v8Dougie

Got any pics??

Now I am befuddled...if not enough oxygen causes not all the fuel to be burnt, the end effect would surely be the rich exhaust gas?? I do agree though that high hydrocarbons means running rich, so doesn't seem like I am right...I wonder if the cat has been killed

A bit more fuel?? High CO levels means unburnt fuel does it not, so either a misfire or too much fuel going in surely? Neither of these are happening (I do not think) so I assume it is residual fuel as the car has not been used. Fingers crossed it'll be that simple, a good thrash!

Bit of an update...I got the OEM Bosch part from trusted local factors for £60, it has been fitted and has resolved the high STFT now both banks are sitting around 1:1 and the voltage is now cycling nicely on upstream sensor, and the downstream sensor is sitting level around 0.45v The garage tested the emissions again and it still failed...but see below the previous values and values now CO: Limit: <0.2% Previous: 4.11% Now: 0.54% HC: Limit: <200ppm Previous: 155 Now: 45 Lambda: Range: 0.97-1.03 Previous: 0.891 Now: 1.008 So now at least it has only failed on CO, and also not by anywhere near as much. Still no misfires or other signs, no EML on or pending codes. My thoughts are now it needs a damn good thrashing to clear out all the excess fuel and crud in the system from the o2 sensor fault? Any other thoughts?

Okay, so it seems I need to upgrade the Hawkeye to get it to reset the values, currently on v4, and the capability came in on v5 of the software, now v7 is available!! In the meantime the local garage swapped over upstream o2 sensors for me, and I can now confirm the below: Fuel trim bank A constant on 1.25:1 previously 1:1Fuel trim bank B hovers around 1:1 previously 1.25:1Upstream O2 Bank A constant on 0.25v previously cycling Upstream O2 Bank B cycles between 0.1v and 0.9v happily previously constant on 0.06v So I am assuming that the O2 sensor which is NOW on bank A is faulty. Any recommendations on where to get one? The ones in there were supposed genuine fitted 18months ago, sourced from FourPlus4 for £110+vat each! Local motor factor can get Bosch ones for £50, any suggestions?

Thanks Ally V8, without being dim could anyone talk me through resettiing the values using my Hawkeye. I have done some searching and it seems it is possible however there is no information on how to do it. I have borrowed the Hawkeye off a friend who has even less knowledge of how to use it than me!

Hi all, a bit of help please. I am ashamed to say that my fathers D2 failed it's MOT back in April this year on emissions and I am only just getting round to sorting it for him. It failed for the following reasons: Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content at idle excessive (7.3.d.4) Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive (7.3.d.3) Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content at idle excessive when tested on gas (7.3.d.4) So a bit of back ground, this car was bought with a bad misfire. Was found that the liners had dropped when the previous owner had the heads skimmed. The engine was removed and refitted by Mechanical Workshop in Leicestershire under direction by John Eales who rebuilt the engine and enlarged from 4.0 to 4.6. There were a few teething problems after as there often is and it has had a new ECU and all o2 sensors replaced. All ran well then for a year, few minor disco hiccups but then failed the MOT for emissions. I have borrowed a Hawkeye and had a look today, got the engine nice and warm and I found the below: Fuel trim bank A hovers around 1:1 Fuel trim bank B constant on 1.25:1 Upstream O2 Bank A cycles between 0.1v and 0.9v happily Upstream O2 Bank B constant on 0.06v Downstream O2 Bank A cycles between 0.2v and 0.8v slower than the Upstream one Downstream O2 Bank B constant on 0.45v The car starts and runs ok, sounds a bit lumpy and I get a pop on overrun from the exhaust. If I am right bank B is over fueling massively (1.25:1), because the upstream o2 is telling the ECU the car is running lean (0.06v). From this it would seem the O2 sensor is faulty, however they are all new (less than 18 months old) and genuine Land Rover parts, any other thoughts? Another issue seems to be that the cat on bank A is faulty. I believe the reading should be constant around 0.45v as bank B is, however it cycles up and down, any other suggestions? Are there any checks I can do? I believe the O2 sensors are the same, upstream at least, so I am thinking on swapping them over and see if the over fueling follows the sensor, if so sensor is faulty. If it does not, then what else could it be? Could either of the issues stated above cause the high CO2 levels found in the MOT? Just to be clear, the car has a new oil filter, fresh oil, new plugs and coil packs & HT leads. Air filter is new too. The car does have LPG however I am not using that at the moment. It was working perfectly fine however seems to now have a bad misfire, so just sticking to petrol (no misfires) for now. Look forward to your help!

