v8Dougie

Got any pics??

Now I am befuddled...if not enough oxygen causes not all the fuel to be burnt, the end effect would surely be the rich exhaust gas?? I do agree though that high hydrocarbons means running rich, so doesn't seem like I am right...I wonder if the cat has been killed

A bit more fuel?? High CO levels means unburnt fuel does it not, so either a misfire or too much fuel going in surely? Neither of these are happening (I do not think) so I assume it is residual fuel as the car has not been used. Fingers crossed it'll be that simple, a good thrash!

Bit of an update...I got the OEM Bosch part from trusted local factors for £60, it has been fitted and has resolved the high STFT now both banks are sitting around 1:1 and the voltage is now cycling nicely on upstream sensor, and the downstream sensor is sitting level around 0.45v The garage tested the emissions again and it still failed...but see below the previous values and values now CO: Limit: <0.2% Previous: 4.11% Now: 0.54% HC: Limit: <200ppm Previous: 155 Now: 45 Lambda: Range: 0.97-1.03 Previous: 0.891 Now: 1.008 So now at least it has only failed on CO, and also not by anywhere near as much. Still no misfires or other signs, no EML on or pending codes. My thoughts are now it needs a damn good thrashing to clear out all the excess fuel and crud in the system from the o2 sensor fault? Any other thoughts?

Okay, so it seems I need to upgrade the Hawkeye to get it to reset the values, currently on v4, and the capability came in on v5 of the software, now v7 is available!! In the meantime the local garage swapped over upstream o2 sensors for me, and I can now confirm the below: Fuel trim bank A constant on 1.25:1 previously 1:1Fuel trim bank B hovers around 1:1 previously 1.25:1Upstream O2 Bank A constant on 0.25v previously cycling Upstream O2 Bank B cycles between 0.1v and 0.9v happily previously constant on 0.06v So I am assuming that the O2 sensor which is NOW on bank A is faulty. Any recommendations on where to get one? The ones in there were supposed genuine fitted 18months ago, sourced from FourPlus4 for £110+vat each! Local motor factor can get Bosch ones for £50, any suggestions?

Thanks Ally V8, without being dim could anyone talk me through resettiing the values using my Hawkeye. I have done some searching and it seems it is possible however there is no information on how to do it. I have borrowed the Hawkeye off a friend who has even less knowledge of how to use it than me!

Hi all, a bit of help please. I am ashamed to say that my fathers D2 failed it's MOT back in April this year on emissions and I am only just getting round to sorting it for him. It failed for the following reasons: Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content at idle excessive (7.3.d.4) Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive (7.3.d.3) Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content at idle excessive when tested on gas (7.3.d.4) So a bit of back ground, this car was bought with a bad misfire. Was found that the liners had dropped when the previous owner had the heads skimmed. The engine was removed and refitted by Mechanical Workshop in Leicestershire under direction by John Eales who rebuilt the engine and enlarged from 4.0 to 4.6. There were a few teething problems after as there often is and it has had a new ECU and all o2 sensors replaced. All ran well then for a year, few minor disco hiccups but then failed the MOT for emissions. I have borrowed a Hawkeye and had a look today, got the engine nice and warm and I found the below: Fuel trim bank A hovers around 1:1 Fuel trim bank B constant on 1.25:1 Upstream O2 Bank A cycles between 0.1v and 0.9v happily Upstream O2 Bank B constant on 0.06v Downstream O2 Bank A cycles between 0.2v and 0.8v slower than the Upstream one Downstream O2 Bank B constant on 0.45v The car starts and runs ok, sounds a bit lumpy and I get a pop on overrun from the exhaust. If I am right bank B is over fueling massively (1.25:1), because the upstream o2 is telling the ECU the car is running lean (0.06v). From this it would seem the O2 sensor is faulty, however they are all new (less than 18 months old) and genuine Land Rover parts, any other thoughts? Another issue seems to be that the cat on bank A is faulty. I believe the reading should be constant around 0.45v as bank B is, however it cycles up and down, any other suggestions? Are there any checks I can do? I believe the O2 sensors are the same, upstream at least, so I am thinking on swapping them over and see if the over fueling follows the sensor, if so sensor is faulty. If it does not, then what else could it be? Could either of the issues stated above cause the high CO2 levels found in the MOT? Just to be clear, the car has a new oil filter, fresh oil, new plugs and coil packs & HT leads. Air filter is new too. The car does have LPG however I am not using that at the moment. It was working perfectly fine however seems to now have a bad misfire, so just sticking to petrol (no misfires) for now. Look forward to your help!

