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Darren Roberts

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About Darren Roberts

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Cambridge

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  1. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Ok will do. The T piece is the genuine one with the brass restrictor in it. I've got another new on so may try swapping those over......thanks again for the help. I'm also going to do a compression test as someone on another forum suggested that he cam could be knackered......
  2. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Ok update on this:- Still "hunting" when trying to set the base idle when warm. Revs fluctuate by 3-400 rpm in some cases, can't get it to idle smoothly until 700 rpm with the stepper motor isolated. I've checked for vacuum leaks - no joy with the brake cleaner trick. Vacuum gage plugged in at idle doesn't fluctutate. Check vacuum on cruise control feed, dizzy feed, rear of plenum to fuel regulator, crankcase breather on top of rocker cover. All with stepper valve isolated. Has ABS so no vacuum for brakes. Ignition strobed at 6 degrees BTDC with vacuum to dizzy isolated. So far its had:- New coil (Lucus) New rotor arm New dizzy cap (Lucas) New water temperature sender (Bearmach) New fuel temperature sender (Bearmach) New air flow meter from Ebay (not one of the usual makes - D & P)? New stepper valve with ptfe tape but no fibre washer. New hose between stepper motor and inlet manifold. New vacuum hose from top of plenum to dizzy. Plenum removed cleaned up and resealed. with gasket sealer when refitted. New leads less than 500 miles ago. New plugs less than 500 miles ago. I've gone back through this thread, couldn't find the pinned guide here but I did go through the British Atlantic guide on the web. I've now run out of ideas and now fed up with the digs from mates about it not running right. Everyone says stick carbs on it but the way I look at it it came out the factory working so using stock parts I should be able to get it back to working state without mods.....
  3. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    It came with a fibre washer so it's fitted with that. Its done up quite tight so probably no air leak but the plunger probably also won't be seated properly.....
  4. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    yep, 1992 with ABS.....I will drive it to get it warm and then see if I can blank all the hoses. There is also a vacuum supply for the now non functioning cruise, so I might disconnect that as well.....
  5. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Yep hose from back of plenum to fuel regulator there. Changed it to a new bit of pipe just in case there are any issues with it. New pipe is not squidgy like the one thats on there at the moment...
  6. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Hi Guys, Thanks for the words of support. I will read the troubleshooting guide tonight. Can't do anything now until the new fuel filter turns up later in the week. Temperature sensor (water is new), swapped old one bad, no different. ECU mate shows water and fuel temp. Can get the water up to 86 degrees, fuel to 30 degrees. Running green program so lambdas not used? If you go up about 5/6 posts there is a video of the ECU mate readout. Pretty sure the lambdas output hasn't changed since then. I will read the troubleshooting guide tonight - I've been relying on the ECU mate manual, and British Atlantic and some bits of RPI pages to date. All components are at leats Bearmarch of genuine LRO, the coil is Lucas. Hose from plenum to fuel rail? Not sure which one this is so I will check.....
  7. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Ok timing checked, "appears" to be ok. Really hard trying to check that even with aid of 14 year daughter, seems like the crank will move a fair distance whilst the piston is at top dead centre? Not clear whether the timing should be checked with the vacuum advance connected or not. Tried 6 degrees, 8 degrees, 10 degrees and 12 degrees. No noticeable difference. Torqued the plenum down way tighter than it should be, just in case there are leaks. **** out of ideas now and really contemplating getting rid of it, as it seems more hassle than it's worth.........any other ideas I should try before I either send it somewhere to be fixed or auction it on the bay of sins......
  8. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Hi Guys, Yes sorry forgot to mention, new stepper motor. On the timing side I checked tic was at point number 1 when I put the dizzy back in properly after it was put in 180 degrees out after the valley change, but I will go back and check that today as I didn't realise the timing marks could be so badly out.....
