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Litch last won the day on September 2 2020

Litch had the most liked content!

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About Litch

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    Old Hand

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  1. "I don’t understand why people put so much time and effort ( on a 90, 110 is a bit more involved ) into not breaking the body down to man portable size pieces at the start of the re-chassis process. The improved access to axles, engine etc must save time in the long run. Then there is the inevitable remedial work on seatbox, battery box etc which is easier when it is in pieces." I'm with you on that one. All those areas where panels are bolted together that are busy corroding away, at least separating them there is chance to carry out remedial action and halt the corrosion to prevent the
  2. I was always a great fan of Copper Grease but in recent years have moved across to Moly Grease as I have found it doesn't dry out like Copper Grease does. Also I work on the assumption that I will probably take it apart at some time in the future. When I did my chassis last year (seems strange to now be calling 2020 "last year" ) I used 2x500G tubs of Moly Grease and that doesn't include greasing the new TRE's, props etc or assembling large items such as axles that were simply rolled from one chassis to another.
  3. Are you using grease on all your fixings as you assemble? Makes me shudder when I watch videos of people fitting a new chassis etc and although they use new fixings they all go together dry.
  4. "With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/" I bought one of those kits when I did my chassis earlier this year but I wouldn't bother again. Normally I just cut isolating gaskets from a sheet of plastic and it has always worked very well but this time I thought I would use the YRM rubber ones for convenience. That they are pre-cut is great but after that they were no better as they don't stick to Waxo
  5. I have the NAS style console fitted so access to the rubber gaiter can only be achieved by removing it, sorry.
  6. It's the one supplied by Ashcroft, just the same as the normal one but without the moulding for the main gearstick.
  7. Why is the lever so far back, is it because it is straight from a Disco? Would fitting FRC8558 help? When I did mine it fitted the R380 tunnel perfectly and the correct rubber boot seals the hole (with the foam / rubber insert underneath), all supplied by Ashcroft.
  8. "it'll only be in the air for a few minutes" When the body is free of the chassis you may want to check / clean / treat the surfaces where the the body bolts to the chassis as that is the only time you get to see them, as soon as you fit the body to the new chassis they will be hidden again. I would not be surprised if you find some level of corrosion that will need to be rubbed down etc. When re-fitting use an isolator of some kind, in the past I have used thin sheets of plastic to act as a gasket but this time I bought the rubber gaskets from YRM (not certain I would bother again and wo
  9. I have some decent tie-down points on the floor of the rear tub and used them, could you remove the eyebrows and run a couple of straps underneath the tub? The load-lever made a whole world of difference, meant that I could set the angle of the tub / engine-transmission / bulkhead perfectly. Without a second pair of eyes / hands I needed to make sure it was all going to slot together correctly. Alignment is really just a case of adjustment and personally I would rather check all the mating surfaces & fixings with it apart rather than try to save a bit of time to swing it across in one
  10. This is how I moved across the rear body of my 90 earlier this year, all single handed and using only a 2-ton hoist (I bought the 2-ton hoist as it had slightly longer reach & height than the 1-ton version). Of course I appreciate that the 110 body is longer and the centre of balance may be more difficult to access, also mine is a soft-top which affects the weight / balance. Reading your post I take it you are trying to move the body across in one lump??? Personally I didn't even consider doing that as it is an excellent time to separate parts and tackle any problems that may be simme
  11. "I don't know if Britpart have altered the door seals they sell but I have had them in the past and they didn't resemble the genuine part in any way." As per my earlier reply, there is quite a lot about the new BP seals on-line and it certainly looks like they have changed the design. Bearing in mind they only cost about £10 each they resemble the genuine item and feel / act exactly the same way. Of course having only had mine fitted since earlier this year I can't tell whether they will last as long as genuine (18-years) but at a fraction of the price they could be replaced several time
  12. "an excessively hard or thick door seal (I’m looking at you, Britpart)" Not the case. They may have been thick & hard in the past but I researched this thoroughly earlier in the year and satisfied that they were as good as genuine I bought a pair and they lived up to expectations. Soft & flexible with air-holes and reinforcing where necessary they fit & seal well while allowing the door to close fully. Also they clip into place very well and are in no danger of coming loose, something my old ones were doing all to easily. I agree that my genuine ones had lasted well (I b
  13. Quite possibly you are correct and it is made of thinner steel? I have also removed the diagonal bracing bars to fit the autobox oilcooler but I have no problems with the strength of the slam panel on my 1986 model (I had it galvanised a few years ago and it came back perfectly straight / undistorted by the heat). Maybe source an earlier one?
  14. Years ago I bought a Double S SS system for my 300TDi and it went straight back, poorly made and was smaller CSA than the genuine system it replaced. Recently fitted a Demand Engineering SS system to my 300TDi, nicely made.
  15. "Classic Britpart strikes again!" Not the case. These gaitors have been around for many years (I bought a set 20-years ago after having a bad time with the leather ones) long before they were marketed / branded by BP (was it Bailcast?) and if I recall correctly they were exactly the same. Just because BP market something it doesn't mean that they design & manufacture it. My fitting instructions are long gone but did you check you could bond the gaitors before fitting the bolts?
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