Thanks for the recommendations chaps however in the end after speaking to the garages down in Redditch I decided it would be less stress to just get the vehicle recovered back to Leeds. Anyway all fixed now, turned out to be the sediment catcher (rear fuel filter) which is aluminium and apparently known for failing. It had the lot, full of water and mud and the fuel pipe had rotted through so was sticking in air. It is like a different car now, back to what it was like 10yrs ago when first acquired. Must have been getting worse over time! Thanks all for your help.

Great start thanks. Like the looks of a couple of them, will call them all and get some quotes. All at least 15mins from my sister's house, which normally would be acceptable but with an immobile car causes issues!! Buts MJA 4x4 in the lead given they clearly do recovery!

Hi all, My father's beloved Disco 300tdi became my sister's new family mover earlier this year. I have maintained the vehicle for the past 10years personally up north doing everything including head gasket and wiring reconstruction when he boiled it to piston rings which failed as a result. My sister lives in Redditch and she called the other week to say the car has lost all power. Starts eventually, idles a bit lumpy, revs just about but with blue/white smoke but has no power when being driven. I havr been to have a poke around and think the woodruff key has worn and timing gone out as a result. Timing belt is due for replacement anyway, but the car is obviously dead 2.5hrs away from me. Any suggestions of a decent, Land Rover or slightly older vehicle biased garage in the Redditch area? Unless suggested otherwise I'd be keen to buy the parts so I get all the right decent brand ones for the garage to fit, so that rules a lot of places out. Any suggestions greatly appreciated

Thanks BennehBoy that is very kind. Have the car back but have a new issue to deal with first, leaking coolant pipe!! Will get back on this once this is fixed!!

If I ever get the car back from the garage then I will have a go at this. Went in last Friday for a replacement starter motor and Watts linkage changed, they keep finding knackered bushes at the back and ordering them one by one despite me telling them to just do the lot!! Grrr. Thanks for the suggestions though!

I like discokev's response better, no offence BennehBoy!! I haven't done many miles in the car since I have had it, bought it with a misfire so had the engine rebuilt. The guy I bought it off gave me a 25ltr barrel of ATF which he had done a gearbox change with. Perhaps the problem happened after that? It definitely happened before I had the oil changed, and before the cooler pipe popped, but it has definitely got worse. Could be as you say that the ATF has free'd up some crud. I didn't do the oil changes a garage did, they said the oil was quite fresh that came out. I'll have a look at the XYZ switch, but why would it engage gear with revving the engine? I have heard about starting it in neutral, then going to drive as it is Reverse which is where the problem is on the switch, other check is if the rear wiper comes on when the front are on and you select reverse. Strange thing is, I am sure it will always engage reverse, it is just forward gears it won't! Can't even check now as the car is back in the garage getting the starter motor changed and the post cat lambdas swapped over!

Hi all. My 2003 Disco is having a few occasional gearbox issues. So, sometimes, normally when cold, start the car, select drive but the car does not creep. To get it to engage you have to rev the engine hard, then it will drop in. Been doing this occasionally for a while, but now getting worse, more often and when it does drop in the gearbox now goes into limp mode (flashing green M & S lights on dash and flashing D). Turn engine off, start it again, and all is well. Gearbox drives otherwise as it should I think, only auto Disco 2 I have ever had, the gearbox is a bit lumpy and lazy in comparison to the super slick Disco 3 gearbox and my Saab 9-5 one but I assume that is correct as older technology. Fluid should be fine (I will check though) as the fluid was changed a couple of months back and no major leaks. Fluid was changed again a few weeks after as one of the cooler pipes blew. Anything else I could check? Battery is brand new as I have seen that as a cause in some other threads. At a bit of a loss really, so any help much appreciated.

The below information from the workshop manual, and after asking on the disco3.co.uk forum, the link to the information too.. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/SDS002_V8_cylinder_numbering.pdf First two images from the workshop manual seem conclusive, then the info in the link just muddies the water!!

Hi all, Does anybody know the cylinder number arrangement on these 4.4 AJv8 engines (NOT BMW)? I thought they were numbered from front to rear on the left (as facing the front of the car) 1 to 4, with 1 nearest you (the front), and 5 to 8 on the right hand side. However after doing a compression test (suspected misfire) this does not correlate. I have a fault code for misfire on cylinder 7, but the pressures on that cylinder seem fine. The pressure on what I would call cylinder 4 (i.e. on left bank, nearest the bulk head (furthest from the front)) is much lower. Using the more conventional numbering system, i.e. 1, 3, 5 & 7 on the left, starting from the front as viewed from the front of the car, would seem to work!! Help! Cheers Phil

Ally V8 - thanks!!! That is the information I have been after! After a quick Google, the info on this link explains it all very well indeed - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/AFR_sensor putting my scanner back on the car, I can clearly see that the upstream sensors are shown under EQ_RAT and should have a value of 1. I will do a test drive when possible and see what is going on. Also need to look at BARO readings as well. Hi missingsid, yes have been on Disco3.co.uk, the have not been able to give me the seemingly simple information which Ally V8 did above. I am holding out hope it might be a combination of a faulty O2 sensor and an air leak downstream of the MAF, but will be getting my compression testing kit ready nonetheless!

