miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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90 and 110 chassis has a web at the front of the spring hanger.
Mike
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I have to say I'd be adding some bracing elsewhere if removing that web.
Mike
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It is definitely easier to snap bolts off in this weather. In fact in my experience anything you touch at subzero temperatures is likely to break. I'm sure there's science to it and plastic is worse you only need look in it's general direction.
Mike
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We use Dan cover tents at work (like the pop up garage but much bigger) for boats they work well and definitely give a nicer work space. Two bits of advice first get a white one as they are much lighter inside so you're less likely to need lights. Secondly they suffer from condensation quite badly however you can either ventilate well to reduce it or adding a second layer of polythene inside with an air gap in-between makes a huge difference.
Mike
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Bottle or trolley jack and axle stands is all I do. Like you I have a workshop at the bottom of the garden but the drive is at the front of the house. Worst still I live on a fairly main road so I can't leave stuff out.
Mike
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23 minutes ago, garrycol said:
My 101 has similar pulleys as you are making. I change I would make and I am going to do this, I would consider putting in sealed bearings in the center of the pulley. I find that when going offroad , even though they are well greased, they quickly get grit in them and grind. Same applies to all the pulleys in the system.
Pic of a genuine swivel housing - yours looks pretty good 🙂
Â
I used pulleys with bearings on the vector system on my ibex. I was concerned about grit etc and as I didn't have the pulleys foers normally use it was a good excuse to get some. I've no idea what they came off as they were on eBay but they've been fitted for 7 years and I'm not very good at cleaning.
In fact at one point I thought they had seized but it turned out the tube was full of mud, once clear it all started working again.
Mike
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40 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
Straying even further form the OP, Angus and I are looking to run a winching/recovery day over at Binegar. Probably in March. It will be a refresher/ new starter/ interesting techniques not in the books/try kit day. There will be a cost, simply for land and insurance, but it shouldn't be too much
Definitely interested if I can get there at the time.
Mike
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I reckon the rivet counters will be fooled, and that is no mean feat.
Mike
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Lead acid is flooded, AGM is often spiral wound (Optima), gel are generally completely sealed and deep cycle. Then you slip down the slippery slope of lithium.....
At least this is my understanding and I'm generalising.
Mike
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12 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
One of the reasons I've got all my shackles listed for sale is because I want to shift to having no metal liable to fly anywhere if possible.Â
One of those rings are likely to be on the shopping list.Â
That's great except as David points out, rarely are recovery points smooth/round enough for rope and your hook rarely fits. Let alone when there's no recovery points in the first place.
Personally I have an issue with all this gear that relies on the rope sliding over it. It increases friction thus increasing wear and heat, there's also the mechanical losses caused by the above.
Mike
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I think it's easier to ship from the States to the UK than to Europe, but don't quote me on that. Either way it won't be cheap. A yank car dealer might be the best to ask.
Mike
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I have a similar system to fridge on the caravan build but I've only got one mppt30, two panels and two 110ah battery's. Last trip we were parked for 5 days in autumn and it struggle to keep up with the fridge so I turned it off overnight when it was cooler anyway. Hense I've added a second panel but haven't been out yet, though it's keeping the battery's fully charged at the moment.
Mike
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My 100w panel will deliver 3 amps fairly well but it's flat on the roof so sub optimal mounting. Angled and tracking would see better results but I just added a second 100w panel. It's difficult to tell what it will deliver because once the battery's full it drops back to under an amp.
Mike
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Mike
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Tow rope (24mm 3 strand),
Selection of shackles and strops 1-6ton and 2-5m,
1 endless strop 2m,
2 snatch blocks,
10m dyneema winch extension
Spade,
Winch blanket,
Gloves,
12ton bottle jack,
First aid kit, fire extinguisher, tyre repair kit and pump
Warn X9 in a vector system with 11mm dyneema,
I have 2 bridging ladders and a Hi lift but they stay in the workshop.
Mike
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My rear prop is nearly as long as a 130, it definitely doesn't clunk. In fact there's no noticeable difference to any other LR product (I've had several), Salisbury or rover axled. Sounds like more investigation is required.
