gaz0203
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Posts posted by gaz0203
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deep bronze green seems about right! ill go for that! thanks
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my mates dad has just recently had his series one back from having soe major bulkhead repairs and wants me to give it a lick of paint. trouble is i have no idea what colour it should be. its been blue and red in the past looking where the paints cracked off but its now green, although not an original shade. exactly how many diferent dark greens were there on a 1957 series one? not looking for ajor originality just a shade of dark green i can ask for, thanks
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yea that really does, do you guys find that you hit your knuckles on it when you go for 1st 3rd 5th??? or do they not come out that far??
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i reckon 2500 is not out of the question. 200k is fine as long as its been looked after. if it drives sloppy, with slack in steering, gears etc, and the wipers go from bonnet to of the end of the screen, then you may struggle. but if its still reasonably tight, has a good chassis and runs nice, i dont see it being ecessive by no means. pictures do tell a thousand words though...
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ive gota say, afta lookin at the raptor one, i do feel it looks a little out of place, so thats out the question, ive just bin on the iron goat site and all was good, just what i was after....until i saw the price.. 195.00!!!!! ive gota say the mud console for 55.00 looks alot more promising!!!
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could you posta pic please malcolm?? love to see what it looks like thanks
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im looking at buying a mud console for my 90, ive put my radio in and if i do 60 the cds will skip, i put this down to dodgy mounting!! id like a mud console as i can then have a clock and extra swithces in also my cb. how do people rate these?? do you have any pics of ures??
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does anyone no if old man emu springs come in standard ride height to fit my 90??
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all that happens if you remove the large centre nut is that the gear comes off the pump shaft, but theres no keyway to put it back correctly!!!!!!!!!!! im speaking from experience. not something ill ever do again in a hurry!!! in the end i had to look closely at the pump shaft, there is a keyway groove in the gear and it left a mark on the shaft, so i marked it and fitted it back there. unfortunately it would not run so had to slacken the 3 pump bolts and insert the timing pin, then move the engine on slightly by turning the crank pulley. bit by bit until it started and ran. no idea where the timing is exactly but it dont half fly!!!!! in aperfect world id have removed the pump and got our local diesel specialst to put it back on in the right place. this a 2 minute job if your in the know!!!!!
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ive had one do this and it was the pipe from the turbo to fuel pump split, it wont fuel for the amount of boost its getting therefore runs hot and lacks poke, just summat worth looking at
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yea thats the one, thanks
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hi, i know this may have been on here before, but, id like a sticker to put in the back of my 90. ive searched ebay and found many variants but they are all different. does anyone have any pics of the original lr items??? thanks
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can i see the fuel pump gear and central boss on the floor in your pic?? does this mean you have undonr the large central nut and not the 3 around the boss? if so id take the pump and boss to your local diesel specialist get them to refit it and time it correctly
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youve probly done the usaul, if its properly snapped off then dash off, if its sort of cleanly snapped off but leaving a staggerd edge, you can buy a new jet, warm it up, and split it in 2 as they are joined. just click it back on to ur old jet. ive done loads and have to do mine 2 moro as i put the washers on by mistake in the ice and bew the end off it
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gwyn doesnt do the 200 kit yet, hopefuly my mates is going up there shortly for him to use as a guinea pig, so hopefully it shouldnt be too long....
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that is always the painful bit, as i say its cost up to 15k to get it that far, if it is only worth 6k then there really is no point in selling it i suppose, i mean what does 6k buy you today?? im sure i can convince him to keep hold of it........to be honest i dont think hed take much convincing!
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hi i do see what your saying but jst, id ove to be able too buy stuff at your prices!!!!!
arbs 600??? try 600 a piece....plus compresser
tyres 1124 fitted on white 8spokes
8274 900 and bumper 300
optimas x2 320
twin alternators 280
new door 500!!
i do understand whats been said just me pointing stuff out to prove my point
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yes it does,, when theres vacuum in the tank it makes it increasingly hard for the engine to get the fuel it needs. it will cause exactly the symptoms described. trust me ive had it al before
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yea well the truck owes about 15k, not expecting that at all but was just wandering whether 9k sounded 2 much, or too little for it, theres a d plate v8 wiv half the spec at simmonites for 10 995!!
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try removing the fuel cap, ive had this before when the cap blocked and the tank coudnt breathe
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been asked by a mate today what i thought his 90 was worth, as landrovers vary so wildly in prices im asking for a litle help in valueing it, as hard as it may be just a nod in the right direction to help us, right where to start.......
93 l reg truck cab 200 tdi, resprayed in audi hellrot (brightred)
checkerpate wings, loadliner
gwyn lewis challenge suspension full kit
gwyn lewis side exit exhaust
whitbread off road roll cage
rear mounted superwinch
gwyn lewis challenge front bumper
warn 8274 front winch
twin 120 amp alternator setup
twin yellow top optimas
uprated wiring everywhere
10 spline front and rear axles
arb locking front and rear diffs
4.7:1 crown wheel and pinions
35 inch simex extereme jungle trekkers like new
good chassis
one brand new door fitted
tax & test
really great vehicle which is really really competent, im hoping that he wont sell but needs must on times, we were thinking it was worth about 9k but it may be worth more, any hep greatfully accepted, many thanks
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i was always told that core plugs were used due to plugging holes up int he block used in the sand casting of the block, could be wrong tho, luckily tho, whatever there purpose, they do save a lot of damage when they pop out they let the water inside expand further saving other components, just make sure its 100% defrosted, new plugs and give it a whirr, oh and put anti freeze in it!! fingers crossed you should be ok
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i wouldnt worry too much about the crosshatching, as long as there is some and its pretty well equal all the wy round the cylinder u should be ok. the wear however is concerning, youl often get a large wear ridge at the top due to all the coke wear the piston rings do not reach, you could hold the hone right on that for a few seconds to get rid of it but a wear lip at the bottom???? that sounds as if it needs a rebore. id get someone to measure the bores with a micrometer before going any further
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allready done, disco transfer fitted but still painful, wel revert to the 3.54s if thats the only option but just wondered whether there was a ratio in between these and the series 3s
flasher unit
in Series Forum
Posted
just rebuilt my firends dads series one but am having issues getting the indicators that have been fitted working, what i need to no is what exactly do the 3 pins on the flasher unit do??? ive got a new unit but the numbering is completely different to the old one, thanks