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rick111s

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Everything posted by rick111s

  1. Hi, I found that my local bearmachs were able to match any Internet price... Worth giving them a try if you have one local to you. Best of luck Rick.
  2. Hammo - would my standard 3.5 sound the same? Also if I bought a system (liking the system - loving the sound) could I use the standard manifolds or would I have to use only their manifolds?
  3. Hi all, Yet again thanks for all the comments. Mickyw - thanks for the offer but really wanted a new system to be honest. Fridgefreezer - a bit far from Kent but worth considering Hybrid - I remember your custom post. I emailed them last year and they were the company that quoted £1660 for the manifolds and system. Crazydave - ah that good to know. It is worth changing the manifolds? Will I feel or hear a benefit? Thanks again Rick
  4. thanks for the prompt reply. I've emailed an enquiry to the top link. td5 don't seem to offer any products for my v8 by the looks of it.. janspeed is going to cost a lot more and my opinion is that you are paying a premium for the name. Looking at there prices i would estimate a complete manifold and system to be close to a bespoke one where i can have more input. Could be wrong. anyone running a janspeed system for a 90 v8? if so would love to hear your views? thanks again Rick
  5. hi all, i'm sorry for yet another exhaust post but i'm confused over the options available and dont want to get it wrong. basically my factory v8 is running standard manifolds and an old stainless (double S?) system but this exhaust has seen far better days and has been blowing since i got the 90 almost two years ago. It did pass the mot last year but i was told that it wont pass this year. Having inspected the system i can see that it's basically blowing in various places on the main silencer and also around the rear smaller silencer so i dont see the point of trying to fix it. One of the main reasons for buying my 90 was for the v8 soundtrack which is great underload from the cabin but doesn't quite have the rumble on tickover or low revs i want. my 90 is just a weekend get dirty toy so putting a louder exhaust wont cause me issues but i dont really a straight through system to create a chav sound either. As the exhaust has been blowing for so long i'm not even sure that it was meant to sound like when sealed correctly. I dont also like the idea of buying a system then having to play around installing a cheery bomb or removing a silencer etc i would rather get it right and get it off the shelf. After searching on here and other sites and rulling out a custom exhaust (mainly due to being quoted £1660 all in last year for a complete system inc manifolds + fitting) i seem to have a couple of options and was really after some feedback please. 1. rimmerbros do a complete stainless sports exhaust system for just under £500 inc manifolds 2. keep the existing standard manifolds and buy another system from say double s again? any other recommendations? do you think either of these off the shelf systems will give me a better soundtrack? i know it's almost an impossible question as you guys can't hear my 90 with it's teabag system but i'm hoping that someone will reply having bought one and be able to let me know their thoughts etc. basically my 90 is a keeper and i plan to keep the engine standard but i would like to unlock the v8 rumble more without spending a fortune and i'm confused over having to change or not change the manifolds and what system to opt for. While searching some posts i found suggested fitting a system with no back pressure then posts replied saying it has to have back pressure especially as it's a v8. There was also a post a while back about someone breaking stainless manifolds a couple of times and being suggested to return to the standard cast ones which i have on mine hence my confusion... sorry for the long winded post - one day i will learn how to ask a question simply.. any feedback or advice would be great. cheers Rick
  6. I had the same problem so after advice i bought my connector from a local model shop. I was told it was off a servo lead. cost me £2.50 compared to my local bearmach that offered me a complete td5 loom for just under £100.00 i've not wired it in yet but the connector "seems" to fit correctly. my only concern is that the wires are very thin.
  7. Spot on. I could not think of how to explain it but you are right. It is the little things. I copied your aux fuse board install - worked a treat.
  8. Hi all, after about 4 months of research, buying bits when I can and working on my 90 for 2 hours only at the weekends and with the odd night after work my twin battery install "seems" to be working fine. I installed two battery state led's plus a voltmeter and all shows good. All went in well into my raptor dash. Not a mega upgrade I know but it's been a long time coming and I'm so happy It worked. Can't wait to carry on the electrical upgrades via my aux fuse board. odd what's gives you the sense of satisfaction but it a great feeling tonight. Thanks to all on here that have answered my stupid electrical posts.. Thanks rick.
