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steffUK

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About steffUK

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    "Whatever"
  1. Sparco with Peltor earpiece works great and is comfy. Bluetooth worked great in Croatia even on 8 hour drives with lots of roadbook talk
  2. I will go again, great event. Organisation is top notch, briefing in English and good value for money. Steff
  3. This system is also running/build in Germany by www.omt-offroad.com Marc is a very helpfull chap and his english is excellent. you can e-mail him on info@omt-offroad.com Steff
  4. Plasma 12 from Andy. Using it for years now and never had a problem...
  5. Would this adapter from 13 pin to 7 pin work as well? I'm not sure if the "european" 13pin is the same as the military 13 pin? cheers stef Towsure: 13-pin to 7-pin Adapter E604 Adapter for towing a caravan wired with a single 13-pin Euro-style plug, with a vehicle fitted with UK spec 12N and 12S Sockets
  6. Hope that someone can help: Is the Goodyear G90 Studded 7.50R16C tire a tubeless ore tube tire. I'm looking at some which are fitted on Wolf rims but do not know if the rims are tubeless or not. Cheers Steff
  7. Like the idea of a database of stolen cars/parts. This reminds me to write down the serial number of the winches. If these would be public it might help that stolen parts can be resold here in the UK. However, nothing can be done if vehicles go outside the country. I still believe in making the car as unattractive as possible for a thief is the best defence. I used to park my 90ty in south London and I had fitted cut off switches for battery and fuel as well as a removable steering wheel. My hope was that the person I'm not that keen on would chose another car which is easier to move then mine... steff
  8. Did some more research and found a good physics page: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase...rmo/diesel.html If you go down the page you can play with the air ratio y and also the compression ratio rc and it will show the efficiency of the engine as well as the temperature. Increasing y from optimal 1.4 to 1.6 increases the temperature.
  9. When I was running my 300tdi we took it to a Bosch service station in Germany and spend 4 hours on a rolling road to set up turbo boost and fuel pump. I had an EGT fitted to monitor exhaust temperatures. When we were running it at the standard 0.9bar pressure but put up the fuel to black smoke level (so running a rich mixture) the engine started to run cooler, not hotter like you write in your post. When playing with the waste gate and getting the pressure up (I could get mine to 1.7bar) the EGT showed hotter tempratures. So more diesel cools down the EGT. We found that we got the best torque curve at 1.2 bar and the fuel pump turned to the stage just before black smoke. The same subject was also discussed here: http://fsae.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/125607348/m/56310846841 We also played with different exhaust systems from standard 300tdi to an open 2.5" pipe. Best performance was with the open system, I could not see a lot of impact on the EGT when we changed over but that is maybe due to not restricting the system enough to measure. stef
  10. A lot of the challenge boy's here stretch their 90ties to 100" to gain more stability. On steep downhills and uphill the extra 12" over the 88 will definitly be an advantage. Stef
  11. You can always take your tape measure and go to your friendly Chevy dealer / Unimog dealer and spend some time there. There are also so many different Unimog axles around.
  12. Just a few remarks: - If you love a set of drop boxes and keep rest LR try to get 2nd hand Maxi drive drop boxes... ah forgot, they were 10k as well! - "The ordinary LR nut, this is a LR forum...": one of the best and most read thread here was the build of Mouse, you agree, lot's of LR stuff in there - "would like a a bolt on axle upgrade": Spidertrax are bolt on for a LR through D&G but you pay for the quality. - "to compliment there existing suspension,shafts,arb's wheels and tyres. Be not much wider and a cost effective option": ok, that's Martin Luther King teritory... For many years my 90ty was my only car, daily driver and challenge truck. Did the Ultimate, Muddy Truckers, 3-Peaks, JBS events. Drove to and back from every event in my 90ty. All I had done to the axles was ARB's and the full Ashcroft treatment, i.e. CV and shafts and never had a problem despite running Super Swamper Q78 (true 36.5" tires) and having a heavy foot (ok, as heavy as you can get with a tuned 300tdi). So if you are looking for strong, reliable axles which are bolt on and re-use your LR suspension than keep your axles! One other point to consider: Most people upgrade their axles because they want to run larger tires. A "ashdcrofed" Defender or Disco II axle should be good (sensible driving asumed) for anything up to 35". With 36" or 37" you take a risk and larger is almost impossible because you need to modify the LR bulkhead/footwells/front outrigger to fit the tires. Or you move the axle forward. Ah and you need to go wider to have at least some steering lock, or change the trailing arms. So, why do we want a stronger LR based bolt on axle again?
  13. Marcus, I'm not saying that you need uprated axles on a daily driver (I don't...) and not everything is costed for a budget build. What I wanted to point out is that you can already buy the Spidertrax, while we have to wait for the new Ashcrofts and that the price will "hopefully" around the number you quote. Just have a look at the cost: TruHI9 35spline with ARB are $2500 +vat in the States, now you add axle casing (D2?), modification work on axle casing, knuckles, CV and shafts (Disco 2 Kit from Ashcroft = £900!), unit bearings, brake discs, caliper, flange kit... that's a lot of stuff for 6k.
  14. I have raced Ashcroft's shaft and CV's for years and (almost) never had a problem. More importantly the service I got from Dave is second to none and in my few that makes Ashcroft outstanding. The axles they are developing will definitely put some competition in the market. I went down the route of Spidertrax as in my few it is the strongest axle you can get and it is already a bolt on for LR. Have a look at Ced's and Hendrik's cars. Spidertrax are in use for years now and the axles are well developed and tested. There is no need to strengthen the axle housing or do any other modification as it was designed to be strong in the first place. If you crazy about portals then D&G offers you a LR bolt on Spidertrax axle with Unimog drop boxes. At least one car will race those next year here in the UK. If you want rear wheel steer, same can be done... With regard to the cost I can only say that you will get what you pay for. HI9 are not cheap nor are good 300M shafts or strong knuckles. Looking at the D&G website you can build up a complete set of axles for around £15k, that would include Hi9, ARBs, CTM U-joints, Willwood brakes, the whole lot. stef
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