henry

Hi all I have had to replace the transferbox on my 1993 200TDi defender. I thought I sourced an identical LT230 box, however once the new transferbox was bolted on, props back on and oiled I realised that the square speedo cable is alot larger than the square hole at the back of the box. How can this be? Am I able to replace the cable with a new one that has the smaller square end, but will also fit the speedo? Or can I simply file the square end of the cable to fit the transferbox? Any Ideas, or details of a correct speedo cable will be greatly appreciated.

My exhaust has always been smokey for a couple of seconds on start-up, and recently the smoke has been blowing under the car and visible from the drivers side. I put this down to wind blowing the smoke. It turns out to be the end of the pipe had started to separate from the tail pipe silencer, and the exhaust is no longer supported until where the tail pipe attaches to the intermediate silencer. I used wire to support the silencer to get back home. I would very much like to keep the repair to a minimum, but will it be best to get a new tail pipe? or am I able to repair the exhaust? Car is a 110 200tdi. Many Thanks Henry

Thank you for the reply crwoody. Purchasing a new unit and repairing the broken one sounds like a good idea. While it is snowy and cold i don't want to order a new one, not at least i can be sure it would arrive in time. I have removed the alternator, and started to try do do some problem solving as to why it does not provide any voltage when running. The alternator is a lucas 127 55A unit. Using a multimeter the diode on the back of the unit does not have any continuity in either direction. Can it be this simple that this diode has failed? I would like to know please, if there are any ways to diagnose if the main diode pack has failed, or the alternator has burned out. H

It seems that every time I post on this forum it is about a part that I have broken. This time it is my alternator. While adding various electrical items to my land rover, something has happened to the alternator. It no longer charges the batteries. and when the engine is running the battery light is on in the dash, as it should be when the alternator does not provide any charge. Am I right that when an alternator spins and is not connected to a load it will fry itself? Fortunately it is connected to the battery as I have checked the continuity of the leads from the alternator to the starter motor and then to the battery. The voltage at all points is whatever voltage is left in the battery, and not the expected 13ish volts from a working alternator. Has the cold weather finished the alternator off, or is there anything i can do to recover it? The alternator is from a Defender 200TDi. Any advice or ideas would be very helpful to recover the alternator, however I am prepared to buy a new one if that is what it necessary. Many Thanks H

Thank you LandManLuke. I pushed it out from the other side. Bit of a pain to get out, but should be back together very soon. H

Hi All Having lost drive to my land rover I have discovered that I have a broken half shaft, the front drivers side. I have remove the half shaft and CV, but still have a large section of the half shaft still in the diff I suspect. I drained the diff oil hoping that the pieces would fall out, but they did not. What is the best way to remove the rest of the half shaft that is left in? I should also ask what do I need to purchase in the way of gaskets/seals and oil in order to put the assembly back together? H

Been out again to identify the problem. I put transfer box into neutral then jacked up right side and span the wheel. The front prop shaft started to spin, but then completely stopped. I then did exactly the same on the left side. The Prop shaft started to spin, more positively until I tried to change the direction. The prop then would not spin at all, forwards or reverse. Next I put the transfer box into gear so as to lock the prop shaft. I jacked up both sides to see if the movement of one wheel would go through the diff to the other wheel, but this did not work. I strongly suspect that this may be a diff problem, would you agree?

So it is not my assumed transfer box crisis. We have just been to investigate and the front prop is spinning. What is going to be the best order look at the next possibilities?

Just been to the car and it does move in High range with Diff lock on aswell as low range.

Last Night on the way home I completely lost drive, so I coasted to the side of the road and had a fiddle with the gears and Hi/Lo. The only combination that worked was to put the land rover into low ratio with diff lock on. I then limped home trying not to allow the rear wheels to spin to much. Is this definitely a case of a broken transfer box? I was recommended when I purchased the car at the beginning of the month that the transfer box should be replaced. If it is I need to source a new box very soon. I live in Portsmouth, and would greatly appreciate if any body knows the whereabouts of a replacement box that is close. The land rover is a 1993 200TDi 110 I hope my tale is not to vague for someone to help me diagnose the fault. Many Thanks Henry

I do hope that my title is not offensive to anybody. But im sure it was them. When I purchased by Land Rover It came with 5 almost brand new Insa -Turbo Sahara tyres. They had all been balanced, all be it with A LOT of weights. While I was removing my starter motor today I noticed one of my lead weights on the floor, only to find on closer inspection that all of the weights from the 2 wheels next to the pavement had been ripped off! Following the discovery I was quite unimpressed at how destructive some people are, and may have said a lot of bad words out loud. I then realised that I know nothing about tyres and balancing. Is it expensive to get them re balanced? is it bad to drive long distance unbalanced? Can people resell them for a fortune? H

Earlier I connected straight to the starter bypassing the solenoid with absolutely no results. I have just connected to the solenoid and used a 3rd Jump lead to trigger the solenoid. This time the gear fired out but there was no rotation from the motor. All I have done is use the solenoid to trigger the gear arm. So it is still the same problem really. H

Good Morning I have taken out the Starter Motor and tested straight to the battery and there was nothing except a little sparking from the -ve terminal when I attached the last jump lead. I think the motor has done something horrid to itself. The best thing to is replace rather than repair i expect. Im at University in Portsmouth, but I have a good spare at home in Norfolk, so I dont really want to have to buy an expensive replacement. Does anybody know of any cheap units good enough to get me home? Hopefully near Portsmouth. H

Thank you Western. It has started raining so im going to remove it tomorrow morning. I was hoping to be able to do something without removing it because last time I had to remove the downpipe. Its a bit annoying seeing that the motor is only 1 year old. Ha oh well.

So if solenoid is stuck can it be unstuck with a gentle hammer?