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  1. if you where going to build yours I would recommended having a look a hot end from E3D possible have a look a Volcano hot end it has nozzle from 0.6mm-1.2mm ive been using 0.8mm nozzel printing 0.6mm layer height parts are very strong and still look pretty good apart from they are obviously slightly lower resolution. I have no affiliation with them just happy with what there product can do. pronterface the reprap software I have found to be pretty good on a windows machine so I dont think that should put you off. Also slic3r the G-code generating software is very good with lots of options which I personally prefer. Also id have a look at Octoprint which is software the goes on a raspberry pi so that you can run the printer from a web browser over the network probable something to do later on but useful for monitoring prints and being somewhere else. other suggestion voltage, you can run 24v, controller board I would go with RAMPS 1.4 and there for a normal arduino mega2560 wich means dealing with firmware is pretty hassle free, I would run DRV8825 stepper driver wich are better than A4988 type, P3Steel frame its 3mm steel frame no adjusting just bolt it together job done I think it probable the best reprap frame out there. anyway just my suggestions after building 2 printers.....have fun
  2. this is indeed open source the manual is quite reasonable. There is a windows application to control the arduino so a fair amount of work has gone into it. improbable going to build the version that has the arduino mirco pro plug into the board and just build the rest of the board on variboard. it would be interesting to get this 16 bit ADC chip though, to get the better resolution as this design comes up against the same issues that have been talked about on here already. It looks like the voltage is set in the divider and then you cant change it after so I dont know how well it will work with different thickness off metal needing different voltages etc anyway i dont really know enough about plasmas at the mo more research needed.....and build the thing.... and see what happens https://github.com/regeg/ArdunioTHC
  3. my table is now up and running and totally agree with rob its a great tool. im finding DraftSight/ Sheet cam/ Mach3 is a great combination. Did either of you look more into the THC I would have been tempted to get the proma at the price its at, but doesnt sound like it works that great so im looking else where. ive come across this https://github.com/regeg/ArdunioTHC and tempted to give it a shot and see what happens....i can see there being issues running a standard plasma cutter with no cnc outputs.
  4. Hi Simon wow this was a wile ago. What happened in the end was they ended up putting two a few fuel additive bottle that you can get into the tank for cleaning the fuel rail then drive it around with higher revs so its a bit hotter so that would help clean the EGR. That was the advice given by a garage. And that was the last of if to my knowledge they haven't had any problems since. sorry I cant be any more help oh and they have a manual not auto Ben
  5. I built one out of plaster board, theres a hole in the bottom and some smaller in the top. Its about 3-4 layers thick. Oviosly this isnt finished and it has a door now etc. I think plaster board is the right material cheap and dense you can get the more sound proofing plaster board but its three times the cost last time i looked. Id like in the future to take the compressor of the tank and then just have the compressor in a smaller/thicker box. Ben
  6. Picked up my box of bits on thursday and saw simon and the original, i was real impressed by the design and plating was spot on. Really looking forward to getting it running. So thanks again simon and everyone on here for making this sort or thing happen
  7. from the pics on the first page it looks like more heat would be good, and defently if you are putting solder on top of solder. soldering sould be a quick operation that you do once and dont go over gain. if it looks ugly its probable not a great joint, a good joint sould look clean and shiny. lead solder is better as it help everything flow together. Why it dificult to get because of RoHS compliancy, they are trying to remove lead from products so its better for the enviroment and lead doesnt end up in land fill etc etc. Saying that it looks like you can get 60/40 tin/lead in maplins at the moment wich would be good. If you hadn't done tones of soldering you wouldnt known, but i have. From my exsperiance the flux ive sujected is good and well worth it if it wasent i wouldnt have suggested it on here. anyway its just a suggestion take it or leave it.I'll say no more.
  8. if your using lead free solder it can be a pain. if you can find some one with old solder with lead in it, it will work alot better. I would defiantly use Fluxite solderning paste on lead free stuff it makes a world of difference. Its a green tin with a goblin on it..... its also quite exspencive at £10 for a small tin but will last you forever. hope that helps
  9. i've just got a UN9U Ram mount for my ipad, i think its an-amazing piece of kit really well made and very functional fixing and unfixing the ipad but not perticualy cheap. To do with the bendy arm or ball joints it seams there are different sizes of ball joint the 1" ball is suppose to be light use upto 5lb and rugged use upto 2lb. So technically with an ipad and the un9u mount it should be ok but it doesn't sound like it is. So the next size is 1.5 inch ball and is good for 10lb light use and 5lb rugged use.......anyway i manage to order the smaller one because i didn't know that there where larger ones seams mudstuff only do the 1inch ball.
  10. right next to the passenger side engine mount. or at least this was the case with my 200 when I had it....
  11. have you checked the dip stick when running? i had broken piston rings and it was chuffing out there as well.
  12. then put a Denzo tape around them so the mud doesn't get back in.
  13. http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/10kg_Bag_of_Rags__A1_Coloured_Clothes_-75428-p haven't ordered from them so don't know what they are like yet....
  14. I was given then bought a few of these 24 led round lights from sainsburys and found it to be really useful the magnet on the back fixes to the chassis a treat lasts for ages and gives a good pretty good light and the price was good to http://www.sainsburys.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=44&productId=56066&storeId=10151&krypto=XIuYv%2FJNKCLBsm54DcSAXxttW8U5UtBHBXe4Smhpa5l3fmOptiRMx7NMNT1l6S8MyCa3HXJvPIvA%0ATYvoZEoSvfqrUpAodkZlZ9aj%2F1kqHuSc8dCV7GsEA9oRlXm%2FbhDH
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