Hi all, Hoping someone can help. I have just bought a D3 4.4 v8 and runs well except for a lumpy idle. I have used my generic OBD2 scanner to check live data, and can see voltage for the post cat sensors, but not for the pre cat ones. The post cat sensors are reading 0.8v continually so it would lead me to believe that the engine is running rich. I cannot see the voltage for the pre cat ones, but I can see their amp draw. Is this correct, am I missing something? Any help much appreciated. Phil

Thanks Shackleton. Today I dropped the pipe off with a hydraulic specialist who seemed happy to help and is contacting me in the morning if it has all worked He quoted £30 for the one, quite happy as haven't the time to sort myself, and that is a 70% saving on the new part! I did find this on eBay which I think would do the job, with the two jubilee clip approach at either end. Thought I would post this in case anyone else has a similar issue. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271965623061?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I will update once the final resolution has been decided.

Thanks!! I have done various searches and it seems the UBP101140 have been superseded by UBP101141. I have (I think) found this part on John Craddock, brit-car and RimmerBros sites, all for around £100 inc VAT. However after a bit more digging I found the link below, anyone used this company Myton automotive? http://www.mytonautomotive.com/product_details/Pipe/0/347483/?make=&model= I have never heard of them, and the price seems to be £34!!! It does say after market, but no idea if the others available are any different! Annoyingly Myton automotive do not seem to have the UBP100990 online. I have contacted them to see if they have it, but interested to hear any feedback in the meantime! Thanks for the good suggestion, might be the option, but keen to replace with a similar part first. Might be considerably less expensive though!!

No such luck. Split in the rubber pipe on the drivers side. Looking for a new complete pipe, will be changing the passenger side on too as heard that is the more common one (on the TD5 any way!)

Morning all, urgent help please. So spectacular chaos caused on the A64 from York to Leeds last week, billowing smoke and rolling road recovery by the police when my D2 died at 70mph in lane 2. Turns out all the fuss was over the oil cooler pipe from autobox which had split at the rubber at the very front squirting ATF EVERYWHERE! Issue now is I cannot find a replacement pipe. I can fine them for the TD5 and the 300Tdi and the Disco 1 v8, but nothing for the Disco 2 v8. Any assistance?? I am guessing the best fit might be the Disco 1 v8 as the routing is more likely to be different on the TD5 or 300Tdi. Tried all the normal online places I know of Paddocks, John Craddock, Island 4x4 etc. Local specialists Adventure 4x4, Farnells and FourPlus4 but nothing. Help please!! Phil

Update...regass done, air con blew nice and cold, went to move the vehicle and one of the guys noticed the gas was pouring out of the front of the car, quick investigation and the pipe going through the slam panel has failed in the normal way so major leak!! Guy was purplexed as the "computer" said it passed the vacuum test. Tried explaining to him about the difference between a vacuum and pressure test, and the reason why the car had "passed" unfortunately I think I just blew his brain!! Anyway, pressure switch doing it's job perfectly so thread finished!!

2003 Discovery 2 v8 Strange one I think this, I have done a search and cannot find anything which seems to relate to it, but describing is tricky. Last night, whilst I was having a look at the cooling fan wiring, I heard a quiet repeating electrical noise. Traced it to the ABS pump, confirmed by disconnecting the wires and the noise stopped, reconnected came back straight away. To confirm, the vehicle was not running and had not been used since Sunday (3 days). Is this normal? I have no ABS issues and brake fluid is okay. Next thing is I had a flat battery on Sunday morning. Didn't think much of it as hadn't used the car for a week or so and don't know how strong the battery is. Drove the car approximately 30 miles on Sunday, no more starting issues and I would assume enough to recharge the battery. This morning, 3 days later, flat battery again. This has only just started happening so wondering if the two are connected? Any help much appreciated

Thanks for the assistance chaps. I did as suggested and jumped the pressure switch for about 5 mins, nothing but warm air in the car, compressor was running. Now sat in Kwik Fit getting it regassed.I know it might not be everyone's choice for air con, but they don't charge if they can't do it and no other air con people I have found do that!! I will update once I have driven of whether it is nice and cold or still horrible and warm!!