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Litch last won the day on September 2

Litch had the most liked content!

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About Litch

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    Old Hand

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    East of England

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  1. Don't forget that you have to drill the chassis for the brake-pipe & fuel-line clips. Certainly with the brake-lines it is easier to bend the pipes and then drill the hole where it is required rather than trying to bend the pipe to fit the clips (I used an Automech kit & brake-pipe bending tool, makes a neat job). When you have drilled the holes you want to etch prime, paint & treat before fitting the clips so it is easier to bend the pipes & dry-fit them before painting the chassis.
  2. Certainly I had no problems when my bulkhead was galvanised. I braced it across the bottom with a length of box-section steel and I drilled holes in all the hollow sections and it came back just fine. Yes there was some rippling to the flat sections but these were insignificant and completely invisible when built up. The bonnet hinges gave no problems, it was just the flap hinges that needed to have the excess galv removed. Everything lined up correctly, rivnuts / studs either had the protective bolts / nuts removed or if necessary had a tap run through them and as I had taken time to rec
  3. Did you not T-Wash the chassis first, I think you were originally against the idea saying you were going to leave it bare but as you are now priming it obviously you must be painting it after all? I used Frosts Etch Primer (spray & brush) after T-Washing, left for at least 24Hrs before applying the top coat I found it totally resistant to scratches or chipping. Paint finish was done with Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (Satin), lovely finish and it seemed almost a pity to then cover it with Black Waxoyl! And yes, degreasing is very important. I know when I started to use the T-Wash
  4. As an addition, it is ironic that I don't even use this bracket or the one on the central crossmember as my Demand Eng SS system is only supported in two locations, adj the gearbox crossmember and on the rear crossmember.
  5. This is a photo of my new Richards chassis (the day it was delivered and before it was prepped & painted). It is a 300TDi so in several ways will be different to your 200TDi chassis but with the exhaust system you have I would say you definitely need this bracket. Had it been welded onto your old chassis as I am fairly certain that my old 2.5NA D did not have one in this location either?
  6. I fitted a full set of black MKPerformance silicone hoses to my 300TDi back in 2015, they are (were?) just down the road from and I watched him making some of them. Last year I had to have a few of them replaced under warranty as they were leaking in multiple places (like a series of pin holes had appeared) and so far the replacements have been ok, he took the old ones back for pressure testing but I never heard anything back from him. Not certain if he is still trading, I don't normally go past his workshop so have no reason to just pop in. Would I spend all that money again? Certai
  7. "So you’ve positioned the selector above the centre seat location and the transfer lever in the tunnel? Do you have any more photos of the centre console installation before seats etc were fitted?" The transfer lever is in the standard location (new mounting included in kit) and the shifter is determined by the console but it all falls nicely to hand. Found an old photo of the console without the seat. "What sort of mpg do you get, Litch?" Definitely dropped off since the conversion but still not too bad. Luckily I always calculate my fuel consumption every time I fill up regard
  8. Just noticed you are not very far from me. Feel free to PM me if you wanted a test-drive to see how it feels.
  9. Can only comment on the 300TDi auto as that is what I have, carried out the conversion in 2016 so has been on for 4-years and I love it. Yes, the 300TDi & 4HP22 is the same length as the 300TDi & R380 so it is an (almost) straight swop. I used an Ashcroft kit so there was no searching for parts or refurbishment necessary. That said, the kit comes with flexible pipes to the oil-cooler whereas I preferred to use Disco solid pipes from the gearbox all the way forwards to the front crossmember and then had them modified by Pirtek to mate to the transmission oil-cooler. If you look my
  10. Personally I have never used genuine Polybush (a brand name which people often use as a general description for all polyurethane bushes - used like Hoover, Biro, Jeep! etc etc) but have fitted a couple of other brands to my 90 over the past 21yrs. OE. Good performance & long lasting but yes they can be awkward to remove / fit but then again I have never had to use a press or resort to burning etc. Bearmach Blue polyurethane. Very hard and as all bushes are single piece they were actually quite awkward to fit as they would suddenly slip out of position as they were being pressed
  11. Did my Richards chassis just a couple of months ago. Yes it can catch on the internal strengthening webs and even worse, can run along the bottom of the chassis so the draw-wire runs under the web but the gap is too small for the harness so you have to pull the draw-wire out and start over again. In the end I found the trick and did it in 5-minutes flat (see below). Copied and pasted from my rebuild thread on another forum, also included a bit about grommets for the cable holes:- Chassis wiring holes (Richards Chassis).The LR chassis has just four of the large cable holes (two o
  12. Think it is just a change of spec over the years. I junked my old rubber seal and replaced it with the foam-rubber type but it wasn't very effective so a couple of years later I recovered the old one (luckily it had only been banished to the deepest recesses of the shed) and refitted that instead.
  13. Just completed the chassis rebuild on my 300TDi 90, covered as it happened on Landyzone. I degreased the chassis, T-Wash, etch primer, Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (satin) and finally a coting of black Waxoyl. Didn't notice any damage to the concrete driveway after using the T-Wash but then again I did wash it thoroughly afterwards. By the way, the black marks on the wall are NOT overspray but exhaust soot as a result of parking the vehicle in exactly the same spot for the past 20-years!
  14. My 90 soft-top is bare metal inside (owned 21yrs) as were my 101FC & S3 SWB V8. In short, my 30+ years of LR ownership have always been without soundproofing or carpets and I wouldn't have it any other way. Noise is not a problem (although a hardtop may drum a little) and neither is rust / corrosion as there is nowhere for moisture to get trapped. When it is time to clean it out then a hose and a brush is all that is required. Of course condensation may be a problem on a hardtop but do you have cold winters over there?
  15. Unfortunately not as they are a different design. The Series wings have a rear section whereas the 90 wings have no rear but instead join up to the steel inner wing, also the cutout is larger to allow for the flexible eyebrow. The truck-cab will not fit the 90 windscreen as the later screen is taller, the only way to do this is to fit the Series windscreen as well (they are the same width).
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