CountryGent

I won't pull the rod out ! I won't pull the rod out ! I won't pull the rod out ! I won't pull the rod out ! I won't pull the rod out ! I won't pull the rod out ! I won't pull the rod out ! I won't pull the rod out ! Just as well I asked! Thanks

Yep helps BIG time as I have learnt that that proper name is a push rod and that I most definitely won't be taking it out unless I want a lot of unnecessary work! Thanks

Hi, Whilst under the 110 fiting the new exhaust I happen to notice that the clutch slave cylinder looked loose.. So I went to tighten the cyclinder and the lower log was bolted in but the lug had cracked off so I removed both bolts and took the cylinder off. Now I had expe cted the whole assembly to come of as one Well here's what I was left with: Now because I didn't want to damage something I don't know about I have only had a gentle attempt at removing the shaft but seems very well attached - that is to say STUCK! Can any body tell me the right way to remove it without damaging and breaking something else that will need replacing.. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks CG

Yes the steering guards I will be looking at once I have the 110 roadworthy. I really like the spec and look for the Southdown tank guard - especialy the removable tow bar.. Thanks

Thanks for the information on the forces at play when using the recovery points. I intend to use the type of bumper level recovery points you mention as these seem to be the most useful. Cheers

Cool...I think what does the rating 8.8 relate to mean? Sorry but still trying to pick up the knowledge along the way..learning something new every day is good

Thanks for the advice

Ok as I plough through the seemingly endless bits on the 110 conversion I have a question that's not directly related to the work. The question is that I want to replace the tie/lashing eyes front and back with some recovery points. First thing that I want to know is a simple one, do the bolts have to be high tensile (I think that's what I mean )? Where do I get some if so and what size/length etc do they need to be? Then the next one is (based on my VERY limited criteria..currently 'they look' good) I am looking at fitting something like these: http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_SWIVEL_RECOVERY_EYES.html They seem good quality and a decent price which I always like! It is just a way of incentivising myself and preping the 110 ready for the winter so I can pull stranded BMW X5/X3 Audi Q7's etc out of ditches, drifts etc Thanks in advance CG

Well it's been a long time but I am going to start running out of time soon so I need to get cracking on finishing my 110 conversion... The question I have is as result of losing the pipes from the donor D1 when it went to the scrapyard in the sky..I thought I had put them some where safe but had left them in the truck! So I have fitted the power steering box and pump into the 110 but need to get new pipes made up. Not a problem, I have the lengths I want but I don't know what connections are needed on the pipes that connect to the steering box and the pump.. So what details do I need to give to give to resolve my stupidity Thanks in advance

Great Ralph just the kind of thing I'm after - the red & black covers look very similiar. I shall go and part with hard earned very shortly! Thanks for the help really appreciate CG

Ok I will now demonstrate my complete lack of technical terms and knowledge relating to engines. As I am doing my engine upgrade I am fitting new parts where required. When I removed either the starter motor or alternator and had what I can only describe as a terminal cover cap. I can't remember which it came off of bit it had certainly seen better days - literally fell apart when I took the leads off. I would like to replace but have no idea idea if it's specific to either the Starter Motor or Alternator or if some one added it as a way to protect the leads and terminals from the mud and crud that gets thrown up off road. Any help appreciated - the engine it came from is a '93 200Tdi Discovery engine. If it's not a Landie part a name of what ever the part is called would be great so I don't look like an idiot when I try and explain what I'm after in a motor factor Thanks CG

I have finally got the last few parts I need to fit the fly wheel casing I got from Les (thanks ) the gasket and the fly sheel seal. The fly wheel housing I have now is a N/A/TD and dry fits perfectly to the bell housing with one stud removed from where it doesn't have a hole - just by the clutch slave cylinder. However I have noticed that the drain hole rather than being at the bottom is on the back. I guess with the N/A or TD engines you would have space enough to fit a wading plug but as it's fitting onto the 200TDi Disco block there is virtually no gap. Does this mean that I need to fill the original hole and drill a new one on the bottom? If so what size are the drain/wading plugs and what size do I need to drill and tap? or is there a way of fitting a wading plug to the original hole once the engine is installed? Thanks in advance CG

Great pic thanks. Looks like a nice clean garage/workshop! Lucky you - I'd kill for a dry place like that rather than the mud pit that I like to call home Think as Megansfolly suggests I'll go the original route and see if I can my money back from SP! Cheers CG

Er that sounds much easier - especially if that means me NOT damaging the housing by drilling some thing out... Thanks

Great I guess I'll have to get the details from them as I din't get any Thanks for that

Hi Les, SHould have said it's the Disco1 200 TDi

Ok so I am doing the conversion on my 110 and have almost got to the stage of fitting my nice and as clean as it's going to get engine into the bay. I have taken the fly wheel housing off and cleaned it so I can offer it up to the bell housing. On placing it against the bell housing I was relieved to see that it will fit - yippee! How ever one of the studs - one that would go through the hole by the clutch slave cylinder if ther was one! won't go through for that reason. Does this mean that I need to drill a hole as if I do there is no way to put a nut on it as it would effectively be in the bell housing Then there is the small issue with the fact that there are only six studs around one edge (including the one with no hole to go into). How ever as part of the various parts I have bought to assist me once I start putting the engine in I have some parts from Steve P. Some of those bits are four fly wheel housing bolts with counter sunk heads. How ever I can't see any counter sunk holes but at the bottom of the housing there are four holes which could be used but again if I they are to be used do I have counter sink them? Or I am doing some thing completely wrong? Here are the four holes - Here the four bolts in 'place'? In case it hels any here's the housing front view - Any help greatly appreciated to save me going mad! Thanks in advance CG

Great. Thanks Ralph for the confirmation at least I know I now have a source for the brackets

Sounds great - I have the rubber mounts ordered so they will hopefully be in for me to collect tomorrow. The brackets would be good though. Will cross your hand with beer tokens. Thanks CG

Ok so there I am happily doing my conversion (see 110 conversion) and have just completed doing the suspension and lifted out the engine ready to mount on new STC434 mounts when they turn up. So as the engine is out I thought I'd take of the D1 mounts and put the mounts off my 2.5 N/A engine on. Well imagine my suprise when I couldn't find - I think after I took the engine out of the 110 I took them off then put them back so I knew where they were but forgot to take them off when I sold it! So can I modify the Disco mounts as they appear considerably different to the 110 mounts or am I going to have to buy a pair to replace the ones I er sold!? If I do have to buy a pair...whose got a pair that they want sell me at a reasonable price? Thanks in advance CG

I'll see how I do with the chains and if it looks like I'm going to do any damage will come over to you for the rings. Cheers