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Litch

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Litch last won the day on March 31

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About Litch

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    East of England

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  1. He is based just a couple of miles from me and I have used him a lot over the past few years. I know he is normally very busy and has a young family so maybe he is just not keeping on top of his messages?
  2. Fitted my SP4x4 galv front doors last weekend (will post a couple of photos sometime). I have posted elsewhere the horrors of the purchase from SP4x4 and it is not for faint hearted! Expect nil customer service and the return / replacement of at least part of your order as it will either be wrong, poorly packaged or just plain damaged on arrival. 😬 When I (finally) had a pair of doors that looked like they were up to the job it was "just" a case of prepping them (drilling & tapping the holes etc) and sending them off to the spray shop. I know they had their work cut out as there was a lot of excess galv to be cleaned off and also where the skins had been folded over the frame it was very uneven meaning extra prep was required to give a good final finish. The painted doors (which by then looked lovely) sat in my garage for a couple of months but last weekend was when I decided I really ought to get them fitted (to release a bit of space if nothing else). The only new parts I needed were sound deadening pads and window channel (I had already bought the later inner door panels from JC). The pads were Dead Mat from Van Lining Trim UK (off Ebay), very reasonable price and look to be a lovely product which was easy to apply (used a seam roller to ensure 100% adhesion). The channel unfortunately came from SP4x4 as although I had vowed never to use them again they were the most cost effective but they were up to their usual standard with the packaging looking like it had been done using all the remnants from the warehouse floor and some of the aluminium strips & channel bent like a banana (packaged like this as the box was un-bent)! The new inner panels were purely to save me having to use the old panels and adapting them to fit the new fixing layout, the finished result is definitely better looking (even if it is hidden behind the door-trim). New plastic trim clips etc were either bought new or re-used as necessary. Fitting the doors was straight forward, they fit ok even allowing for the fact that bulkhead alignment was done for the original doors, I will adjust the bulkhead, door surrounds etc next spring when I rebuild on a new chassis but I don't anticipate any issues. They are heavier than original so this time I hung the doors first and built them up while on the vehicle whereas last time (19-years ago) I built them up while laying flat on the floor, no doubt I will notice the weight when I remove the doors next spring! 😕 SP4x4. Don't expect good customer service or that the product you will receive will be "good to go" straight out of the box so give yourself plenty of time to allow for returns etc. Inspect thoroughly the moment you receive them and do a trial fit to ensure there are no major issues, when happy you can concentrate on the smaller tasks to get them ready for painting. My reasoning for buying these doors was that when eventually fitted, any pain will be forgotten and they will last the life of the vehicle. 😀
  3. Windscreen is different so the windscreen rail (hooks on a Series but clamp in a 90/110) will not fit and the profile of the galvanised frames above the doors is different (curved on the 90/110). At the end of the day, you will have to find the correct fittings for your 90 but these are widely available new & secondhand so as long as you can get them shipped then you shouldn't have a problem obtaining them.
  4. A crossmember like that and you're worried about the reverse switch / wiring supporting a 55W halogen? 😲 I think you will find that a 55W reversing light is illegal on the highway and will fail the MOT (add to the list along with the crossmember....). For short periods of time you will "probably" get away with it but as the switch / wiring will be drawing over twice the current it is designed for, even if the fuse doesn't pop (don't know the rating on a TD5), the wiring may well induce voltage drop and you can expect problems ahead. Why use an old halogen like that anyway? Road legal LED reverse lights will give out a far better spread of light while passing the MOT and not requiring any wiring / switch upgrades. 😁 If you want a rear work-light then once again, use a decent LED, mount it at a level to give a better spread of light and wire it in correctly from a suitable source.
  5. What is the width of your current steel wheels, are they wide enough for those tyres? The tyres will fit Sawtooth alloys (265/75x16 was a standard LR fitment for several years) but there is no need to change the wheels JUST stop them rubbing, a simple adjustment of the steering stops is all that is required.
  6. As stated:- " the penalty for which is a lifetime of humiliation and distain from your peers. "
  7. This is the INSIDE of my Cooper ST Maxx, never even removed the protective coating from the white lettering let alone let it be on show. Side by side with the new BFG AT KO bought to replace the ST Maxx, don't have a side on but once again you can see it was to be on the INSIDE.
  8. And don't forget, it is actually illegal to have the white lettering on show, the penalty for which is a lifetime of humiliation and distain from your peers. 😉 Go black, you know it makes sense!
  9. Wedge at Sawtry have done many LR parts for me over the years (including my bulkhead), shame they are refusing certain parts but then again they are a major operator and doing small parts is probably more trouble than it is worth.
  10. Yes, I just kept removing it to bend the tube gently (careful you don't flatten it) and when I was happy with the location, bolted it into place.
  11. Here you go, Defender 300TDi with Ashcroft auto conversion. As I recall I had to gently tweek the dipstick tube but it fits beside the standard airbox perfectly.
  12. Yes, I use Black Waxoyl on exterior surfaces (funnily enough I touched up my crossmember only yesterday).
  13. Possibly made for / by Otokar? A big name in Land Rover manufacturing / refurbishment and a Turkish company.
  14. Here is my 300TDi re-power kit prior to fitting, fresh out of the factory crate (LR Genuine Parts).
  15. Believe me, removing the heater is no problem whatsoever and as long as you are prepared then you can have it out, refurbished and back in situ in a day (as long as you have bought all the parts you need beforehand). If not then take it out, connect the hoses together (to complete the coolant circuit) and then drive it around until you get all the bits. The biggest problem you will find is seized fixings (nothing new there), holding a spanner on one side of the bulkhead while working under the bonnet and finally, hard & crumbling seals. Prepare by using anti-seize on the fixings beforehand and all should be ok, if not just cut them off. When you fit new make sure you grease the fixings to prevent it happening again. Where the heater bolts through the top of the footwell if can be awkward getting (and holding) a spanner in place while you are working under the bonnet, if you have an extra pair of hands no problem but if (like me) you work alone then I found that the spanner will jam up ok but to prevent it falling use a short length of duct-tape to stick it into place. The rubber seals WILL be shot, you can make up your own but far easier just to buy replacements. Other problems could be corroded heater-box, shot matrix or even rust on the top of the footwell (you will only see that with the heater removed) but you will have to decide how to tackle them if / when you come upon them. Several years ago I replaced the motor on my heater and later replaced the matrix, both easy jobs that took very little time to complete. More recently I had my bulkhead galvanised and while I was assembling all the necessary parts in readiness I discovered brand-new LR Genuine Parts heaters for sale for £100+VAT. Seemed too good an offer to turn down so I sold my old heater (old heaters in good condition can fetch a premium) and fitted the new one. My old one was the early type (downward facing pipes) but the new one was TDi / TD5 which was an added bonus. Bulkhead with heater removed. Old heater ready for sale. New heater in place. New heater in place.
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