Dano

cheers, i take it thats gearbox out then, can it be done in situ by removing the inspection plate etc?

Can anyone tell me why 2nd would jump out of gear on the backlash, it also crunches into 2nd I do hope I'm not going to have to take the box out again! thanks

if you are interested here are my calculations Date / Mileage/ Fuel (l)/ MPG/ Notes 27/07/2008/ 10040/ 19.3/ 16.25/ urban 01/08/2008/ 10103/ 19.76/ 14.49/ urban 01/08/2008/ 10185/ 18.1/ 20.59/ motorway fully loaded without diff engaged 01/08/2008/ 10250/ 12.08/ 24.46/ motorway fully loaded without diff engaged 01/08/2008/ 10388/ 32.9/ 19.06/ motorway with diff lock engaged 03/08/2008/ 10467/ 19.89/ 18.05/ off-road and motorway 05/08/2008/ 10520/ 13.15/ 18.32/ motorway fully loaded with diff engaged 05/08/2008/ 10643/ 25.52/ 21.91/ motorway fully loaded with diff engaged it doesnt seem to format too well on here, basically 24mpg on the motorway with th e freewheeling hubs free, two up and full of kit at 55mph although I think my speedo is 20% out so could be faster, I am quite pleased with this mpg, could do with a bigger tank though just thought my odo could also be out which would skew my mpg calculations too

nice pics, looks like a cool location, thanks for sharing

Thanks! I didn’t look at the forecast yet, I’ll be down south in Merthyr Mawr under canvas so I hope its not raining all weekend!

Well it was the water pump, new one fitted and all is well, amazing how that sound travels, I was convinced it was the gearbox yesterday Thanks Jon for your advice

I know Barrs Leaks is a bodge, I did buy another pump to replace it though, I was just tight for time, I will have an investigation a little later and post my findings

Err can I change my mind? Upon reading Jon’s post I took it for a spin to see if it happened in neutral etc which it did, I got under the bonnet which I had not had an opportunity to do yesterday, it seems the sound is travelling quite a bit because this noise is actually coming from the front or top/front of the engine upon revving, its sounding really bad, I don’t think its pinking or detonating although I did retard the timing slightly yesterday morning, this sounds a whole lot worse, I am hoping it’s the waterpump although I don’t think so and I would expect that to leak or make the noise all of the time (it was dripping slightly before but some bars-leaks sorted it) but it sounds more top end or possible timing chain, I will have to investigate later today

Driving around yesterday I picked up a nasty rattle from what I think is the gearbox, it started in 1st then over the next hour or so progressed to 2nd and then 3rd, the rattle is quite sever and occurs at a certain rev range say over 2k in al of the gears, if I keep the revs low I can almost prevent it, not had the opportunity to drive fast enough to see if it occurs in 4th When I dismantled the gearbox to replace the detent clips on 3rd/4th synchro I didn’t notice any other significant wear or play in any of the components, it seems I may have missed something although I guess this could be the transfer box, doesn’t appear to be the overdrive as it occurs whether it is engaged or not Does anyone have an idea what this could be? Are we talking a main bearing or component here? I am meant to be driving it to Wales and back this weekend I am really concerned that this gearbox will fail, what will be the result of anything in there failing?

All I have is the +ve lead from the loom, the –ve goes to the condenser and the HT lead Its running a standard coil which I presume is 12v, isn’t it? I have a Maplin amplifier to fit, surely it will work with the standard coil

Seems my estimation was a bit off, just filled up yesterday and I got 16.25MPG, considering that I have had it running on the drive at idle for long periods, the tyre pressures need adjusting and the drive train fluids need replacing, plus the back is full of tools I guess this is not too bad, I hope to push this up to over 20MPG eventually, I will also monitor the before and after effects of adding the ignition amplifier from Maplin that I purchased, I will post the results up

I just replaced the coil, no resistor that I know of, from what I am hearing its just best not to leave the ignition on

Thanks I will do as you say with the advance No black smoke, does smell a bit rich, calculations may be wrong and the gauge may not be linear so will have to see when I fill up Its on 205/80r16's presume the Speedo is correct No idea if diffs are standard, I presume so Choke seems fine, got a brand new zenith (copy) Temp seems fine, just under the "N" Brakes are adjusted, don’t seem to be dragging It already passed the MOT yesterday, by fail I mean is the gearbox likely to break? I have to trip from Kent to Wales next weekend and hope I wont see a recovery truck for some time to come

