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miketomcat

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Everything posted by miketomcat

  1. Hmmmm lancia stratos....i need a moment I'll be back shortly...... Mike
  2. Right tonight I have changed the vac pump again for a known second hand one whilst the original issue is still there (New servo me thinks) the brakes are back to how they were. The clattering is definitely a little quieter but still not right. I've cracked the injectors one by one but no difference. I think the noise is coming from the cam or cam pulley area I guess the timing chest will be coming off soon. Mike
  3. I think it' more top end than bottom but a good shout. Mike
  4. The story starts a way back. First we found on the third brake in quick succession the servo assistance had gone. After various checks I lifted the lid on the vacuum pump to find a well worn vain spindle so ordered a new one. In the mean time I noticed it getting clattery then noticed a leak from the bottom of the injection pump. New vac pump arrives and I fit it. Now I have no servo assistance at all the pump is drawing no vacuum at tick over and half of bugger all at elevated revs. So I assume this new one is knackered and noticed a slight miss fire on initial start up but it clears. Today I've changed the vacuum pump it seems to draw better but haven't driven it yet. I've also changed the injection pump but it's still clattery not quite as bad as it was I think but that maybe wish full thinking. The start up miss fire still seems to be there. Ideas and suggestions on cause of Clattering (yes I know it's a diesel and they clatter but this is more than normal). Mike
  5. Mine is stalled purely on financial grounds. It only needs a couple of weeks of evenings to be ready for the IVA but I can't afford to put it on the road at the moment. So it will have to sit there till I can. Mike
  6. Ross's surface rust is most definitely in the head..... Mike
  7. Thank you for the reply. I have replaced the alternator and yes duff diode is the conclusion I've been given by TSD. Mike
  8. The truck is a 110 with a disco 200tdi. This morning driving to work I smelt hot metal a quick check showed a hot alternator and the warning light came on and stayed on when the engine was shut down. If I start the engine the light goes out. I've disconnected the battery which has turned the warning light out. I had no problems yesterday. So do we think the alternator is toast or would a regulator pack(I have one) fix it. Mike
  9. Unless you 89 "defender" is a 110 then it has a Salisbury axle already so you either need a disc braked Salisbury from a 300tdi or early td5 110 or you can do a disc conversion. If your truck is a 90 then you need a rover axle from a 300tdi onwards 90 or a Discovery (300tdi disco have a different input flange but can be swapped) upto td5. Salisburys go from £400 up. Rover go from £50 for a ten spline and £100 up for a twenty four spline. I'd be looking at £500-600 Salisbury and £150-200 for a rover but if you don't know what your looking at take someone who does. Mike
  10. Lift pump is easy to check undo the bleed bolt on the fuel filter then pump the manual priming lever on the lift pump. If you get a good jet of fuel from the bleed hole the lift pump is fine. If it's weak then you may need to rotate the engine to get the pump to prime fully. But if that doesn't help then it's shot. (You may have some air the get rid of first). Mike
  11. As far as I know you can use either pink or blue just don't mix them what ever you do. If you mix them they turn to jelly. Mike
  12. You do need to take it out but it's only about 4 bolts and 2 cables. It takes about 10mins then you need to drill out the rivets open up the box change the matrix and put it all back together. I think it took me 2 hours all in and I've got a second one to do soon. Mike
  13. Have a chat with TSD he loves and hates his D3 it's a great car but repairing it costs a small fortune. The price range you are looking at you could have a good one but you may not. D2 problems are mainly chassis related. Mike
  14. I've put the clip back in using a bit of tube over the push rod to keep the clip pushed up against the ball. With a fair bit of buggering about you can get it all back together remove the tube then reassemble. Mike
  15. Personally I'd keep it but I've had to change a wheel due to a screw in the tyre this week. Mike
  16. Tsd might talk you out of a D3 given the repair bills he's had this year. Though he does say it's a great car. Mike
  17. How about a disco 2 that either has or need's a galvanised chassis. Mike
  18. My father in law loves his Isuzu i think its a rodeo. He even says it's better than the 4 hilux he had before. Mike
  19. I have to say I quite like that to as for length mo it's not what you have its what you can beat it into..... Mike
  20. Take the plate off the top of the pedal housing and check the two nuts on the push rod are tight on the top of the pedal. I had this come loose recently. Mike
  21. I have a td5 hand brake drum and cable and a disco 1 (200tdi) hand brake lever on the ibex. Mike
  22. I manage with a 10ton bench standing it's OK and I have limited space. A wider and 20ton one would be better. I like the bench standing because you can move it about and I like the idea of a movable ram. Mike
  23. If it's any help i had four rear arches on the tomcat and couldn't tell the difference when fitting. Mike
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