HoSS

Yeah i have the same concerns, it might be worth a punt, i'll do some more research also. There are more professional things the same made by Bosch and Valeo, but you can add a 0 onto the price. Theres a few reviews on amazon for that same box all positive, but one is never sure if thats posted by the seller....

There are some not-so-expensive 3D multicam systems i was looking at. You calibrate the cameras and the box stiches together a full 3D view, even from above. e.g https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Real-HD-3D-car-360-surround_60706260945.html?spm=a2700.details.deiletai6.3.a5e118628BCtEt

Thanks will make a note of that. Useful that they have an encoder. I think i'd need to use it as limit switches only sync at the end of travel, and the roof wont tolerate too much de-sync, it would jam.

Are you planning the bed will see a lot of pitching and rolling? Lead screw mech looks interesting, i need to find a system to do lifting roof, and struggle to find commercial actuators with enough travel at sensible prices.

Hydraulic spare wheel lift which will double as steps when down.

The nice thing about Covid is the extra time i get to spend in the garage... Engine fully mounted, new shocks, cab test fitting, brake line renewal started

I dont think anyone has mentioned it - Tidy the workshop!

ok all i've had were the same (defender anyway) IIRC. I'll rephrase the question then - If anyone has any shock bushes on the shelf, please could you measure and include the part number? Then i can see what works for me and order.

Are they different bushes top & bottom? sounds strange... Both then if you can pls

Has anyone got a set of shock bushes on the shelf that they could measure for me? Major / minor diameters + width when stacked? I need some for a non-LR project and they look about right.

I cant comment on POR15, but it sounds like the prep was not done correctly, perhaps oil or other contaminants. Even standard paint can stick if done well. My 45 year old Volvo chassis just had standard paint, albeit with a think layer of military bitumen over 80%, and when stripped back the metal is like it left the factory. Even some of the paint does not want to come off easily in blasting. Galv is great, but so is almost any paint if its applied correctly. And theres the tricky part, we do our best, but without industrial blasting, perfect degreasing etc there can be issues.

Not silly, i have epoxy floor paint in the garage (actually its road white line paint dyed grey. No it didn't fall off the back of a lorry) and that sticks to anything.

Sandblast & degrease is the best. Etch primer (or special for galva), or an expoxy paint like EM121. I've just done a chassis in that and it sticks like the proverbial poop and is super tough https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint-7 I've not used POR, but i imagine the EM-121 is similar or even the same.

Hey, not all BMW drivers are bad. One of mine is a bike, it even has extra ones.

I once saw a warning in a BMW manual about the LED's used in the dash lights - that they were emitters of radiation and that you should not look directly at them..