HoSS

Hmm i might have to add the pressure bypass control too

Well thanks to this thread reminding me and a bit of Covid boredom, i converted mine to hydraulic. Found a 2nd hand pump and ordered a cylinder etc from Flowfit. Cost me about 200 Quid in total. Will do about 5t at 250 bar, thats with a 50mm bore 400mm stroke cylinder. Considering i never found anything i couldnt do with the 1t hand pump it will be more than sufficient.

Thing is the 6x6 chassis dont come up every day, I've not seen a 20 chassis available. And bonus with this one is it has papers already for Diesel, so less headache registering. But you have a point, maybe even on the 1314 chassis the motor can be moved back, probably requires the round crossmember to be moved.

Not sure about that without testing, but simple put another LED in inverted parallel, one or the other will light. Make them 2 different colours and you have that information too.

Well its been a long time with no update, put that down to time and money. However the bonus of Covid is that i got to spend 8 weeks in my garage isolating with my loved one (Truck not Mrs). I've reworked the tilting cab a little, worked on the engine clearances to the diff (still need to cut & weld the sump to improve), but mainly worked on the technical area (is what i'm calling it) Its a structure behind the cab that holds batteries, air compressor, hydraulic pump and there will be 2x 60L water tanks. I'll post some pictures soon. On other developments - I always wished i'd bought the longer 6x6 chassis, and am in discussion with a chap to buy a rolling chassis, but fret not all of my work can be trasnfered over.

Yeah OSB is nice stuff, in the past i'd always used Chipboard for floors etc, but OSB is lighter yet more rigid across spans and much more waterproof.

That's interesting that the process was fairly simple, i was dreading that route. Of course it could be different south of the border... To get a lift in it would need to be at least 4m high with some width at that height, but i suppose its possible, one neighbour has a 2 storey garage.

Hi, nice work. I've seen this thread quite late, and have not read it all, but how did you proceed for planning? I was thinking of doing something similar at my folks place and what i remember from the planning exempt regs, it could not be less than 1m from a boundary (and other stuff - 4m high double-pitch, 2.5 flat roof) An aside - I want to put a lift in mine and the max heights may mean i have to go the approval route.

I have one of those Clarle ones in my 2nd workshop at folks place, its not great not well balanced / concentric, the drill wobbles. Ok for rough stuff, but not precision. I'd either look out for a 2nd hand old / well made one, or buy a Bosch, which i have int the main workshop and has been flawless for 10 years.Link For a tad more money, it has 2 speed gearbox, variable motor and display with depth measurement.

Its super easy. I ordered the C beam cut to length with my local metal supplier (about 100 Eur) and just had to drill loads of 12.5 holes. I will convert it to electric 20t ish at some point when i find a good deal on a power unit & cylinder.

I built myself a press from C beam, intending to find a 20t cylinder eventually, but put in a 1t body repair cylinder temporarily. In 5 years i've never needed any more. I would warn against the Machine Mart type ones, a neighbour has one and the frame is now banana shaped. So easy to make. did mine with a sliding truck, very useful feature.

I got a Merc steering wheel about 30m in the air And the cylindrical guns, stuffed into a steel tube, can fire a candle projectile through a surprising thickness of cardboard boxes. But ffs, take care if you play with these things...

+1 Magnecor

I'll say just in case... Dont go measuring the resistance of an airbag, they take a strong 12v to trigger, but i wouldn't want to risk it with a meter (unless you put it on a long lead down the garden) By the way if one is careful you can have some great fun with airbag guns