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Darren Roberts

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About Darren Roberts

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  1. thanks. I looked in my paper parts manual and couldn't se them mentioned at all......hence checking with you guys....Best get a couple ordered.
  2. Range Rover Classic 1992 with ABS. Just replacing a swivel seal and I've noticed that the bolt that acts as the steering lock stop has bent. Should these axles have striker plates on them as per part number TAU100170? Or does the bolt head just hit the swivel flange, as I've noticed it's starting to damage that? thanks Darren
  3. Thanks. Yes I did. The irony is that the original coil (I think Bosch) and dizzy amp were ok, the new one was given to me so it just got swapped out as part of the elimination thing, and actually caused a bigger problem in the first place. Saving up some money, considering mega jolt now!
  4. Just to close this topic off, it went into the 4x4 Specialist, they found that the malfunctioning amp caused the coil to get fried. The amp was a new Lucas one....
  5. Sorry FridgeFreezer, getting confused..... I was going to go for the trigger wheel. with coil pack setup, leave the dizzy in for now just for the pump drive.....
  6. Nige, I'm not 100% sure what the difference is too be honest. I was looking at one of the trigger-wheels kits - my understanding is that the dizzy stays in to drive the oil pump, unless I replace it with the stumpy version. A mate has a kit for sale, so probably have that off him - not sure if its one of your kits but he's had a few bits off you in the past.....My engine is the 3.9 multi belt....1992 hard dash rangie....
  7. Thanks Bowie, so you reckon MegaJolt would be a good way to go to avoid these issue in future?
  8. Guys, The rough idle has been sorted by the 4x4 specialist. I was just asking everyone's opinion on whether or not to go MegaJolt or RPI ignition amp as an upgrade?
  9. Hi Bowie, I will check but I believe the 4x4 specialist has sorted all that, as they said they've got it running a lot better now. the only issue re the coil was that the Lucus replacement they put on it (hey supplied the original one that failed and very kindly replaced it under warranty) is that the new one was getting very hot as well. So I think the other issues to do with rough running has been sorted by them....
  10. Hi Guys, Follow on from last thread, took the truck out on New Years Day Laning and the coil fried itself. Anyway took it on the chin and had it recovered to the local 4x4 specialist I get my parts from to let them have a look. It turns out that the new Lucus coil and the new Lucas dizzy amp are both fried, so on with a new amp and a Bosch coil, plus they've set the base idle properly.... Anyway this now leads me to the next question, if the engine is running ok I'm considering going LPG, if not then I'll leave it as is for now. But on the ignition side I'm seriously considering either the RPI Ignition Amp upgrade or megajolt. RPI are about an our away from Cambridge where I'm based. Trigger-Wheels you do the megajolt kit just up the road in Ely. Obviously mega-jolt is about twice the price, I'm looking or a really easy DIY setup and currently not considering MegaSquirt, as it's just a landing vehicle I'm looking for decent MPG and reliability, rather than power. What would you go for? thanks Darren
  11. Ok will do. The T piece is the genuine one with the brass restrictor in it. I've got another new on so may try swapping those over......thanks again for the help. I'm also going to do a compression test as someone on another forum suggested that he cam could be knackered......
  12. Ok update on this:- Still "hunting" when trying to set the base idle when warm. Revs fluctuate by 3-400 rpm in some cases, can't get it to idle smoothly until 700 rpm with the stepper motor isolated. I've checked for vacuum leaks - no joy with the brake cleaner trick. Vacuum gage plugged in at idle doesn't fluctutate. Check vacuum on cruise control feed, dizzy feed, rear of plenum to fuel regulator, crankcase breather on top of rocker cover. All with stepper valve isolated. Has ABS so no vacuum for brakes. Ignition strobed at 6 degrees BTDC with vacuum to dizzy isolated. So far its had:- New coil (Lucus) New rotor arm New dizzy cap (Lucas) New water temperature sender (Bearmach) New fuel temperature sender (Bearmach) New air flow meter from Ebay (not one of the usual makes - D & P)? New stepper valve with ptfe tape but no fibre washer. New hose between stepper motor and inlet manifold. New vacuum hose from top of plenum to dizzy. Plenum removed cleaned up and resealed. with gasket sealer when refitted. New leads less than 500 miles ago. New plugs less than 500 miles ago. I've gone back through this thread, couldn't find the pinned guide here but I did go through the British Atlantic guide on the web. I've now run out of ideas and now fed up with the digs from mates about it not running right. Everyone says stick carbs on it but the way I look at it it came out the factory working so using stock parts I should be able to get it back to working state without mods.....
  13. It came with a fibre washer so it's fitted with that. Its done up quite tight so probably no air leak but the plunger probably also won't be seated properly.....
  14. yep, 1992 with ABS.....I will drive it to get it warm and then see if I can blank all the hoses. There is also a vacuum supply for the now non functioning cruise, so I might disconnect that as well.....
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