CliveT

Hi Mossberg, yes have the gauge fitted and working. Sensor fitted to the rear of the engine by the lifting eye. Think I sent a photo before. To be honest I've not given it much attention and haven't set the alarms. You know how it is - always something else to think about! I seem to remember that the engine reading is about 70deg on an average run at say 55mph. That's obs because the sensor is badly placed, but could be useful if I set the alarm at a correspondingly low level. I will move the sensor when I get round to it. Small point on that gauge. It does remember the highest temp reached on the journey, but resets itself every time. You have a few moments after switching off to make a note before the screen goes blank.

My complete transmission is on the floor at the moment, taken out to change the clutch. While it's out there's so much space underneath that I'm taking time to do other things too. Treating rust, sump leak, tidying wiring etc etc. So it will be a while yet before I'm back on the road. There's a couple of options for the sensor bolt, but not decided yet. I'd be interested to know what you find out. Could ask Gaugeinnovations themselves if they have experience of sensor location? Cheers

I live in France, so not sure it would be the same, but I paid approx £107 for the unit, £16 delivery and £25 vat. That was all prepaid on eBay. When it was delivered the postie asked for 32 euros (£27 ish), assume that was import duty. It's not the cheapest gauge around, but it seems well designed, and is programmable with alarms. Plus it looks cool!

Yes, Bowie, on reflection it isn't the best of places. Do you think I could use one of the bolts on the egr blanking plate? That would be closer to the centre of the engine. This is the gauge I bought from gauge innovations on eBay. They're in Oz. There's various options of sensor configuration, and a 52mm round one too. It is programmable for when the alarm goes off. I figured I'd have to experiment based on different driving conditions.

Hiya, I've just installed a sensor on my 300tdi. I put it on a bolt right at the rear of the block which holds the lifting eye on. It had a metal cable clamp already on it. It's easily accessible from above, and convenient for routing the wire. I don't know if this is the best place thermically (is that a word?), but it's shielded from cooling effect of the airflow. It may not give a precise reading of the engine temperature, but it should detect any untoward increase which should trigger an alarm. My gauge is programmable so I'll have to experiment with the settings. I should point out that I've only just done this and don't yet have the gauge installed, so my reasoning my be completely flawed! Hopefully someone with actual experience can chip in. Clive

Hi Simon, I have been using DBL in Nailsea for years now and find them helpful, reliable and knowledgeable. All they service are Land Rovers. Dave is the boss. If you need to leave your vehicle there then it's only an easy bus ride back to Bristol. Say Clive with the converted 127 ambulance sent you (though it wont get you a discount!) Incidentally, I spend half the year in France (Aveyron), and half in Bristol, so I kind of assume that it's me that Arjan is referring to, but I'm not sure what his comment meant, or if I know him????? Sorry, do I know you Arjan? Clive

Repairing the hazard switch Just to let you know that it is possible to take the switch apart and clean up the contacts inside. Obviously if anything has broken inside then this is no use, but I managed to get my indicators working properly again by stripping and cleaning the switch. If you want to try then the following tips might be useful.... There are small plastic pins and springs inside so work on a clear table just in case! Slowly and carefully prise up the back of the switch which holds the copper contact pins. Hold the switch with these pins upwards and prise the back up. There are four plastic lugs to ease apart a little. Remember which way it goes (4 pins top) If you hold the switch with these pins upwards then the springs and plastic pins inside will remain sitting in the rocker part of the switch. Place this rocker part aside as this shouldn't need any attention. There are the two side spades for the rocker light which may come loose as you lift the back away. Push them back making sure that they sit tightly against the contacts inside. Inside the back of the switch you will see a white plastic piece which will fall out easily. Remember which way it goes! Behind this you can now clean up all the copper contact surfaces. There is one stiffer contact which needs to be bent up in order that you can clean underneath. Gently do this with a small screwdriver, clean the contacts and then bend back. (it was this one that was dirty on mine). To do this I cut a thin strip of wet and dry paper, folded it over the end of the screwdriver to form a mini 'file'. If you have a tester then you can check that the contacts are now clean and working. Reassemble and there you are! Hope thats useful to someone. It saved me £15 for a new switch (or over £50 for a Land Rover one!) cheers Clive

Well I'm not sure as mine is bolted directly to steel box section on the back of my vehicle, as I dont actually have a tow bar.

I have a rack from Maxxraxx. It had two bikes on for a six week trip round Morocco with lots of offroading. It didn't flinch! They do a 4 bike version too. Recommended.

I had the same dire support from Safari Equip, though I've found the products are well made. HOWEVER. If you have bought a tank from them which is supposed to be stainless steel then CHECK THAT IT IS STAINLESS. I bought two 130 tanks one for water and one for fuel. I ordered and paid for stainless steel. One was made in mild steel!!! Because they were black powder coated I had no idea. 'Fortunately' the mild steel was the one I used for the water, and soon the water turned brown. If I had used that side for the fuel I may never have known. You can test with a magnet as stainless is not magnetic. SE were apologetic and I got compensation in the form of a new water filter and some bumperettes made to order. Thats not the point though - I couldn't believe that such a basic error could be made. I met them at Peterborough and handed them the rusty tank there and a new stainless one was delivered soon after. The tanks originally came with the wrong fitting kits, not enough bolts etc etc. Similar tales to the others here. Nice people, good products but unbelievably bad management and organisation. Clive

I see that Safari Equip are still hopeless at getting their orders sent out correctly. It is good kit and they are a nice bunch of people and very helpful, but I've had so many problems getting the correct parts made/sent out. They really need to sort out their order processing/dispatch issues.

Thanks Joe90 Thats exactly what I had in mind. Did you put any extra supports underneath? Also, how did the paint hold? Aren't the dico handles rubber coated? cheers Clive

Interesting replies... But sounds like no-one has done it. I had not thought so much of getting in and out, but more for the passenger to use when going over rough ground or dangerous roads. I dont generally do off roading, but last summer we drove to Greece and we did some pretty hairy mountain roads on the way. I thought that having a big handle to hang on to might be more of a reassurance for the passenger really (I've got the steering wheel for my knuckles to white on!) An additional benefit might be that the handle would make the top of the dash 'deeper' so we could rest a book/map etc there? I may take the dash apart one day and see if suitable fixings could be made with additional strengthening. cheers Clive

Hi all Has anyone fitted a long grab handle on the dash of a defender for the passenger - like the discovery has/had I believe. Dont know if the dash would have strong enough fixing points. Would it be possible to fit a disco handle I wonder? Any fotos would be a bonus Cheers Clive

Thanks all. Saved me a lot of effort. From what Rusty says it seems like a new pair of rubbers are needed. Oh well. I hate throwing things away that are serviceable, but they do look a mess.... Clive