  9. I would say it depends how attached you are to your 90. Many land rover owners I know enjoy and love their cars and the money aspect is often of secondary importance. I've no idea the cost of a new chassis but imagine the satisfaction of not only doing the chassis change yourself but also the fact that you've kept your 90 on the road for many more years to come which for me personnally is an important aspect of land rover ownership. I've spent over double what I paid for my 90 and it needs a new bulkhead next year I imagine but I love it. Wife and friends think I'm mad...
  10. Hi guys, thanks for the prompt reply. If the gauge wont really show me much difference then i dont really see the benefit of the extra hassle to wire them both in. Good point about the setup Simon, at the moment i've got a cut off switch fitted so i will need to think about how best to cut the power to the second battery. Can i wire both batteries through one battery cut off switch? I think to save cash i'll explore some angle options rather then a shiny tray.. thanks Rick.
  11. Hi All, sorry for yet another twin battery related thread but i could not really find exactly what i was looking for using the search facility so decided to post instead. I'm putting in twin batteries (with x-eng relay etc) and i've got a LR volt meter. In theory the gauge should show the same reading for both batteries (both new) but is there any benefit of having both batteries wired up to the 1 volt meter via a switch? 1 battery is to replace the main existing battery while the other one will run a new fuse board to power new circuits. Do both batteries receive a charge at the same time or it is a case of it charges the main then onto the second? Coming from modern vehicles i've found not really being able to know what going on to be a hard learning curve (been cault out with a flat battery over xmas)so i decided to add some gauges to help me see if something is not right before it goes wrong plus my 90 is often sat doing nothing for a couple of week at a time etc. My 90 was in poor shape (slowly getting better) so having a bit of a warning / info helps me. secondly what's the best / cost effective way of safety securing both batteries? Looking in this months various LR mag's there seems to be a new twin battery tray but at £40 + i'm not sure if there is a simplier way of doing it? thanks and apologies if the above has been covered but i could not find it. Rick
  12. Hi all, I bought a td5 clock from eBay but discovered that the lead is part of a loom which from bearmachs is about £100 they tell me. I discovered that the plug is the same as a remote controlled cars servo so got a plug and fly lead for £3! Does anyone know what connections correspond to which pins on the clock please? Thanks in advance rick
  13. Thank you. That's exactly what I need. Cheers, rick
  14. Hi all, can anyone please let me know the part number for the fixing part (which is riveted in place) what work with the wolf studs rrc3893 as sold with wolf head lamp grills please.. Thanks rick
  15. thanks. I'll gave a look at my alternator this week. I would hope that the3 rev range is suitable as my engine is standard and the gauges are described as being for a v8.
  16. I looked around on the net then spoke to my local bearmach and they matched the best price i could find. I was however buying 5 tyres and wheels. I dont think there is a lot in it when i was looking just before christmas. best of luck.
  17. Hi guys, so in theory if my v8's alternator's got a w terminal can I use the cheaper version? Thanks rick
  18. hi guys, thanks for the comments. will go hunting.
  19. I can fully understand both comments however I'm one of those people that want everything to match and cos everything else is genuine I would like them all to match. I'm hoping to find a used one or find a way of using the cheaper genuine one
  20. hi all, i recently managed to get via ebay a genuine 12v battery gauge and an oil temp gauge for my 90 so to finish off i want a genuine v8 rev counter gauge for my v8. my question is why is the upto 1998 gauge so much more to buy then the after 1998 ones...? what is the difference? My 90 is E reg so i would need the more expensive one (trust my luck) is there any way round having to use the upto 1998 one and pocket the difference Example links are here taken from devon (for ease) upto 1998 http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p13776c280/0/rev-counter-for-defender-vehicles.html after 1998 http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p1915c280/0/tachometer-for-tdi-/-v8-1998.html based on devon's prices there is approx £100 difference. Please note that i'm not saying devon are expensive as i know the prices are about the same with different suppliers just using there site as an example... thanks Rick
  21. djwillis -totally agree. I've got a raptor dash in mine and it suits the feel of my 90 much more then any of the others. However i would agree that in some it just wont look right. a descent signwriter will be able to wrap the sides of a raptor in a textured vinyl. each to their own and just my 2p.
  22. with the x-eng x-charge system do you need any other electrics as mentioned above? also i found this as a cheaper way on monitoring the batteries (not sure if it would register both or single battery states - http://lechi.com/miniE.htm
  23. I've not had chance to investigate this further yet but it's well worth me looking into the reverse issues first.. thanks yet again for all the positive posts. Rick
  24. great, thanks for that and thanks for the word of warning about the clamps. off to surf VWP i go...
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