discomikey

that sounds very interesting! would love to see that in action!

Parts have arrived and the first few circuits almost complete (lighting harness) fusebox and relay board are being populated as i go along and each "set" of wires destined for a different location have been seperated out and temporarily taped together at a rough length to be cut down when fitted. not much in the way of pretty pictures yet though! I have ordered the bulkhead connectors today at an overall cost of £56. not cheap but will make the harness so much smarter and more serviceable. my original plan was to mount them to a plate replacing the grommet plate where the harness normally comes through. although unfortunately these connectors aren't quite compact enough to get more than two in each side without modification. i could get 3 in at a push with some grinding: However, as i have a scrap twisted bulkhead. i can nick the pressed opening panels from that and use them to extend the original hole on my bulkhead. like so: meaning i can get 4 bulkhead plugs in the drivers side, and still get 2 in the passengers side. a couple more angles so you get where im heading:

i have never found that flex is the downfall off road for my series (with various makes of parabolics over the years). In fact, its better than most defenders for that. i have found that the only downfall in comparison to a coiler is the amount of under axle clearance when on shorter profile tyres. The spring plates can act as a plow sometimes. although its not very commonly an issue. i am a little dubious as to how much benefit (considering the amount of work to fit them) there is.

Lewis, unfortunately (if I have the date correct, 26th september) I won't be able to make it this time as it falls on my graduation weekend (I know... how the hell I managed to graduate still baffles me!) But having now been to the site I'm well up for it next time it's on!

there are lots of things you could do, switched stop solenoid feed, immobiliser (just immobiliser not alarm too), hidden isolater key, pedal lock, gearbox lock, etc. most of this you will have do design and build for yourself. the companies who do this for defender don't see a profit in series vehicles unfortunately.

ahh, my bad!

V8 lt77 combos did leave the factory, if you can get hold of the right flywheel housing and flywheel from those, they should fit an r380 with the moving of a stud or 2?

Does this answer? Fuse and relay layout diagram:

Update time: I have ordered everything i should need to make a start on the lighting harness. I've also created a costing spreadsheet so we can see how much it totals to. The initial parts orders arrived: This includes 2x busbar, 100x fuseboard terminals, some wires for going from the busbars to the fusebox and relays etc, and the relay holders arrived. Still to arrive are the lighitng harness wires, along with the econoseal connectors for later style sidelights, proper headlight bulb connectors and some double contact relays for the headlights. I fabricated the fuseboard bracket: Here's the wiring diagram i created to help me spec everything@ and the connector layout diagram to help me spec multiplugs etc and the location of the fusebox: I've been de-pinning the fusebox and the first 5 or 6 terminals came out really easy, the rest however have put up a real fight! still not finished yet.

likewise, glad to see you not traybacking. if you plan to enter competitions, check that the bend radius is sufficient to pass the relevant cage standard. (if it even is classed as part of the cage or not)

so have i!

iv'e seen a prepro puma, it didnt have a mount there, but did have the bent piece of steel. I'd heard it was for transport purposes, dont know how true that is though because what would you gain from having it there? apart from extra BOM cost and extra weld fixture cost.

^^ Thats the one, saves me asking haha

Can you see the mechanism from behind the grill? Try lying on the floor under the bumper? You may need to remove the skid plate

IIRC a friend of a friend has one on his 300TDi discovery, i shall enquire!

Oh dear! Unfortunately all too easily done though in today's busy environments though!

I think i posted a comparison screenshot in my LT77 thread. however revs as follows: LT77 & 230 (@1.222:1 ratio) 3.54:1 diffs and 31.5" tyres: 90kph (55mph): 1956RPM 128kph (80mph): 2845RPM 4 speed, overdrive, 3.54 diffs and 31.5" tyres: 90kph: 1861.5RPM 128kph: 2707RPM Increase in RPM from series box: 90kph: 94.5RPM 128kph: 138RPM

I shall have a look later, it's all theoretical using ash crofts gear calculator. As I have no Rev gauge or desire to fit one. My trip to wales was more than bearable though it definitely revved a little more but not excessively. Still happily sits at 80

Set a box section receiver into the floor, so you can lock a box section post into it. Weld a row all to the top of the post and hitch your trailer to the post. Lock your trailer onto the post and even if they can pull any drawbar they'll have to get it off the post in the first place.

I'm running coiler diffs and 235/85 tyres. (31.5" tall), it does rev slightly more at motorway speeds than before when i had the 4 speed and overdrive, but i still returned 30MPG on my 400 mile round trip to King of Wales and back. (i used to regularly return 32, i suspect the drop in MPG was due to my speed on the way down though! either way, the slight increase in revs is a happy comprimise for the advantages of the 5 speed!

posting these for hosting for a PM. for those interested, its the fusebox i ripped out my '91 200TDi disco when i stripped it out.

That's accounting for spots, dip, main beam, heated screen/mirrors etc and a couple spare slots for the future. I need to add a glow plug relay (hoping I can use one of those holders) and a timer relay for the heaters. The flasher unit will be mounted seperately somewhere nearby

Tiki, what size tyres you running? I was planning on converting to electronic speedo to correct my speed, but If mechanical is spot on then I'll just get the blue gear and a new cable

In which case, when you pull the gearbox, have a strip of steel handy with a hole in same size as the bellhousing bolts. Remove the box making sure to keep the torque converter fully mated to the gearbox, when put on the floor, bend your piece of metal enough to keep pressure on the torque converter and bolt it to. Bellhousing hole. This stops the concert or falling out while in storage.

Yeah, the torque converter u bolts from the flex plate through an inspection hole, usually found opposite side of the engine from the starter motor Other than that and the bell housing bolts theres nothing to it. It's making sure the torque concert or is seated properly into the gearbox during refitting that's the important bit otherwise your oil pump may not engage, although you probably won't be doing that