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Everything posted by discomikey

  1. Thanks for the recommendation Ross. First of all, Mods if this isn't allowed then feel free to take down. We could certainly take on the work but unfortunately at the moment we are booked up until around September for larger jobs. I'll drop you a PM with my contact details and we can discuss options if you wish. Cheers
  2. Looking Great Daan! Thank you for your custom and we were glad to help! This is a thread I'd somehow missed until now but I'll certainly be following the build!
  3. I would rcommend genuine for all of that unfortunately, I'd actually be surprised if you can buy these parts aftermarket to be honest. Cheers
  4. Hi, Yeah in the UK we call a compressor a supercharger, it's the same thing. If it has been ran with the belt off and you still have the same issue I would probably discount that. If it were me, I would replace all chains, it's the kind of job that I'd like to do once and know its all good. Pay attention to the condition of the tensioning system, I haven't had the timing case off an Aj126 but I am assuming it's tensioned by oil pressure so make sure the tensioning pistons are free and working properly
  5. Hi MarcinD. It's hard to tell what the noise is/where its coming from on a video, especially when my phone speaker is knackered. I have seen a couple of failing superchargers that make a metallic noise though, if it were me I'd place a stethoscope on various areas of the supercharger and timing case to see if you can pinpoint the location of the noise before ordering parts. 56k miles shouldn't be a problem for a timing chain, but the earlier 5.0L AJ133 engines did have some tensioner/chain issues. I've not seen this personally though the only issues I have seen was bottom end issues on the early part of development engines we've seen (fixed for production} , and they don't take kindly to being raced without coolant.
  6. I've been in a few vehicles with patrol Y61 axles behind an Lt230, Some have had drive train vibration on overrun badly, some haven't at all. That's more to do with unequal UJ angles (diff pinion vs t box angle) than lateral offset. That being said I'd aim for moving the diff closer to in line if possible, as its less kind on the UJ's etc We've flipped a few Y61 rear casings to give a RH drop instead of the very slightly LH drop as standard, and added trussing and full bolt on LR mounts. I'd highly recommend doing this. Get your measurements right and the original shafts fit in, just on the other side. Different axle yes, but you might be able to apply that theory to your 609 casing, to get it more in line.
  7. Just scrolling through the forum and came across this. In jest I say, I think 2020 has decided for you! Here's to hoping we can all get some enjoyment out of our cars this summer!
  8. I couldn't say on that one to be honest. If you're going down the route of changing arms for handling I'd recommend considering D2 arms and watts linkage rear. I find the D2 geometry handles favourably.
  9. For what I do, the more "useless" information I can retain the better! Also if you use a lot you get to know the drill size off by heart. Ill send you some
  10. Hope this helps You've already dropped me a PM. If you just need a couple send me your address and I'll post them over. I thought of I replied here rather than on the PM it may help with others in the future who come across this thread
  11. What is the diameter of the holes now? It's worth noting that there are different types of rivnut, I believe we have at least 3 different types of M6 riv nuts at work, all with different outer diameters. I believe off the top of my head 7, 8 and 9mm od. we also have M8 riv nuts with a 10mm od if that's any help? If you need any sending over drop me a PM
  12. Sorry to hear about your bad run of luck! Glad to hear you're getting back at it. If you're after inverter MIG welders I can recommend: Kemppi in general (but with euro torch) R tech 250, Esab Rebel Thermal Arc My general rule of thumb is don't touch anything that doesn't come with a euro torch as standard. It looks like you have a decent budget from the link so you should get a lot of MIG for your money. If you wanted older proven transformer technology, I can't recommend Oxford enough. Cheers,
  13. yeah that's spot on. I'm struggling to picture what you mean.
  14. They are in fact, cleverly simple inside. each bypass tube consists of a needle/ball valve with a spring, the spring only acts as a one way valve. Its position/orientation on the body alters what effect it has and at what point on the travel of the damper. Inside, the piston /shim stacks are laid out conventionally. There really isn't much to go wrong. and they prove to be reliable in use. Internal bypass is another feature. it is effectively a bumpstop, consisting of another pair of shim stacks, (one acting as the bump stop and the other acting as a one way valve to replenish the void with oil when rebounding, There is a needle in the top of the damper that goes into the hollow shaft in the last portion of travel, this needle acts as a piston forcing the oil inside the hollow shaft through the secondary shim stack.
