miketomcat

If you two were in the same workshop all hell would break loose, good job your at different ends of the country. Mike

It's a 110 so switching tanks isn't a huge leap but the TD5 item is plastic so I would. The marsland chassis on mine has a TD5 cross member with older style tabs welded on. You should be able to use either the TD5 adjustable rail mount or add tabs. I'm not aware of any changes to the rear tub until puma so don't see why the rails either side of the tank need changing. Many have fitted TD5 tubs on earlier chassis. I'm fairly sure the gearbox mounts are bolt on. The 300tdi and TD5 use the same gearbox and transfer box so the mounts should be the same (I'm using TD5 gearbox mounts on an lt77). The prop lengths are the same so I assume the gearbox is in the same place. TD5 exhaust should mate to a 300 down pipe you may need to alter the length and flange (again I'm running a TD5 centre and rear coupled to a 200tdi discovery down pipe on my ibex). Overall if you have the skills to move the engine mounts then the rest is either buying a different part and/or some adaptions. Once the two chassis are side by side all becomes clear anyway. Mike

This thread is very helpful to the technically challenged on so many levels. Mike

I've seen worse.

They do hold their value. However it probably cost £20-30k to build. The market for them is comparatively small, mainly because no body seems to knows about them. They don't come up for sale very often, this also keeps the value high. When you think it's basically a defender without the rust issues, hence age is irrelevant it's condition that matters. I couldn't afford to buy one but was lucky enough to find an unfinished from the factory and unstarted one cheap. It cost me a lot to build but at least it's in small chunks. Mike

Don't forget it's 100" wheelbase, rear overhang is roughly the same as a 90 so you have and extra 8" Mike

Yeah it's a very tidy truck and given defender prices I think it's very good value. Mike

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-Foers-Ibex-250-/255338560434?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Mike

Damb you quite good at this really. Mike

Err because it's a taste void...... Mike

Personally I'd convert it to a wholly discovery engine set up and use a Steve Parker exhaust down pipe. The defender parts are saleable, discovery parts are generally easier to get hold of. I had a similar set up in one of mine and there was always a problem somewhere. Our current 110 has a discovery engine in and it much nicer. The other thing to check is have the flywheel housing bolts (lower 4 iirc) been converted or just left out as I've seen on several. Mike

Until electric cars can tow a sensible weight without completely destroying its range, the defender will have a value and by that point the truck will be vintage or we'll all be dead. Mike

And you can't see the other truck in a similar position about 50ft away. Both had to be rolled sideways onto their roofs then back onto their wheels with the winch on a C303 if I remember correctly. Mike

We did the first stage on 31" BFG km1's. The ones daan linked look good, having been I wouldn't have a problem with taking km3. As daan says we were warned off simex by jez. I think good self cleaning is best. Once you break the surface it's just ooze so floatation is useful. Mike

This section just got way more interesting. Nice to see you on here again Dan. Mike

The truck I did Ladoga in (45) and the ibex both have 24 spline 1994 discovery front axles. The ibex has an 86 Salisbury rear, 45 had a 24 spline discovery rear with uprated shafts and locker. The 110 has the original 10 spline 1983 front axle and Salisbury rear. I normally remove the tbox with two jack's under it and a strap under the gearbox, then roll the car forward and lower. But I have just bought this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Heavy-Duty-500kg-Motorcycle-Motor-Bike-Stand-Scissor-Lift-Jack-Workshop-/203219380359?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 For gearbox removal and it works well. Mike

The advice I've been given in the past is if you want to fit a locker you must do the rear first. If you want a front locker the rear must already be done. On the basis I don't have any I don't have experience but I believe a locked front axle with an open rear is dangerous to drive. I don't know why and am happy to be proved wrong but this is what I was told years ago. Mike

I have a rakeway HD release bearing that uses the bearing off the type you showed hence I know they just press off. I had a job finding one when I changed the gearbox recently. I had a crumble at a supplier that listed the correct number and picture but still sent the later version. Several suppliers have the early one pictured but the later part number. Mike

It's frc9568 however it's supersede by ftc5200. You do not want ftc5200 but many suppliers will send it instead. Mike

I did Ladoga with stock front axle and transfer box, the rear axle had a borrowed locker and HD shafts. On 33" tyres. My ibex and 110 are both on stock drive train (the ibex had HD drive flanges solely to stop the leak) both get off roaded the ibex is used for marshaling our local site days. Both are on 33" tyres. I run 1.4 transfer boxes, over drive would be nice but I don't feel I need one. If on stock tyres I would go to a 1.2. As for yours assuming the rear axle is a Salisbury service all, recon the transfer box and throw a hi lift and some spares in the back (a winch or turfor is nice). Job done easy to fix unlikely to break given your use and spend the money on the trip. Mike

Ironically someone at work mentioned doing a dry sand cement mix, leveling it then damping it. Mike

The class your going in does less swamp than daan did. From memory we had 30m on the winch a 30m spare and about 50m of assorted strops. I don't recall using much more than 70m in one length, but we did triple line at least twice. We had a second hand M8000 and a spare motor. The camel had a husky and spare motor. If your going to take a spare winch then Chinese ones will probably be fine just give them a good clean and service. I would happily go back with an EP9, come up or TDS my current winch is an X9 also a good winch. Mike

Those bearings just press off the plastic carrier, no need to cut the plastic. Just saying. Mike

On this occasion...........yes I agree. Mike

I have a dilemma due to the wonderful weather recently cutting the roof off the existing shed is looking marginal. So the plan is to sort the rear floor, move all my kit into the back half then finish the roof/front wall. So the rear sections floor needs sorting. I have rough, thin (in places) and cracked concrete. I'm not digging it up! I want in to be vaguely flat and dry. I'm thinking some sort of bitumen coat then heavy duty leveling screed over the top. Or perhaps dpc sand/cement mix and slabs. Either way needs to be as cheap as possible. It's not going to have any vehicle traffic or jacking, the worst is likely dropping something off the bench/beating something into submission. Ideas, comments welcome. Mike