HoSS
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Posts posted by HoSS
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26 minutes ago, Escape said:
Wont nuts be a bigger size than a reduced hex bolt? The stud has to pass through them, so extra material is needed.
Well no 'extra' material, nut AF is the same as bolt head AF. And you can get reduced nuts. M7 AF is 11mm as standard, but i did find 10mm.
But it was never an issue of the bolt head diameter, rather the tool needed. If i'd used std hex bolts a ratchet ring spanner would not go in there.
Using studs they start much lower and one can spin the nuts on by hand then finish off with a normal ring spanner.
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5 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
That driver is still way too fat - you need to chop about 5-6mm off the top of the bit and get a Naro driver that doesn’t have a huge plastic knob on the top, they're only about £10 and worth every penny - I've got about 3 of them now;
Yeah even that would be troublesome, as when you start to drive the bolts theres only <5mm available, and not all were going in by hand.
I've cut the bolts into studs now and have some M7 nuts coming.
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Right that works, Bowie wins the beer.
I'll cut the bolt heads off and turn them into studs. Nuts are 11mm AF and that ring-spanner goes in.
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7 minutes ago, RedLineMike said:
As a thought, just seen m7 bolts are a common fitment on BBS split rims , might be worth looking in that direction,
Yeah thats what i found in that link above, split rim bolts. Problem is i dont want stainless in the alu head, which leaves titanium at 10Eur a piece, and for some reason not widespread in europe.
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3 hours ago, steve b said:
From the above pic , why not chop the driver bit at the lower edge of the yellow band and use a ratchet ring spanner on the remaining hex ?
Steve
Considered that, but there are a few places where the diameter of the rachet end is too big, and again there still too little height before the bolt is driven.
2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:Feels to me that this is a situation where a stud is more suitable, then you can find nuts more easily:
Alternatively, drill out and shove an M8 tap down it, and then the bolt or stud world is your oyster.
Yeah thats a possible, will look into it. Problem i suspect is that M7 nuts will be 9mm and the 9mm ring still too big dia to get between some of the leaders, hence why i wanted reduced head.
1 hour ago, zardos said:How about a better full shank Torx bit with an open ended 1/4 inch spanner
I've use this before for tight spots
This needs about 10mm of clearance to use as you can cut off the unneeded shank.
Considered that, but the though of winding down 14 bolts 15 deg at a time with the bit constantly falling out didnt fill me with much enthusiasm. Plus open-ended too big dia.
Could weld on into a 1/4" ring though.
Thanks will investigate your ideas Zardos & Bowie
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Picture/1000words... You can maybe see what i mean, no way to drive from above.
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Yes i bought that Wera 1/4" hex ratchet last week, its still too tall to work.
Thanks for all of the ideas, but it will be far easier with e-torx or 12-point, since they do exist what i need is supplier suggestions.
Racebolt have them (as above link from landroversforever) but only 8 in stock at the moment. Will back order or from US ebay supplier i found,
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7 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
20mm would be plenty for a shortened hex key?
Considered that - but before the (25mm) bolt is driven in, theres virtually nothing, and with slight misalingnment/fricton its not easy to wind them in by fingers.
The MB bolts i have are Torx and you cant shorten a Torx key.
Will be far easier to use e-torx or 12-point, they are out there just a question of cost/lead time.
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No theres only about 20mm above the bolt, so no room for a key or socket, it needs something thats done up with a ring spanner, But not enough diameter to get a 9mm ring spanner on between the leaders. Its very tight.
Has to be 12-point or e-torx.
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Hmm thats not terrible - 10 M 7 - 1.0 x 31mm 12 Point Flange 3 Piece Wheel Bolts | eBay if i can wait for delivery from US
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might do, depends on flange diameter, looks more than a std hex. Also SS not the best thing into alu head, galvanic corrosion. But i'll expand my search into reduced head, thanks
Found a BMW piece, but 11 Eur each
Original BMW 11127558454 - [Super Price] Screw aussentorx M7X36 1er 3er 5e... | eBay
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I need to fix my modified inlet manifold to the OM606, and the space is very limited.
