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miketomcat

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Everything posted by miketomcat

  1. We think it was stuck rings from being in storage. Ironically I did check the bores and they did get a squirt with WD-40 before I put the head on. Mike
  2. Yeah but my life would be boring if I didn't do daft things like this. Fortunately I have a very understanding wife. Quote of the day has to go to Dave " some people wouldn't see this as a social event but you can't own enough engines to take apart." Mike
  3. We had stock (24 spline disco) shafts and cv's up front and a borrowed ARB and HD shafts in the rear. Mike
  4. Well that didn't go according to plan. So we couldn't get the down pipe off the turbo, easy fix just used the turbo off the original engine. Next go to fit the temp sender only to discover one thermostat housing appears to be BSP and the other NPT. That's ok we'll just Rob the housing off the original....... except the bolts are corroded and seized in there. One undid but wouldn't come out the other snapped off, I'll be drilling that then. Next can't run the engine till the oil cooler is connected, grabs the radiator stellaghost kindly donated. Oil cooler fittings are different, yay, TSD has an old rad with the right ones. Drop it all in only to discover the oil pipes now won't go in as they foul the steering box, I'll put the old leaking one back in then shall I. Finally we're ready to start.. dead nothing. Find the cable that should be on the starter DOH. Now we can start it turns over and over and over. That sounds like no compression. After some head scratching and tea we check the timing and tappets both fine. This doesn't make sense even with one down it would try to start but this feels like all are down. Fortunately TSD has a compression tester 1 and 4 almost nothing 2 and 3 ok. At this point I have that sinking feeling we're going to be taking the head back off to God knows what. Before we do I suggest oiling the pots to see it the compression comes up, both 1 and 4 do. Well bugger it let's put the glow plugs back in and give it one last try. After a couple of attempts (clearing the oil that's hydraulicing it) it coughs and dies. Second attempt it starts to run away a little so shut it down, but this is probably just burning off the oil in 1 and 4. Third attempt finally it runs and ticks over. I've still got to fit the bump stops, replace the rad, put some antifreeze in and it looks like the glow plug relay has failed engaged but I've driven it home and it seems to be running nicely. Mike
  5. Old one out. Swap some bits over. Replacement back in. Enough for today. Found a broken bump stop mount, while the engine was out we had room to weld it back together. Hopefully get it running tomorrow. Huge thanks to TSD for his help and use of his workshop. Mike
  6. In 45 I had two matched battery's and a split charge diode. The ibex I have now has the aforementioned blue sea acr and a pair of 110 amp varta AGM stop start battery's. The acr is set up to link automatically when the start battery rises above 12.7v but manually connects both battery's when the winch is turned on. Mike
  7. I have a 500amp acr from blue sea on my ibex. Mike
  8. Possibly because the heads clash with the foot wells. Certainly this would be the case with a 200tdi, TD and n/a as all are quite close to the bulkhead. The 300 is quite a bit further forward though. Mike
  9. This may help (copied from another thread): finally i have a fairly good list for coil sprung land rovers. All measurement are approx standard working length flange to flange: defender 4 cyl/200tdi: 90 front 667 rear 667 110 rear 1055 130 rear 1480 300tdi/ td5 upto 02: 90 front 627 rear 712 110 rear 1080 130 rear 1520 post 02 td5 rover rear axle: 90 front 627 rear 712 110 rear 1170 130 rear 1600 V8: 90 front 627 rear 712 110 rear 1080 130 rear 1520 tdci: 90 front 700(bearing slip joint phasing can't be changed) rear 650 110 rear 1110 130 rear 1540 discovery I/II all: front 637(td5 double carden) rear 887 range rover classic V8 borg warner t-box: front 688 rear 885 LSE: front 637 rear 1080 V8/VM/200/300tdi: front 637 rear 887 hope this helps others if any are incorrect let me know. mike
  10. The route is a corridor so you can go off the beaten and often have to. We had to squeeze between two trees at one point, it resulted in a snapped winch line (tied it together to fine the stage, then spliced it in camp), two doors that wouldn't close anymore (bungee between to hold them shut) and quite a few more dents. Mike
  11. https://youtu.be/VFt6KkQcZLI Us on the dune race. Mike
  12. Tourist doesn't do the tree of God. The year we went was dryer than normal but on river crossing was half way up the windscreen. Mike
  13. I accepted the risk that I might be coming with a scrap truck. Dirtydiesel did scrap his range rover after the event. Mike
  14. Those tyres will be fine in adventure the route isn't the same as tr3 up, a large portion is but several of the more tricky bits are skipped. Don't worry there's still plenty to keep you occupied. We did air down to about 15psi with no form of "stick" on the bead. Yes we punched tyres off but normally only one on a stage, one stage we did three but if you can't put it back on you shouldn't be going. We had European breakdown cover but you still need to get out of Russia don't you daan. There were several trucks in one of the classes with families in including kids. Dirtydiesel did it in a range rover, the Belgians I think took too. Dan and Jen took a camel 110! Mike
  15. Back wall is fully down now and amazingly the floor levels are near enough the same. I'm not moving stuff into the back section yet as I'm going to paint the rear floor (yes fridge I'm going to paint it 😛), oh and I may have an engine swap that's going to take precedence. Mind that should give the screed time to dry out properly before I paint. Mike
  16. I'm fortunate enough to be in good health for now, but I'm well aware of how things can change. Consiquently I've been a platelet donor for 20 years (the bit chemo inadvertently kills off) just to try to do my bit. I wish you and everyone in a similar situation a full and speedy recovery. Mike
  17. Careful if you visit you may get roped into carrying this: Or Down there. Mike
  18. Give me a couple of weeks years to tidy it up. Your all more than welcome anytime. Mike
  19. Still can't get in there yet. Mind half the back wall is down now. Mike
  20. I'm going to pick up the other engine tomorrow and bring it here so I can get it built back up during the week. Mike
  21. I've cladded the front bits this morning, just needs a coat of paint to tidy the front up. Mostly inside now, still got to remove old walls. Mike
  22. I don't have them fitted but you do get uneven rear pad wear. Mine tend to last about a year (about 10k) on the rear. Mike
  23. https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/blind-threaded-rivet-studs.html Mike
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