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Litch

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Litch last won the day on September 2 2020

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  1. Bought three BP rear silencers for my 300TDi and each one lasted 5-years, the first one was stamped BOSAL (a well know manufacturer) but the next two just had a BP sticker but lasted the same length of time. When I fitted my galv chassis I treated myself to a Demand Engineering SS Sport system, top quality and although it was much more expensive I feel it was completely worth it. If ordering mild steel just remember there are two different part numbers but the only difference (I am aware of) is the hanger nearest the tail. ESR2382 & ESR3463 although I see that some manufacturers are getting around this by fitting two hangers (RH & LH) so you can just use the one for your model.
  2. Well you've got me there, I could have sworn my SuperPro ones were 2-piece! That said, I did fit them a few years ago (2017) so maybe my memory is playing tricks on me? 🥴 I have a photo of the finished job but not of the actual fitting. All I know is that all my bushes have been fitted using my (huge) vice and after the nightmare of fitting some 1-piece Bearmach bushes some 20-years ago, the SuperPro ones were a breeze.
  3. I found with the 1-piece bushes they need to be well lubricated and pressed into place dead straight otherwise they can deform and pop out, also I used a large flat washer on the open end as it covered the entire surface of the bush. That said, they were awkward and it is for that reason I later went for SuperPro which are 2-piece and are a breeze to fit (perhaps not what you wanted to hear).
  4. Sounds very much like you have a Disco transfer-box fitted and from personal experience, that is too high for an auto Def. Is it a 300TDi and was it a lift & shift from a Disco? 20-Years ago (2003) I bought a brand-new LRGP 300TDi/R380 re-power kit for my 90 and from day-one it was fitted with the Disco transfer-box. It was a perfect combination, pulling strongly and allowed relaxed cruising on the motorway (70mph with ease) while on A & B roads it was never necessary to get out of 4th. Always been fitted with the (then) standard 265/75x16's. Move on a few years (2016) and I fitted an Ashcroft auto conversion but while I wasn't certain if it was going to work, I decided to keep the Disco transfer-box (initially at least). In short, it didn't work. On A & B roads where 50mph was the norm it wouldn't lock-up and on the motorway it was running out of puff at 75mph and slowing down on inclines. I lived with it for 12-months and then swopped for a Def transfer-box (also from Ashcroft) and it transformed the driving experience. It now lock-up at 50mph making it much nicer on A & B roads while on the motorway it pulls much stronger (will hold 70mph all day) and doesn't struggle with hills any more. You say you think the box is Ashcroft, what makes you think that, do you have any documentation? If an Ashcroft kit it will (usually) be well finished whereas a lift & shift usually means the shifter being dropped in a fabricated console of some kind.
  5. As above, I fitted a Richards chassis back in 2020 and there were no brake-pipe holes (or for the fuel-lines as I recall). Easy enough to sort. Just drill the holes where you want them to be (which may not be where they were on the original chassis), clean & paint then rust-proof.
  6. Automec do a full kit if you can't be bothered with making your own. Used one a couple of years ago when I did my chassis replacement, first rate.
  7. When I did the Defender factory tour I only witnessed them stamping the chassis at one point (the OSF chassis leg) as it had always been done, it was a fantastic machine but quite noisy and took longer than you might expect. As far as I could see there was no way it was going to fit anywhere else on the chassis and I didn't see them do it elsewhere, just move onto the next vehicle. There are serial numbers on the axles etc but I think they are entirely separate to the chassis number.
  8. I’m getting new chassis from Richard chassis soon 3 to 6 month wait do me nicely as winter should be over win win 😊 That's what I did. Ordered from Richard's in September and got a delivery date of my choice which was mid March ready for an April 1st SORN and project start. Having the chassis for a couple of weeks beforehand meant I could prep, paint & Waxoyl it ready. Really mild Spring that year (2020) so I made good progress early on.
  9. I can fully understand the desire to paint the bulkhead, if for no other reason it keeps the vehicle looking completely standard. That said, I left mine bare and there isn't a huge amount showing. Of course it doesn't look anything like standard but it was a deliberate decision on my part.
  10. I have had my 90 on an agreed value policy for 20-years or so. I oversubmit on the details and include more photos than requested plus my (extensive) list of work, copies of receipts etc. I don't notice it being any more expensive than a "normal" policy, this year it was £195 +£15 for the AV certification with 5K miles PA. AV is £20K.
  11. I had this on my 300TDi about 4-years ago and it was down to doggy fuel. Had filled up at a Tesco filling station in Stoke On Trent and on the way home to Bedfordshire the engine cut out stone dead on several occasions (no spluttering, it was like I had flicked a switch) however each time it re-started after I had pulled over or even before I had coasted to a halt. This un-nerved me and next day I set about checking all connections but found nothing. I filled up a few days later and over the course of the next week it did it again but only a couple of times. Before heading up the motorway again I refilled (second fill-up since SOT Tesco) and it only did it once on that journey but after another fill up it never did it again. All I know is that I never used that Tesco filling station again (it was a pain to get in & out of anyway).
  12. Might be worth giving Cannon Services a try (manufacturers of the Defender Peak - external sunvisor)? I have just moved back to Banbury after a break of 31yrs and I have to admit that I do 100% of servicing / repairs myself but if I needed anything doing in the future they are top of my list to try. If you were asking 35-years ago I would have recommended Dave Pickles (now of Paintman fame) as back then he was running a very useful workshop out of an old barn in Duns Tew, did a lot of work for me at the time. 😁
  13. This is my easy / surefire way of removing old bushes, the below photo is of the A-Frame but the principle applies to them all. Cut through the rubber with a holesaw, cut the outer sleeve with a hacksaw and then knock the sleeve loose. Simple job that should only take 10-minutes.
  14. Yes, engine in. It was done in a day, just remove the old axle and roll the new one into place.
  15. These are some old photos of when I replaced my front axle for a nice new one (NOS crated). A pair of axle-stands supporting the chassis and it was fine.
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