markyboy

Not in my opinion. You could helicoil them. Or, if that's not deemed suitable in this safety crtical area, weld the holes up then re-drill and tap them. Obviously you would have to make sure to re-do them in the correct position, an engineering shop might be best to carry out the work. I personally don't see why helicoils would not be suitable but I stand to be corrected. HTH, Mark.

Ross, Here are some pics of my 200 Tdi Engine bay. Not sure how useful you'll find these as they weren't taken for what you have in mind. However, I could take some more for you later if you need them. HTH, Mark

I once saw an article where someone notched, bent and re-welded the 2 big pins (7/16ths or 5/8ths?) that pass through the door bottom from the door top. This gives the door top an "inward set" and prevents the problem you've got. Seemed to work quite well. HTH Mark

It sounds like the starter solenoid is not "throwing out". New starter or a strip/rebuild is on the cards by the sound of things. HTH.

Yes, the calipers would need to be changed as the vented discs are thicker. Mark.

You'd be very lucky if it did....

I'd also check the gauze filter on the end of the fuel pick up in the tank. I know you said it started after fitting the 200Tdi but it could be a coincidence. Also check the steel part of the pipes where they come out of the tank haven't corroded excessively, they can pin hole and draw air in. Mark.

Not sure tbh, an adult will be along to help hopefully. One thing though, if you use the Disco boxes I'm fairly sure the gearchange and Tbox levers won't line up with your Defender seat box. When I did it I re-used the Defender transmission and the engine mountings and brackets off the petrol lump that came out. I made an exhaust downpipe, a la Les's thread. Pretty simple and straightforward to do. HTH Mark.

1. Yes, it's a left hand thread, therefore rotate clockwise as you look at it from the front of the engine to undo it. 2. AFAIK only the crank pulley retaining bolt, but it wouldn't hurt on the IP bolts. I wouldn't put it on the water pump bolts as they can corrode and be a pig to get out. 3. Doesn't make much difference really. I'd do them after fitting the new belt and before starting the engine but I don't think it matters. HTH Mark Edit: Beaten to it by Gromit.

Have you got the injectors out? If not are you sure it's not just the compression you're coming up against? A diesel engine has extremely high compression and would be very difficult, if not impossible, to rotate by hand. HTH Mark.

Wear on the outside edge of the front passenger tyre is normally due to roundabouts. Slack wheel bearings would tend to induce more negative camber, which if anything, would cause the inside shoulder to wear. Just trying to say that the shoulder wear is probably a bit of a Red Herring IMO. Mark.

Not trying to teach my grandmother etc. but, in this case you will need to swap your engine mountings too. Mark.

Not trying to teach my grandmother to suck eggs, you have checked the bulbs I take it? Also worth checking the light units too. The Br*tpart ones are particularly bad, you tend to get the plastic bulb holder melting and the bulbs move away from the electrical contacts. As far as picking up a feed from elsewhere, you can only use the light feed so you will need to trace it back, there should be a connector block on the bulkhead. An adult will be along soon to tell you what colour wires to look for, I'm at work and don't have access to a wiring diagram. HTH Mark. You are right in thinking the front sand rear lights on the same side run off the same fuse, so if fronts are working that rules out the fuse.

"Pressure Relief Valve" Mark

Hi Thierry, Yes, sorry I should have made it clear. Pre-fill the fuel filter before fitting. Regards, Mark.

Could be a sticking handbrake cable causing the shoes to drag slightly, if that's the case backing the adjuster off may not cure it. Does the handbrake lever feel like it wants to spring back towards you when you release it? If it does it's a sign that the cable could be seized. Mark

Yes you could, you would just need to engage diff lock. Mark.

Try cranking the engine or turning it slightly, you could be on the lobe of the cam which means the diaphragm is already compressed and won't work. A tip to save yourself some work is to pre-fill the filter with diesel before fitting. If the injector pump still has fuel in it you could then start the engine and it should self bleed, albeit it may misfire a bit as the air is drawn through. HTH Mark

I have one without the locking handle. The centre bar doesn't come out though. Si, we need pics or are they in the "Members Vehicles" forum? Mark.

Pretty much what you've already concluded really. Braking efficiency boils down to (no pun intended), co-efficient of friction, the force exerted on the friction material and surface area. What the brakes do is convert the forward momentum (energy) of the vehicle into heat energy. On the road, the quicker you can dissipate the heat, the more consistent your brakes will be. As you say, the vents are there to dissipate the heat generated during braking through a larger surface area. Therefore, in a challenge type event, or any circumsatnce where you are not doing heavy braking for lengthy periods, or from high speed, all they do is act as a mud trap, which defeats the object of having them in the first place. My opinion, for what it's worth, would be to go with solid discs. HTH. Mark

Hi Tomas, If the valve seals are worn you normally get a puff of blue smoke during gearchanges and on deceleration. You also normally get a cloud of blue smoke on startup. The amount of smoke varies depending on how worn the valve seals are. If you've got the head off I'd replace the seals anyway, they go brittle and crack with age. It's a straight forward job with the head off, although you will require a valve spring compressor to do the job. HTH Mark.

Surely you'd need a spigot bush capable of taking the the R380 1st motion shaft but which will fit in the hole in the Isuzu Engine Flywheel? Unless you're very lucky and the Isuzu one has the correct internal diameter to fit the R380. Depending upon relative sizes, maybe you could get one or the other machined to fit. If not it shouldn't be too expensive to get one made at an engineering shop. Mark

I found that, even with the correct bit in an impact driver I couldn't budge them, they were rusted solid....! I ended up drilling the heads off then replacing the screws and captive nuts. I'd advise you to get them before you start just in case, don't believe they're expensive. Mark.

That looks fantastic. You should feel proud of yourself, and rightly so. Well done. Mark.