markyboy

I'm a bit dubious as it states "corresponding to". Is the name of the manufacturer visible anywhere on the seal?

Pretty sure someone in the members vehicles forum has done this. Worth doing a search. HTH. Mark

I think the one with a rubber/plastic cover over the rocker cover is the 300Tdi, although they may have put it on the 200Tdi in the Disco in an attempt to reduce engine noise. Mark

Hi Davey, A J reg with a turbo clearly visible would be a 200Tdi. This engine is capable of mpg in the mid twenties if driven considerately. If you cane it then yes, you could see 18mpg or possibly less. I can't really help much with other engines, I can only tell you what I've heard/read. V8's are notoriously thirsty, 15mpg would be considered good and as low as 8mpg when used hard/off-roaded. The old naturally aspirated engines, both diesel and petrol were innefficient and didn't return good fuel consumption figures. Hopefully an adult will be along soon who is better placed to help. Regards, Mark.

Hi Nick, The first thing I'd check is that your prop shaft UJ's are not seized/worn. Also check the handbrake is not grabbing, this can occur if the cable seizes. HTH. Mark.

Valve stem seals normally cause smoking on start up, during gear changes/on overrun (when very worn), and during prolonged periods of engine idling/slow running. They also leak oil during normal/fast engine running but it is not noticeable because the engine is running quickly and the oil is burnt and dispersed quickly enough for it not to be noticeable. HTH Mark.

Condensor?

Western is the man for this one. he has done a post which describes how to set the heater controls up. Have you done a search in the tech archive? Mark.

Only other thing I can think of then is head gasket failure between combustion chamber and water galleries pressurising the system. Would normally recommend a "sniffer" test but if you're having the head off then it should be evident. Mark.

Air locked due to the overheating problems you've experienced? Was the heater warm? If the stat was faulty I'd expect it to overheat, unless it's stuck open, but that wouldn't cause the system to pressurise per se. Incidentally, only 1/3 on the gauge seems low. Also, I don't think it's absolutely necessary to remove the head to check/replace the push rods. Removing the rockers should allow you to extract the push rods to check for bending. Hopefully an adult will be along soon to confirm/deny what I've said. Mark.

Warm them in a bucket of hot water prior to fitting too, might help.

I'd go for the stat being stuck open too. If it was stuck closed the car would overheat. The effect of the stat being stuck open means the water is continually circulating around the system and never gets chance to warm up. The radiator is efficient when it's in good condition, it has to be capable of cooling the engine in extremely hot conditions, therefore there is plenty of spare cooling capacity, especially at this time of year when ambient temperatures are low. HTH Mark.

Yep, that's the one I was referring to. I'd forgotten it was you that had posted it Luke. It proved an extremely useful little diagnostic tool for me. Mark.

Someone has done a thread on this and posted it in the tech archive. It's extremely useful and points out exactly what to check. Do a search for it. HTH Mark.

Hi Nick, I think the above is a bit of a Red Herring. The starter on your car is of the pre-engaged type and, therefore, cannot be stuck in the fywheel if you're not even getting a click when you turn the key. What you're talking about above is the old inertia type starter gear jamming in the flywheel ring gear. Rocking the car back and forward in gear will not have any effect on the starter on your car. What it may do though is to have an effect a dodgy connection somewhere. I would go through the procedure which mobyone has suggested to try and trace where the fault lies. HTH Mark.

Hi Neil, You've confirmed my worst fears, I was thinking it may not come off. I'll try it tonight then, if that fails, will try heating it up gently with a blow torch before giving up and cutting it off. As I said, I'll update the post later. Mark.

Bit of an update. i stripped it all down at the weekend, the nearside wheelbox is very stiff to turn. Cable seems OK, nicely greased and the grease hasn't hardened. Same for the gearbox on the wiper motor. Unfortunately I couldn't get the small grub screw out of the splined boss that the wiper arm attaches to. So it's had a liberal soaking in WD40 and I'll have another go at it tonight. Looks like a replacement wheelbox should do the trick. I'll keep you updated on the outcome. Mark.

Hi Western, Haven't cured it yet, it's a job for this weekend. I'll take the drive cable and motor off first, whilst they're off I'll check the wheel boxes for stiffness and repair/replace as necessary. Thanks for your help. Mark

Thanks Western, Knew you'd come up trumps. Bish, it was peeing it down with rain when I tried them, I've noticed before that a dry screen slows them down considerably. Thanks for all the help everyone. Mark.

Thanks for that Pete. It is not strictly true that they haven't been operated for 2 years. However, they have been used rarely during that period, probably 2 or 3 times at most. I'll get the motor off and check it. How easy is it to replace the rack and wheel boxes, any idea? Thanks for your help. Mark

My 92 Defender 90 200Tdi is an ongoing restoration project. I've completed most of the major tasks, such as chassis welding, and am now down to the last few "bits and pieces" such as lights etc, before getting her MOT'd and on the road. The problem I have is that the windscreen wipers are incredibly slow. I have done some work on the motor, renewed the park switch, bushed the drive pin on the drive wheel as there was a lot of play in it. I switched the wipers on yesterday and they just about crawled their way across the windscreen. I'm fairly sure the electricals are OK but I will check voltages to the motor etc. The wipers used to be better than they are currently but the truck has been sitting on my drive for about 2 years whilst I carry out the repair work Any thoughts on possible causes? Seized wheel boxes/drive cable? What sort of a job is it to remove and replace/lubricate the cable and wheel boxes? All suggestions gratefully received. Mark.

Hi Dom, welcome to the forum. 99% of people on here would probably advise against Britpart, they don't have a good reputation. However, you don't always have to go for the most expensive "genuine" option. Look for OEM next to the item that you're buying, (assuming you're internet shopping). It means that the parts are manufactured to Original Equipment standard, or are in fact manufactured by a company that sells Original Equipment parts to Land Rover. These parts are usually cheaper than genuine but of a reasonable quality. Happy Land Rovering. Mark.

Yep, the connections are as you describe. Mark

You should have a good clear gap all the way around. It's difficult to put an exact figure on it but I'm guessing you may have found the problem. Put a new one in or leave it out and run it to check it is OK. Also check the back of the rad to make sure all the fins are still there between the tubes. See attached picture of mine to see what it shouldn't look like.

Alan, Why did you replace the master cylinder in the first place? Was it due to the symptoms that you still have? I have had just these symptoms in the past, albeit not on a LR but a clutch is a clutch, and it was due to a worn pressure plate. There is also the infamous clutch release fork problem which is another possibility. Unfortunately both of the above require gearbox removal. HTH Mark.