Mike
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The connectors TSD mentioned look very similar to the NEMA 2000 cable plugs used on marine nav gear, often outside or in the bilge.
Mike
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The 3 bolt is imperial so the pipework won't fit either. I think the mounting bolts are imperial too, but the chassis spacing and hole size is the same.
Mike
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TSD has a mate who put a V8 transverse in a classic mini....
Anything can fit if you try hard enough.
Ironically I saw said mini at a show long before I met TSD and was amazed, then I learnt a lot more about it and was both horrified and amazed.
Mike
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How many times have you seen a marshal in a relatively standard truck drive around a stuck monster to extract them.
For instance my ibex has completely stock land rover suspension and drive line but I regularly get accused of having a tricked up truck. 
Mike
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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:
😂 I’m just trying to trick him into starting the RR 😊
Seriously though - They do generate never ending lists, my 90 is certainly generating jobs faster than I can get them done …. but it’s drivable
….and I was thinking John’s 109’s been rewired and what not and seems to have come back into being ready to go - the ambulance has successfully done some chunky trips ..  so could they stand being ignored for a bit in favour of the RR.
I keep pointing out to him that just fitting a big electric winch makes far more sense than messing about with hydraulic. Especially as in his words "I've barely needed a winch so far". He could have it sorted in a weekend instead of messing about for months. In fact if @FridgeFreezer were to fit an electric motor to a H14........
Mike
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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I still think you could've made it work if you really tried
Oh I could, but it needed the cage changing, fuel tank replacing and moving, the roof changing to a rag top or a rear door similar to Bowie's, the radiator moving back to the front and the rear floor changing to allow seats and foot wells. It would have cost me circa £2.5k taken about 6 months and I'm still not sure I'd of had the height for child seats. On top of all that we had a baby and a house renovation, oh and I would of needed another car to get to work. So.......not much has changed really.
I'm fairly sure I have the distinction of being the only tomcat regularly used for towing 3.5ton trailers.
To be honest I loved my tomcat it was great fun but the ibex is much more practical/useful nearly as capable and still a lot of fun.
Â
Mike
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Mine was diesel and built as a daily driver. I took it to the artic circle and to Bulgaria in winter (-20°c) amongst other locations. In fact the only reason I don't still have it is I couldn't fit two baby seats in the back.
Mike
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@Claytonv8 yours is almost certainly a tomcat, I recognise the layout of the frame. What length is it? Screen wise you have several options, tomcat used to stock a bonded in heated screen which I strongly recommend (I had on in mine) if you can get one as I think the business was up for sale. Secondly you can get a flat sheet of laminate glass cut and either bond it in or fit it using screen rubber just remember bonded needs to be big enough to land on the strip where as rubbered needs to be around 10mm smaller than the strip.
I took my chassis to them where they fitted the spaceframe, I then built it from there. Feel free to contact me if you need to.
Mike
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In fact at one point I thought they had seized but it turned out the tube was full of mud, once clear it all started working again.
For instance my ibex has completely stock land rover suspension and drive line but I regularly get accused of having a tricked up truck. 
ibex 300 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I between house alterations I've changed the rear stub axle because I couldn't get the hub seal to stay oil tight. The indicator stalk wouldn't stay on so that's been replaced. This week the injection pump decided to dump fuel on the floor, initially I ordered a seal kit but it got so bad I ended up swapping it out before the kit arrived. I had notice the engine had got rather rattley which I put down to it being tired then started to get a whiff of diesel. By the time I found it I had a solid drip which turned into a dribble by the time I got home from work. Hence me having to rob the pump off the other engine, the swap was relatively uneventful but it refused to start. After double checking everything I spotted the stop solenoid cable had been knocked off. 🤬 Once reattached it fired first time but smoked quite badly, fortunately the smoke settled down and I was able to drive it. It now drives and sounds better than it has in a long time, I guess it's been dieing for a while. Given I've got a kit I'm tempted to strip it and reseal it but because the other pump runs so much smoother I worry the pump is dead.
Mike