Thanks for the recommendations chaps however in the end after speaking to the garages down in Redditch I decided it would be less stress to just get the vehicle recovered back to Leeds. Anyway all fixed now, turned out to be the sediment catcher (rear fuel filter) which is aluminium and apparently known for failing. It had the lot, full of water and mud and the fuel pipe had rotted through so was sticking in air. It is like a different car now, back to what it was like 10yrs ago when first acquired. Must have been getting worse over time! Thanks all for your help.

Great start thanks. Like the looks of a couple of them, will call them all and get some quotes. All at least 15mins from my sister's house, which normally would be acceptable but with an immobile car causes issues!! Buts MJA 4x4 in the lead given they clearly do recovery!

Hi all, My father's beloved Disco 300tdi became my sister's new family mover earlier this year. I have maintained the vehicle for the past 10years personally up north doing everything including head gasket and wiring reconstruction when he boiled it to piston rings which failed as a result. My sister lives in Redditch and she called the other week to say the car has lost all power. Starts eventually, idles a bit lumpy, revs just about but with blue/white smoke but has no power when being driven. I havr been to have a poke around and think the woodruff key has worn and timing gone out as a result. Timing belt is due for replacement anyway, but the car is obviously dead 2.5hrs away from me. Any suggestions of a decent, Land Rover or slightly older vehicle biased garage in the Redditch area? Unless suggested otherwise I'd be keen to buy the parts so I get all the right decent brand ones for the garage to fit, so that rules a lot of places out. Any suggestions greatly appreciated

Thanks BennehBoy that is very kind. Have the car back but have a new issue to deal with first, leaking coolant pipe!! Will get back on this once this is fixed!!

If I ever get the car back from the garage then I will have a go at this. Went in last Friday for a replacement starter motor and Watts linkage changed, they keep finding knackered bushes at the back and ordering them one by one despite me telling them to just do the lot!! Grrr. Thanks for the suggestions though!

I like discokev's response better, no offence BennehBoy!! I haven't done many miles in the car since I have had it, bought it with a misfire so had the engine rebuilt. The guy I bought it off gave me a 25ltr barrel of ATF which he had done a gearbox change with. Perhaps the problem happened after that? It definitely happened before I had the oil changed, and before the cooler pipe popped, but it has definitely got worse. Could be as you say that the ATF has free'd up some crud. I didn't do the oil changes a garage did, they said the oil was quite fresh that came out. I'll have a look at the XYZ switch, but why would it engage gear with revving the engine? I have heard about starting it in neutral, then going to drive as it is Reverse which is where the problem is on the switch, other check is if the rear wiper comes on when the front are on and you select reverse. Strange thing is, I am sure it will always engage reverse, it is just forward gears it won't! Can't even check now as the car is back in the garage getting the starter motor changed and the post cat lambdas swapped over!

Hi all. My 2003 Disco is having a few occasional gearbox issues. So, sometimes, normally when cold, start the car, select drive but the car does not creep. To get it to engage you have to rev the engine hard, then it will drop in. Been doing this occasionally for a while, but now getting worse, more often and when it does drop in the gearbox now goes into limp mode (flashing green M & S lights on dash and flashing D). Turn engine off, start it again, and all is well. Gearbox drives otherwise as it should I think, only auto Disco 2 I have ever had, the gearbox is a bit lumpy and lazy in comparison to the super slick Disco 3 gearbox and my Saab 9-5 one but I assume that is correct as older technology. Fluid should be fine (I will check though) as the fluid was changed a couple of months back and no major leaks. Fluid was changed again a few weeks after as one of the cooler pipes blew. Anything else I could check? Battery is brand new as I have seen that as a cause in some other threads. At a bit of a loss really, so any help much appreciated.

The below information from the workshop manual, and after asking on the disco3.co.uk forum, the link to the information too.. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/SDS002_V8_cylinder_numbering.pdf First two images from the workshop manual seem conclusive, then the info in the link just muddies the water!!