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About markyboy

  • Rank
    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Stoke on Trent, UK

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  • Interests
    Motorsport, DIY, Football, Cricket, Motorbikes, Water Skiing/Boating.
  1. Looks superb, keep up the excellent work.
  2. Thanks for that, much appreciated. I will make my own but was looking for ideas on the mountings. The front will go to the bulkhead bracket.
  3. Where/what do your rock sliders bolt up to at the rear?
  4. Hi, a quick question, if you don't mind. Have you fitted standard dampers with the parabolics? I'm going to fit parabolics to my S3 SWB and I'm unsure whether I need to use longer dampers. Regards, Mark.
  5. Despite the difference in size of the unions, the brake pipes are the same size. It is also true that the Master cylinder has a single bore size. On a SWB Land Rover Series 3 with dual circuit brakes, both pipes go into the PDWA (Pressure Differential Warning Actuator) valve, and from there they go to front and rear axles. If you have a look at the page below, it suggests that the rearmost brake line (nearest the servo) does indeed supply the front brakes after passing through the PDWA, whilst the foremost line supplies the rear. This would make sense based on my knowledge of the master cylinder (I've just refurbed mine), as the rearmost portion of the master cylinder operates momentarily earlier than the foremost part. http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/series3/5_suspension_steering_brakes.pdf HTH, Mark.
  6. If you're still searching, I know someone who was selling one complete with the T/box. It is/was in Stoke on Trent though. I could make an enquiry to see if it is still for sale if you wanted me to? I have no idea of the condition, and I doubt whether the seller will either. She "inherited" it from her father, who has been taken into care due to health issues. let me know if you would like me to make an enquiry for you. Regards, Mark.
  7. Just a caveat, my solenoid would click, but the plunger could not have been operating normally as it still wouldn't start. I'm not saying yours isn't working, a click would usually suggest it is, but mine was clicking but still not working. Go figure?
  8. I've also had similar on my 200Tdi. Mine sat on my drive for a couple of years and I would start it and run it every couple of months or so. I used to crack the injector pipes off to bleed it but it seemed very random as to whether it would start or not. In the end I replaced the stop solenoid on the pump, it was working intermittently. No problems after that.
  9. Try a google search using "LR4x4.com" as part of the search criteria, often works better than the sites own search function. This one was started in 2009, is that it? regards, Mark
  10. I don't know if anyone has already mentioned it, I haven't read every reply in detail? If it was running on its own oil, how do you shut it off? Normally, under those conditions, they keep on running until you either block the air inlet, or they self destruct.
  11. Those symptoms sound like a faulty servo or vacuum pump. To test the brake servo, pump the pedal a few times with the engine off to get rid of any residual vacuum. Apply the brakes with the brake pedal then start the engine. If the servo is working, the pedal should sink further down toward the floor when the engine starts. If the pedal does not sink any further, either the servo is faulty or the vacuum pump is kaput. The vacuum pump could be tested by removing the hose from the servo and placing a thumb/finger over the end of the hose to check for vacuum.
  12. Hopefully this will help. https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/engine-torque-settings-12022-c.asp Regards, Mark
  13. That's not the press going wrong, it's Darwin's theory at work.
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