Thanks for the reply, its a 1977 SIII I would have though it should have a Synchro, I guess its worn, hope it doesn’t fail! How do I check the bob weights? Check for advance with a timing light with the vacuum pipe disconnected? I used to get 22ish out of my last SIII 109, I just did a rough calculation and its about 9mpg or worse, although the gauge may not be accurate and there could be other factors, I will know when I fill up next and then check fluids and tyres etc and keep checking the MPG on every fill

My landy finally passed the MOT an is on the road for the first time in over 4 years, driving it about I have some observations and wonder if there is any advice 1) Even though I have had the gearbox apart, mended what was required and didn’t observe and major issues in the components 2nd gear is pretty poor, when changing from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 2nd there is a crunch (unless the revs are exactly right) also it jumps out of 2nd on the backlash, double-d-clutch doesn’t seem to have much affect, do you think this will break or is just one of those idiosyncrasies that I will have to live with? 2) When driving on the motorway and on long uphill stretched I can hear what I think is pinking, the timing has been set by ear, would this be a timing issue i.e. requiring a slight retard of the timing? (That would be anti clockwise on the dizzy right?) 3) Even though the engine seems to run fairly well the MPG seems shocking, I have not measured it yet but I had filled the empty tank with a jerry can full of petrol then put approx 38 litres in at the pump to fill it up, I have done 57 miles and the tank is just above the half way make, it has a new sender but I am not so sure the instrumentation is that good as its got a bit of a wobble, next time I fill it up I will calculate the MPG but does seem a little low? I am getting various other moans and groans out of it but I still have to stick in the one-shot grease and change the fluids in the diffs, this may help on the MPG also Thanks

Morning all, my landy failed its first MOT on a few little things including the headlight adjustment, on the refusal notice it states nearside / offside headlamp aim too low [1.6] My questions are, is this the setting it is at now or the setting it should be? also how do I set them up? I remember asking on the old forum for my other landy but can remember the details or the method i.e. park * feet from a wall, chalk a horizontal line on the wall at * and two vertical lines at * etc Thanks

You are right! I used to do this one some of my old cars, hidden switch from the LT under the dash, I was actually going to do it on the landy but didn’t think that it would be useful in this way I also have one of those race type start and toggle ignition switches I was going to fit under the bonnet on the bulkhead to help with starting and turning over when tinkering so I guess I could wire the toggle to the LT and the push button to the solenoid, it would be the same as connecting it to the ignition in parallel

or just pull the LT leads if you are sitting there with the radio on waiting for a recovery truck

Thanks for the replies, I also talked to an old-school mechanic who said that cheap coils do suffer from this, if you shake the coil and can hear the oil sloshing then there is not enough oil in there, these paddocks coils are £6 so I guess that is half the problem I think I will fit a leisure batters and split charge then run all ancillary from that including the radio and a performance coil as suggested on other threads Thanks

Has anyone ever had a coil explode or pop open? I just had the ignition on for the radio and was working at the back when I smelt this rather nasty smell, a cross between oil and plastic burning, checked all over couldn’t find anything, took the battery terminal off just in case and this is when I saw the clear fluid over the bay, then noticed that the top of the coil was hanging open and the casing was very hot Any idea why this should happen? Could it be my radio wiring? I wired it into some free connectors on the back of the fuses, one was perm 12v and one was 12v with the ignition, I have put a tester across the coil wires and nothing changes when I disconnect the radio so I cant see it being that

thanks for the help, just got the outriggers £20 the pair inc P&P, just got to find a welder now, may as well do it myself and add another string to my bow (although I have welded before many years ago)

Really! That’s outrageous, I didn’t see it displayed as used! I must say Paddocks in general have gone down in my estimation and Cradock’s have risen although I think both of their websites are rubbish, they take ages to load, things seem to be in the wrong places and I can seem to make the search functions work as they should Sorry didn’t want to hijack the thread

Thanks all, looks like I will have to buy myself a MIG (something I was putting off) anyone any recommendations, I would prefer a budget welder with a maximum capability of welding chassis thickness steel, I wont be doing any other welding (at least I don’t intend on doing any) Thanks

wonder why my photos are not showing

Just removed my fuel tank to clean and seal it with POR15 and found that the chassis outriggers are a little worse for rust, will this fail an MOT and what would be the recommended fix i.e. replace both out riggers or weld repairs over the damaged area? Thanks