  15. That's the car. The dampers are built to spec ££££ bilstein and contain an internal bump stop system, which would replace the hydro bump as seen on U4 and some comp safari cars. Generally speaking, a normal damper or coilover does not have a specific ride height it is tuned for. Bypass dampers are a bit more complex and the position of the tubes determines a rising rate at a certain point in the travel. The reason they are used in Ultra4 is because they are much more tuneable to deal with some of the extreme terrains and the requirement of controlling the hefty weight of the axles we require to stay reliable. - more parts yes, but a night and day difference to a single coilover on a car that is required to change from Grade A fire road tracks to serious rock crawling and back within the space of seconds. The ability to drop a couple of inches of ride height on the road is attractive, but you soon learn to adapt. As someone that has spent more than the average amount of time behind high powered "defender shaped objects" and defenders, you can confidently pedal them into a corner of set up well at normal height once you get used to it's attitude. And yes they respond well to a Scandinavian flick, especially discoveries with the heavier rear! Just my 2p
  16. The Bowler fast road and rally setups are very good for a bolt on solution to a standard defender - Take a look at some of the defender challenge footage. It wasn't uncommon for one or two of the drivers to keep up with/overtake scoobies on stage. Going a step up, take a look at the Bowler V6 110 Supercharged rally car. Live axle again but with some easily achievable modifications to geometry etc. - Radius arm all round, watts linkage rear, and Bilstien Coilovers. There is a video of it somewhere passing a tomcat at sweetlamb as if it was stood still! I can never find it on youtube though! It was seriously rapid! as @RedLineMike states, springs and dampers are critical! thats where you need to spend the money. Anti roll bars are something to be considered to fine tune the car's "attitude" - Don't get me wrong they make a lot of difference, but this needs to be understood, and depends on driving style, terrain, and various other things. I would stick with the setup you have for anti roll bars for now, then play with them after springs/dampers Increased caster over standard is something i only ever consider as a good thing. but you can go too far of course. agreed! I think the Ultra4 world is a great example of what both types of suspension can be like - For Land Rovers driving "a bit quick" on farm track type ground I'd definitely be looking at what the comp safari/hill rally guys run. The number one thing you absolutely need to do, is set the car up. whatever you buy, don't just bolt it on and call it done. If you can't rebuild and shim your dampers, be very sure that they are intended/set up for what YOU want. for that reason I would avoid them. Unless they are the defender challenge spec Bilstien piggy back dampers - hundreds of hours went into tuning them, but they are set up for a 90, with a cage, and a TDCI drivetrain. You need to calculate spring rates and spend a fair amount of time dialling in the damping rates. If you buy Fox, they normally ask what your vehicle is and what youre going to be doing with it etc, and put a preliminary setup in it that will be close to right. Most other manufacturers put nominal shim stacks in and send it out the door, and there is no way the same damper will be correct for both a lightweight independent comp safari car and trophy truck! Sorry for the rabble. It's an interesting/relevant topic for me and I have only just spotted the thread.
  17. Air suspension - in the form of air shocks - is used fairly regularly in off road competition. It can work pretty well. Using LR type rubber bags in competition is something I would avoid, But if it's just for fun why not give it a go - risks assessed of course. However, the complexity of the system may increase cost quicker than you might expect. I would strongly suggest looking into coilovers, or even decent (not +2" off the shelf type) coil springs, and remote reservoir dampers. regardless of spring/damper choice i would recommend hydro bumps. Drop me a PM if you want any information on suspension choice, Coilover/Damper/airshock supply and tuning, spring rates etc, we supply and service Terrafirma and Fox stuff
  18. No problem at all guys. Drop me an email mike@blackbirdindustries.co.uk with anything from a fag packet drawing to a ready to cut DXF and your material requirements/quantities and I'll do my best to help out.
  19. we already do a P38 conversion kit for Defender chassis. Although thats normaly a resulant requirement from engine conversions to gain space. Looking forward to seeing the finished conversion Joe!
  20. Yes, we've been racing together for years and decided to make the plunge and work for ourselves. Thanks for the follow!
  21. Mods please delete if not allowed.. I have a CNC plasma, I don't charge a setup fee, and a pressbrake. I can work to cad drawings or sketches. Drop me an email mike@blackbirdindustries.co.uk Hope this helps,
  22. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264001894926 Use this type. They are much much better than the pressed steel type. The leave a clean edge and don't wander on entry. These ones are cheap as chips and are still brilliant but not very deep. I would expect a brand name version to be deeper to allow cutting through a 15mm plate
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