  9. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Today I reset the throttle pot as suggested by Joe1. I now have .32 volts and 6% on the ECU mate readout. Checked the timing at 6 degrees and took it for a run. It ran fine when cold, cam back after about 3-4 miles. Water temperature was 76 degrees, feel 30 degrees. When I pulled onto the drive it started to ticker roughly again. I tried setting base idle but the revs were jumping all over again. I swapped the MAF over, and gave it a couple of degrees more timing(now 8 degrees) but to no avail. I'm pretty confident that there is no air leak around the plenum chamber. So to recap it's had:- New rotor arm New coil New ignition amp New air hoses at the rear and front of the plenum. New temperature sensor. New leads New plugs last year (done about £1k miles if that). Replacement throttle pot (second hand but tested and gives the expected output on the ECUMate when the throttle is pressed and released. No faults showing on the ECU Mate tool. Swapping ECUs makes no difference. Swapping MAF's makes no difference. Runs lovely when cold, and hunts when warm. I'm sure the base idle will be a doodle to set once I can get it to ticker smoothly when warm. What else could cause it t hunt when warm? My next port of call was going to be new fuel filter and new fuel temperate sender.
  10. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Yep I may give that a try after resetting the timing again.....thanks
  11. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Would the tick over be erratic if the timing was out? I did time it up but wondering if the dizzy has moved?
  12. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Swapped the throttle pot today. At idle it's giving 0.14 volts so very similar to the other one that was fitted. Check the ECU Mate output and it looks like the voltage is increasing and decreasing uniformly with the throttle going down and back up, maxing out at 4.5 volts at full throttle. It goes to idle mode ok when not pressing the down on the throttle. Also just reading back on the thread, the valley gasket was changed due to a coolant leak, not air leak. It wasn't until I git the ECU mate that I realised that the TPS and Coolant Sensor weren't working properly due to the breakage on the common earth, and that it was still running a "with cats" fuel map, ah=n therefore running in limp home mode. The next step was changing the components out as mentioned above and ensuring that the dizzy was in the right way around... I'll have a another read of the documentation, the key thing I need to stop the tick-over from fluctuating when setting the base idle. .......
  13. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Hi Joe, Yes got rained off so maybe another go tomorrow with the suggestion re throttle pot. I didn't think there was any adjustment on these, I have another so I might swap it out and see if that gives different values. Today I out a vacuum gauge on the hose that normally fields the sphere which is the reserve vacuum for the cruise control (mine is disabled). On the vacuum gauge the readings constantly fluctuate. I think this is part of the problem to set base idle and 500rpm +/- 20 rpms is impossible as it's fluctuating by a couple of hundred rpm either way. I also pulled the top off the plenum today - no gasket? So I used some instant gasket to see if that made any difference but didn't appear to. Previously spraying brake cleaner everywhere didn't seem to affect the revs, but with it "hunting"it was hard to tell for sure. Yes the ECU mate sin't made anymore, cost my £80 second hand, and certify not parting with it any time soon! cheers D
  14. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Thanks Joe. Originally it was leaking from the rear of the block, so a mate changed the valley gasket for me. The breather t piece between the charcoal canister and the plenum was damaged, so replaced. Somewhere along the way the temp sensor plug and injector no1 got transposed, and eventually managed to sort that out. Then I invested in the ECU mate, and it showed errors on temp sensor and throttle pot - a broken earth was the root cause there, so sorted. The ECU mate also reported that it was running white program, the cats have been removed , so I did the resistor change. It no longer "sticks" as my wife kindly put it - as it was no longer running in limp home mode. But it still would have a very rough idea, so the rotor arm, leads, coil and dizzy amp where all changed (I usually go for Bearmach) and the dizzy put back as per factory because somewhere along the lines it had been moved 180 degrees out. Then the hose between the air control valve and the plenum was changed, and the air control valve itself. Its a lot better than it was but still "hunts" when warm. I'll try the vacuum gauge idea - thanks....
  15. Darren Roberts

    Another rough idea problem!

    Ok checked for leaks with brake cleaner, couldn't find any at all. Changed the ECU for another, reset the base idle a couple of days ago and ran rough when warm. Pull it out tonight and it ticked over really steadily. Turn it off to move the cars' nd it struggled to start without foot on the gas pedal. Anyway got it running, took for a test drive, ran until it was fully warm. Here's the ECUMate output https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0YwqOOC8svktNJm3MpC2i3jCg Does this give any more clues? cheers
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