discomikey

I'm currently in the process of collecting parts for a 2 part propshaft system, to go along with my LT230 for the front axle drive. I will use a 3 bolt flange and rubber donut (its selectable 2wd so i expect the donut to last a long time) and a discovery rear prop cut down and welded to an old diff pinion shaft to gain a removable 4 bolt flange. I will then add a support bearing assembly to this shaft and attach a standard series front prop to this. i'm hoping this should work

shouldn't have posted that ash... Off to the shed!

may well be something to do with the clutch plate then? it may have disintegrated

Hi all, I, like many others in the LR world have a long term restoration project. Mine is a 1959 Series II, Its on a galv chassis, the engine and box are in, I've had it running once or twice, the axles are under it etc and the bulkhead, tub and interior are in, and painted (inside only) Its waiting on front wings which i recently picked up before i can start on exterior paint. (I want to paint it all in one go to ensure a good colour match) The problem is, i never ever work on it. Its been in the exact same state for around 2 years now, and i never have any motivation to work on it. Ive had some setbacks, the thing doesn't drive currently and it just gets in the way in my workshop which means its stored in another shed and therefore never thought of, and a PITA to take the tools round to it or move it. I know once i get it running and driving i will be more motivated as it will be easy to move in and out the workshop. anyone have any suggestions? i sometimes get urges to go and work on it and then decide i really cant be bothered. Its a shame, because so far its looking really quite smart, but things are starting to sieze up on it now like the pedals and the steering. which is even more offputting.

work clothes! Mug! some kind of 10 years LR4x4 plaque (can be fitted to vehicles, rather than just a sticker) A show stand at one of the upcoming shows, for poeple to actually come and meet fellow forumers?

first of all... Sorry, i am looking for a particular piece of clarification, preferably a reliable source. would a change in road spring (i.e. parabolic spring on a series, or HD/lifted coil spring on a coiler) act as a modified suspension system and therefore remove the 2 points? Cheers all.

very smart!!!

try it in difflock to move it as stated above

i have similar (same design different box) kit to the top one in your post western, it does a good enough job. i'd just like to have the "proper" bit of kit. i'm like that

that seems rather odd! i would have thought LR special vehicles would have mounted a cage to the chassis.

tie it back to a tree, set it in gear, get out and look underneath. but please dont get underneath it! if a prop is spinning, you have an axle problem. if nothing, it is a gearbox/transfer box problem. would be safer if you had someone to sit in the car while you looked.

most likely true, but it doesn't make sense being that any coil land rover up to circa end of 300TDi disco were essentially the same underneath!

watching wheeler dealers the other day, Ed china mentioned you could get one of this type for around £50 not sure what he was smoking? If by any chance you can, and someone finds it. please post a link here!

and it obviously helps you stop when winching down hill. The brake does make a clicking/slipping gear noise which is quite alarming the first time you hear it. My TDS goldfish makes that noise. Its hardly ever used, so i doubt its a problem however i have no idea if its meant to make that noise or not haha. no doubt someone with more winching experience will be along to enlighten us shortly

sorry if this has been suggested previously in the thread. I've only just flicked through im only on a short break. What about requiring the vehicles to be signed off by a qualified engineer to be "fit for purpose" and have a list of criteria which must be met. wont cost the price of an MOT but should ensure you keep the carp out,

as stated above, it will be more than likely due to the slack in the drive train. each component has a springyness, which under normal use doesn't show its head. If there is excessive slack the "springyness" is wound up by the inertia created before that slack is taken up, this is then relieved when the springyness overcomes the inertia, and it bounces back through the slack and out to the other side. this in turn starts the whole lot over and over. This process, like everything ever, has a resonant frequency. It just so happens that your resonant frequency is at an annoying point and is often experienced. In order to solve this the best thing to do is to reduce the slack in the system.

you can get IP67 rated D connectors. Try RS components. Edit: Bowie beat me to it!

They may well supply the unit with the bearings already pressed on as an option. Thats what i asked for with my rear axle unit. then i just had to fit the races.

Unfortunately, i'm not familiar with the inside of an LT77 as of yet. all too familiar with the LT76 though!

Bodumatau, it will reduce center diff backlash, not necisarily all of transfer box backlash though. Judging by the quality of the machine work, and the fact the axle ATB's are miles stronger than a standard axle diff, i should suspect it will be quite a bit stronger than a standard center diff. (they are still lockable too)

The Picaxe is a perfectly good microcontroller, however processing power and speed is limited in comparison to others. for something like controlling a speedo output it is perfectly adequate though!

Dailtsleaze, it doesn't state what type of input they require, do you know by any chance? is it a pre programmed screen and plug and play sensors? do you have to program it via a microcontroller, if so, does it require multi pin digital signals or a single pin serial signal?

if its anything like the ATB i have for my back axle, it should be a great piece of kit! 10/10

Thats where my quest for an electronic speedo comes in. I'm going to use the Picaxe controller (that i have knocking about) to read a speedo transducer signal, and convert it to the relevant output. Entirely programmable and therefore i should be able to get it pretty spot on with some trial and error. I may upgrade to an arduino if i ever get round to fitting cruise and an MPG readout though. Might create my own "turbo timer" too.

The ones i am using are series diesel rubbers, which are harder compound.