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Litch

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Litch last won the day on March 31

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About Litch

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    East of England

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  1. Yes, I just kept removing it to bend the tube gently (careful you don't flatten it) and when I was happy with the location, bolted it into place.
  2. Here you go, Defender 300TDi with Ashcroft auto conversion. As I recall I had to gently tweek the dipstick tube but it fits beside the standard airbox perfectly.
  3. Yes, I use Black Waxoyl on exterior surfaces (funnily enough I touched up my crossmember only yesterday).
  4. Possibly made for / by Otokar? A big name in Land Rover manufacturing / refurbishment and a Turkish company.
  5. Here is my 300TDi re-power kit prior to fitting, fresh out of the factory crate (LR Genuine Parts).
  6. Believe me, removing the heater is no problem whatsoever and as long as you are prepared then you can have it out, refurbished and back in situ in a day (as long as you have bought all the parts you need beforehand). If not then take it out, connect the hoses together (to complete the coolant circuit) and then drive it around until you get all the bits. The biggest problem you will find is seized fixings (nothing new there), holding a spanner on one side of the bulkhead while working under the bonnet and finally, hard & crumbling seals. Prepare by using anti-seize on the fixings beforehand and all should be ok, if not just cut them off. When you fit new make sure you grease the fixings to prevent it happening again. Where the heater bolts through the top of the footwell if can be awkward getting (and holding) a spanner in place while you are working under the bonnet, if you have an extra pair of hands no problem but if (like me) you work alone then I found that the spanner will jam up ok but to prevent it falling use a short length of duct-tape to stick it into place. The rubber seals WILL be shot, you can make up your own but far easier just to buy replacements. Other problems could be corroded heater-box, shot matrix or even rust on the top of the footwell (you will only see that with the heater removed) but you will have to decide how to tackle them if / when you come upon them. Several years ago I replaced the motor on my heater and later replaced the matrix, both easy jobs that took very little time to complete. More recently I had my bulkhead galvanised and while I was assembling all the necessary parts in readiness I discovered brand-new LR Genuine Parts heaters for sale for £100+VAT. Seemed too good an offer to turn down so I sold my old heater (old heaters in good condition can fetch a premium) and fitted the new one. My old one was the early type (downward facing pipes) but the new one was TDi / TD5 which was an added bonus. Bulkhead with heater removed. Old heater ready for sale. New heater in place. New heater in place.
  7. Any reason you have discounted the Raptor console?
  8. I rebuilt my 90 with a brand-new body back in 2001 and used SS fixings throughout however I always assemble fixings with either Waxoyl or Copperslip (depends on the location), one thing I NEVER do is assemble dry. My body is now showing signs of corrosion but this is NOT around the fixings but instead along normal locations like the door bottoms, wheel arches etc (only doors and rear tub however as the front wings & bonnet remain perfect) so I think it is safe to say that the use of SS fixings has had no effect over the past 18-years. Rear tub is coming off this summer and being stripped & re-painted whereas the doors are being replaced with galvanised ones.
  9. I don't believe it is high pressure. If you look at my photo you can see the hose-clip jointing the (shortened) flexi to the coupling. The flexible hose & fixings supplied by Ashcroft were very high quality, I was surprised at the amount of refund I received when I took them back. The only other item I didn't use was the foot-rest, I decided that I liked the additional space to move my left foot on a long journey, I did however fit the larger brake-pedal, not because I really need it but because it just looks right (vanity I suppose).
  10. If you mount the cooler where I have mounted mine then yes the standard Disco pipes are too long but I preferred to start with them as that way I know that fitting them into the autobox and running them forward was going to be exactly the same as on a Disco. The flexi pipes need to be shortened and one of the solid pipes "adjusted" under the cooler (if you look at my photo you can see where the NS solid pipe has been sleeved in two places).
  11. As a matter of interest, what are you doing about the autobox oil-cooler? The Ashcroft kit comes with the standard oil-cooler but a length of flexible hose & fixings. I wasn't keen on this set-up so instead decided to use standard Disco pipes but modified where they cross the front crossmember, the end result being very acceptable to my eyes. I did briefly look at using a Wolf oil-cooler which is mounted on the slam-panel diagonal supports but didn't get any further than idle doodling some sketches, I still like the idea but have yet to look into suitability, pipe connections and whether mounting the cooler that bit higher will work.
  12. Sorry, didn't realise I had posted a photo showing the lights! Yes, Le Perei LED, fitted them about 6-years ago to replace the full set of eight Le Perei filament NAS type lights that I fitted back in 2000. The LED's are very good, people can certainly see you and the power of the reversing lights on a dark wet night is to behold. Used to have the filament type the front as well and really liked the look (plus the lights are very effective) but had a makeover a couple of years ago and went to standard type LED's.
  13. Turns out that I haven't any pictures of the kickdown cable (pump end) that I took at the time, found these photos though which some kind soul sent me showing how the brackets fit.
  14. Now I have worked out where the sensor is located on the bellhousing I can confirm that mine is just fitted with a small blanking plate. Below are some photos showing how the kickdown cable connects to the pump.
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