I cant use the standard MB torx bolts as theres no room to drive from above, and i can't use hex head as theres no diameter to get a spanner on.
So have have come to the conclusion i need e-torx head. But trying to find that in M7 is like rocking horse poo (except in titanium which costs 10 quid each)
Any ideas on suppliers?
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To be totally heat resistant - woven glass fibre sleeve, but its a tube, you'd have to remove connectors.
Any tape relies on the adhesive being resistant, most loom tape are reasonably resistant, but you have to route the cables away from the worst heat. Remember the wire insulation underneath will fail if too hot anyway.
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Pretty sure thats a safety wire tool, as used in aviation and motor racing. Does the inner part of the tool spin with the knurled know on the end.
You hook the loop of wire onto the hook, spin to twist and then cut off.
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Yeah i'd buy one of those. Look more durable than the collapsible fire pits i've bought for camping, which warp after 1 use.
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I asked for 20k cover on mine without problem, but then i'm in France so that doesnt help you much.
But a point raised above - I thought what happen if i do get it all nicked - So i made a list of all the major items and took photos. a) to prove to insurance what i had and b) so that i could replace if i did need to.
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Ok didnt see them, and as there was no bridge. So its full wave rectified, but no smoothing or regulation.
It will be pulsing at 100Hz and the voltage will fluctuate with load. Some things wont like that.
You could add a smoothing capacitor, even a regulator, but it depends what kind of load you are drawing.
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I've used this stuff to do repairs & modificationes e.g alternator bracket, it works well, but the part must be totally oil free and watch out as the rod melt point is not far below the alu melting point.
Aluminium Repair Brazing Rods Online - Welding and Brazing - HTS-2000 Aluminum Repair
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Theres no rectifier on the board, it is AC.
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Alternative option, fit portals to the truck and then you can just sit up underneath while you work
I already have them, and i've often mused i could probably pitch a tent under there..
(apologies for thread drift) Actually the way it seems to work where i'm talking about, rural location is that barns/stables seem to be allowed. One went up around the corner in a previously empty field a few years ago so that a townie that moved in could keep horses. Thats a 6m high industrial type thing. I just need to say i'm putting 150 horses in it (or whatever that is in kW)
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2 hours ago, JohnnoK said:
Can you not use the raised tie, scissors or raised tie scissors trusses to get the height you need?
Problem as i see it, is say vehicle height is 2.5m and i want to raise it 2m, thats already over 4m.
I think it will have to be a planning consent build...
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19 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Was it you @simonr that put the 4 post lift outside and built some kind of shelter on it so it goes up with the lift? Someone on here has done it that way.
Yeah it was simon i think, i remember it on here somewhere. Dont want that though, nice cosy dry workshop please.
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On 3/27/2021 at 4:05 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Only wrinkle with a ramp is if you've got the headroom, and a solid enough floor, but if you're building the workshop to suit it's less of an issue.
TBH if I was starting from scratch I'd be tempted to dig a pit anyway, you can always leave it covered and not use it if you prefer the ramp.
A friend of mine bought a house with a pit in the garage, has no interest in working on cars. Its now a wine cellar
I was looking at the future and how to build a garage high enough for a lift and still stay within the planning-free build option, i can't see it. (flat roof limited to 2.5m or pitched 4m)
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I had a fault once on my MIG, had not used it for some months.
It would feed for a few seconds then jam, then feed again then jam. Put a new liner in, checked the rollers, still not fixed.
Turns out the reel had surface rust just on the bottom half.
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Looking for a carrier that can transport a pallet to France.
in International Forum
Posted
www.shiply.com
But dont be surprised if prices have gone up post brexit. I shipped and engine UK>FR for around 200, then recently looked to ship a similar size/weight there were no quotes coming in less than 500.