases the free play. Other than that, just fiddle about until you have all the arms clamped at a satisfactory angle.

Guys, thank you for all the responses, you've been a great help and have solved my problem! Much appreciated. Richard

installing a 2.5 carb back onto a 2.5 engine, but I need some help with the plumbing: there are three pipe fittings in the pictures. Top one is, I'm pretty sure, for fuel in. Middle one is a vent pipe for getting vapour back into the air intake (below solenoid). But what's the little one at the bottom one for? What do I connect it to? Grateful for any help. Richard

For clarity, the middle one is the large pipe stub immediately below the solenoid.

mmm... could be we're talking about a different Weber here. I'm installing the standard fitment Landrover DMTL weber, not the standard replacement for the Zenith. But I do have a question about it: there are three pipe fittings in teh picture. Top one is, I'm pretty sure, for fuel in. Middle one is a vent pipe for getting vapour back into the air intake. But what's the bottom one for? What do I connect it to?

that's what I needed to hear - I don't want to fit the carb and plumb everything in and find that the engine runs like a b***h. I'll let you know how I get on...

Folks, looking for some help here, hope someone can assist. I sold my brother my old series III which had a 2.5 petrol from a 90 (already fitted when I bought it). this had been mated to a series 3 Zenith carb and manifold set with the standard exhaust. It always ran okay for me, but was always a little "choked". My brother has just bought (on my recommendation) a second hand Weber DMTL carb and manifolds, hoping to fix the power issue. Now, the inlet manfold from the weber should fit okay onto the series exhaust manifold. My problem comes with all the fuelling gear which is fitted to the 2.5 engine in it's original vehicle - there is a fuel return line, for one thing, back into the tank, and a fuel swirl pot, and I understand that theres also an electric fuel pump. My question is, can I fit the Weber to his vehicle with the minimum of modifications? Ideally, I'd like to just reconnect his existing fuel line into the new carb, set the thing up and let him crack on. But how important is the fuel pump and the swirl pot, are they essential? Could I get away with one, or the other? Or neither? for clarity, the way this is set up on a ninety is - fuel pump next to tank, with a separate external fuel filter (like a diesel filter). From this, a fuel line to the swirl pot. A fuel return line comes out of the swirl pot, and back into the tank. From the bottom of the swirl pot, a third line goes straight to the carb. Grateful for any help. I'd really like to get this sorted out for him. Richard

Hardest part of the bulkhead replacement is the undoing of the various nuts holding the sill channels to the foot of the bulkhead. There are two nuts fitted to two captive bolts, which are connected by a thin strip of steel. So if your bolts are stuck, which they normally are, the application of too much force will tear the steel strip and make it necessary to cut the little beggars out. If you can stretch to a new set of sill channels, you can cut the old ones off and remove the stumps from the bulkhead once its off the vehicle - much easier! And the new sills will make reassembly much easier. check the fit of the doors before you tighten up all the bulkhead fittings. Otherwise just take your time, make notes, label wiring connectors, and you shouldn't have too much trouble. best of luck.

Job now down, tilt fitted, easy when you know how! cheers, all.

Of Course!!! Now it all makes perfect sense! Yet another problem solved - thanks all.

thanks for the quick response, chaps. I can get them to move now, but they're very stiff. And the spring pressing on the black plastic handle seems to spread the two sides of the gap, if that makes sense, when they're in the tightened position. I've attached some pics of the layout of the handle assembly, and the header rail. All seems normal. I'm worried that the spring will gouge great chunks out of the black plastic every time the thing is tightened. And there doesn't seem much room for the tilt - I assume you just feed the thick corded section into the front when it's loosened, then tighten the handles? I've put soft tops on series vehicles before, but never on a 110. Just don't want to break anything by tightening too hard.

Guys and gals, just converted my 110 from hard top to soft top. Only thing left to do now is to fit the header rail over the windscreen. I've got the four plastic levers and springs, but can't get them to fit without totally compressing the springs, in whatever angle I try. So that when the rail is fitted, the levers are too tight to move. Anyone any idea what I'm doing wrong?????

I've bought a new ignition switch/steering lock assembly for my 2.5 NA 110. Everything seems to be working okay, except for the starter. I've identified that there's power from each of the pins when the key is in the appropriate position. So that's okay. And i've identified the pin which gets powered last, ie when the key is turned against the spring to its fullest extent, which would have to be the starter feed. Trouble is, when the starter feed is on this pin, nothing happens. i can swap the starter feed and the fuel shut off feed, but the starter then spins almost immediately. The pin I reckon should have the starter wire on it is only giving out around 10v, while the others are reading 11.5 or thereabouts. Could this be my problem - a faulty switch?